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Cyclone Manifold Porting Ported

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Freerevving

15+ Year Contributor
499
5
Feb 12, 2008
Houston, Texas
Fixing The 5-10 cfm problem....

Definitely flows a lot more than a stock manifold now

...rough cut (sorry about the crappy camera)
 

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Thats awesome. My cyclone has been sitting in my garage for over a year and I want to put it on but I refuse to until I port the thing out. I dont want any lose of cfm or top end power, but I want the claimed 30ft/lbs torque gains that Ive heard other people get.

What did you use to port it. How did you manage to get so deep inside the runners.
All I have is a simple little hand dremel and I dont think Id be able to reach that deep in there.

So the trick is porting both runners? Ive heard some people only port match the gasket part, and port out the secondary runners. Looks good though, did you run this mani before porting it, or will this be your first time putting it on... I wondering the actual gains you get...
 
I'll be leaving it open for now.... then I'll be using an adjustable shift light, a dakota vacuum canister, and a fuel pressure selenoid... just missing the dakota canister right now

Using 1/4" shank mandrels... won't fit in a Dremel... but I have 8" long mandrels

Using sanding drums and flapper wheels.... I decided I'm going to do this quickly as I'm going for performance and not looks

The openings (where the gaskets are) have the most restriction... the bends hold quite a lot of volume and don't need much work, but it's a lot smaller where the mating sufaces are...

most of the work was done to the section that bolts to the head... I gave it a nice even taper from the smaller/flapper ports, to the head ports
 
More pics...

the first three are before and after of the U bends...

the last one is the machined butterfly valves...
 

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finally done more pictures after this

flappers have been sprayed with adhesion promoter and nothing else... to prevent rust

Also, below, I ported out my JDM elbow... which bolts up to the 60mm 1g throttle body, but has a bigger opening than USDM elbows

I bought rubberized paper gasket from O'Reilly's (thick and A PAIN TO USE!) and after cutting it I sprayed it heavy with copper gasket (more pics coming)
 

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I'm sorry, but this manifold blows IMHO. Just don't see why people waste their time with it.
 
In case anyone was wondering about how to do the gaskets... take a look at the pictures
 

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I'm sorry, but this manifold blows IMHO. Just don't see why people waste their time with it.

I'm sorry, but front wheel drive sucks IMO. Just don't see why people waste their time with it

Maybe I should just dump 10 gallons of Seafoam down my intake:D
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Ready for Paint (almost)
 

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I'm sorry, but front wheel drive sucks IMO. Just don't see why people waste their time with it

Maybe I should just dump 10 gallons of Seafoam down my intake:D
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Ready for Paint (almost)

HAHA nice one. I really liked my cyclone, I had the secondaries working. It made a good difference over the usdm manifold.
 
I'm sorry, but this manifold blows IMHO. Just don't see why people waste their time with it.
It has a bad rap because hardly anyone would make it work correctly. If it's installed correctly, it's awesome. More low end power with identical up top is awesome for a heavy DD 4 banger, especially with a big turbo and low compression engine.

Think about it man.
 
It has a bad rap because hardly anyone would make it work correctly. If it's installed correctly, it's awesome. More low end power with identical up top is awesome for a heavy DD 4 banger, especially with a big turbo and low compression engine.

Think about it man.


thanks... I'm hoping that with the smoother flow, and opened up secondaries, that it'll have even more grunt ... but it should have WAY more top end
To add to the torque and drivability, I'm also using 8.5:1 compression and 264 HKS cams
 
The difference it makes:
My arm fell off that opens the butterflies.
In second gear I roll to 3000rpm, mash the gas it feels like I have shitload of lag.

With the arm attached, same thing roll to 3000rpm and mash the gas, all four tires start barking and spinning hit 3rd they bark again.

So yeah it makes a hell of difference when properly setup.

This is at 30psi by the way.
 
thanks... I'm hoping that with the smoother flow, and opened up secondaries, that it'll have even more grunt ... but it should have WAY more top end
I don't know about the top end thing man, as far as I understand, the top end flow is the exact same as the USDM manifold. The porting will help, but don't expect a night and day difference up top.
 
I don't know about the top end thing man, as far as I understand, the top end flow is the exact same as the USDM manifold. The porting will help, but don't expect a night and day difference up top.

Having more low end grunt than stock JDM: I'm hoping

Top end : that's a given

you don't realize how much metal was removed... the secondaries were worked pretty heavily and the shaft for the flapper is ground down (huge restriction). Just the work done on the primaries is enough to make a huge difference.

Unported, the top end has less flow than USDM manifold... much more than 1cfm... IIRC it's about 36cfm less between all cylinders

A night and day difference would only be seen if the head can use the extra flow
 
almost ready for clearcoat

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Wow, that's looking really nice. Now that you've done yours are you up for porting one for anyone else? I have been wanting to slap one on my car but haven't felt like going through the trouble of doing a nice port job on it, yours looks awesome, let me know if you're up for doing one for me.
 
Wow, that's looking really nice. Now that you've done yours are you up for porting one for anyone else? I have been wanting to slap one on my car but haven't felt like going through the trouble of doing a nice port job on it, yours looks awesome, let me know if you're up for doing one for me.

I'm ready my email is [email protected]


Well, as nice as the manifold looks, I'm very picky with color coordination under the hood

The pictures don't show that the manifold is about 3 shades darker than the valve cover... the valve cover is perfect IMO... So the manifold takes away from the color scheme, leaving it with a slight hint of "cheesy"

So, major PITA, I'm taking the color off the manifold and going with something more elaborate... probably bright silver (semi-chrome) with anodized electric blue highlights. Valve cover is staying the same, except for polished lettering and clearcoat

on my way to buy some industrial stripper
 
Nice. I'm also looking into Cyclone manifold as well. Something about actuating butterfly valves turn me on. Have you done any testing yet? The previous thread had slight porting as stated and they gained like 5 cfm over a 1g. Yours seems to be very heavily ported so I'm interested in the gains.
 
Nice. I'm also looking into Cyclone manifold as well. Something about actuating butterfly valves turn me on. Have you done any testing yet? The previous thread had slight porting as stated and they gained like 5 cfm over a 1g. Yours seems to be very heavily ported so I'm interested in the gains.

5cfm per cylinder? that's pretty good for a light port... I'm not going to bother testing it... I took some very general measurements while porting it, and the factory castings are pretty irregular to begin with... so certain runners were cut more than others (but they were all cut heavily at the narrows) and now it's more evened between cylinders... I'm sure there are probably still differences, but they should be small. If I had to guess I'd say there's 15cfm more per runner, maybe more... but guessing really doesn't mean anything. The only results I'm really interested in are on the street, dyno and track. People are going to be suprised how easily an car with a flatter power curve will do the quarter mile
 
Are you gona run your car with the stock intake at the track and then bolt on cyclone intake to see if there are any gains?
 
Are you gona run your car with the stock intake at the track and then bolt on cyclone intake to see if there are any gains?

nah, all my USDM intakes are gone... and intakes are a pain in the ass to take off with the engine in the car... that's why I'm concentrating on paint now

And because I can't leave well enough alone...
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damn it took enough just to get it back to this point... But now I could retry with the anodized blue... or do something different... or leave it like this...
but I decided to go "OEM Plus" with the manifold, so more taping will be involved:thumb:

p.s. paint color suggestions are welcome
 
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