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General Current options for custom chip.

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MidLifeCriTSIs

Proven Member
50
25
Mar 22, 2021
Salina, Kansas
Hello friends I have done a lot of research on what my options on for my build.

Quick history, I bought the car, a 1995 Talon TSW AWD with a spun bearing and was going to just do a stock rebuild. Got an entire 2.3 stroker set up (crank/rods/pistons) and a big 16g Turbo and 600cc injectors for less then $700.

Now I am looking for options on how to get this combo to run like "stock." I have no goals for increasing the power at all past what my set up can as close to stock as possible. I wont be looking to upgrade. I wont be looking to raise the boost. I wont be looking to "tune" it for more power.

After reading about MAFT Pro, SAFC, DSMlink, Evoscan, I have come to the conclusion what would suit me best is to get my 1995 Ecu chipped to run like stock but compensate for the injectors.
I noticed the dsmchips.com and Keydiver chips seem to longer be around and this is what almost every post refers to.



Is there a source to get this done still or am I stuck with having to use some tuning software? Almost all the posts on the subject that I could think of to search with different keywords are either super old, or referring to Keydiver.
 
Just put in some 450s and run it as a stock car if you want to keep it at actuator boost level. Maybe put in a 1g CAS for some timing control. If you're bent on using the 600s you could put in a 399 evo maf to cancel them out mostly, then a afpr to fine adjust that. But I wouldn't recommend it assuming they're lazy. Stock evo 560s would be more appropriate. Maft's are cheap used, so are safc 5-knobs if you can find one. Burning chips is pretty dated so I'm not sure where to even start with that. DSMLink is the all end all, but if you're keeping it stock like you're saying none of this is necessary.
 
Unless its a budget issue whats wrong with ecmlink? You don't have to keep a laptop in the car nor do you have to fiddle with it constantly. Be as conservative as you like and let it do its thing. It's a great diagnostic tool also if you truly don't want to use its tuning capabilities to its limit.
 
My original goal was a Stock rebuild, and to replace everything possible with new parts. I literally got the un assembled stroker motor from a shop that was closing down. I could not of bought stock crank/rods/pistons/block than cheaper for what I got the 2.3. The 600cc injectors came with the Big 16g turbo (I got this for 100$ instead of spending 100$ rebuilding my t25) and also was not part of my original plans. The injectors are in fact stock evo pink top injectors. I ran them through to check and they are 600cc injectors. SO maybe a good choice for me is looking into the Evo MAF and a SaFC to dial it in perfectly. I do have a new Wideband Sensor that I will install.

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I assumed burnt chips were getting old as its damn near impossible to find any info about them.




It has nothing to do with a budget limit. I have no limit on my budget for this car. Im currently at just under 5000 including buying the car and EVERY thing is new from ARP hardware everywhere to every sensor and accessory. My goal is to rebuild this car to be as close to "new" as possible for a car with 60k miles on it. My current goal is not to modify at all, but in fact to create it to be a clean/good running "stock" car for atleast a year.

Ecmlink would be something Id like to get and learn, but not for a long time.
 
I used to do them, but 1g only. I kinda quit doing them because customer support got to be too expensive. I had a customer that the car was super lean, so I sent him 3 chips trying stuff, never could get it right, swore up and down his injectors were good. So I finally had him send me his maf and injectors, hooked it up on my car, and find out not only did he have smaller injectors than he thought, but one was plugged up. So he gets a good set, and "it runs perfect, thanks" So now i'm out all this time over an issue that wasn't my fault. And this kinda stuff happened several times, so I kinda stopped trying. I can probably try to do a 2g if you really wanted, but it won't be free.
 
Hey bud I noticed there is a guy on Ebay currently advertising it for 1g chips only. Is there a reason this is done on 1g only now? Again my goal was to get in the car and have it be 99% "stock" even tho I have the 2.3 and the Big 16g. It seems after reading up on evo 8 Maf and the Evo Injectors almost all the posts are still suggesting Ecmlink. I think Ecmlink is awesome and obviously has been insanely popular when I was a kid on these forums over a decade ago, and are still very popular now. I just have 0 experience using it and have my hands pretty full doing a complete rebuild from the tires up on the 1995. I have been documenting and video recording every thing I touch and do for a youtube channel I am creating. SO between full rebuild/video editing/my normal daily life diving into a full hands on tuner seems like the wrong move.

I am just hoping to avoid going full on custom and learning/using a full Tuner for something that I have zero plans with actually tuning. What I would like is to just have my boost set at a number that works as close to stock as possible with my injectors and 2.3 and Big 16g. I obviously have a wideband but my goal was to use it to ensure I am running well, not as a tool to increase my boost.
 
No offense, but I'm not following the strategy here. You have no budget limit but you keep buying stuff that doesn't meet your build criteria because it's cheap. You're buying a bunch of go-fast parts for a stock build. I'm just confused. If you're going to have any modified part on your car it needs to be ecmlink. It's so helpful with diagnostics that it's worth every penny even on a stock build. Everyone uses ecmlink and many people can help you if your car has an issue. Virtually nobody uses chips because there is absolutely no benefit over emlink.
 
No offense taken at all. This is the reason I frequent the forums so that something maybe I think is obvious, can be scrutinized :)

Let me try to clarify a little bit. The car has 60k Miles. I was going to buy it and fix it (stock rebuild) and try to flip it. I came to realize that if I did flip it, I would likely just want to buy another one and that is is unlikely that I ever find a DSM in nicer condition. So I decided to just go all out, ignore my initial budget and just make it as new as possible. A friend sent me a number to call for a shop a few hours away that deals mostly in DSM's that was going out of business. I called the guy looking for a good 2g oil pan that was not smashed and rusty. The guy offered me the entire package at a price that basically covers JUST THE MACHINE WORK. I got the block, with all ARP hardware, with all the machine shop work done. I got the crank/rods/pistons Eagle brand, in like new condition. Just a stock set of rods/pistons/crank cost more then what I paid. He threw in the Injectors/Turbo for 100$ more. The motor in my car spun a bearing and badly. The entire oiling system is FILLED with metal shavings. So id need to spend money to rebuild the t25 anyways.


Just because I got this rotating assembly, and slightly bigger turbo does not mean im trying to crank the boost, race the car, or push anything past stock. I know that something is going to need to compensate for the larger injectors/turbo, but again I am not looking (modify) the car. if the ONLY POSSIBLE answer is to run a 100% custom "tune" to get my car to run like stock then okay I will just go ahead and buy Link to go with my 95 ECU.

However there are a lot posts like this:

"The theory behind using an Evo MAF and 560's in a 2G is that the injectors are roughly 20% larger than stock, and the Evo MAF reads roughly 20% more airflow than the stock 2g MAF. In a sense, they basically cancel each other out (kind of like running a 2g MAF and 550 injectors in a 1G)."

"Back in the day it was semi common for guys to run a 2g maf with 550cc injectors without an afc/chip/tuning. The idea was that the 2g maf reported ~20% less air than the engine was taking in, and the 550cc injectors put in 20% more fuel than the ecu though it was."

"Match the your injector choice as close percentage wise as you can get and it will be a great little street set up. Like i said in a previous post just be aware of what fuel pressure you are running and what fuel pressure the injectors you chose are rated at, then run the numbers. Im not familiar with the evo maf, but if it reads say 20% higher than find injectors on your set up that will flow as close to 20% more as possible."
 
Hey bud I noticed there is a guy on Ebay currently advertising it for 1g chips only. Is there a reason this is done on 1g only now? Again my goal was to get in the car and have it be 99% "stock" even tho I have the 2.3 and the Big 16g. It seems after reading up on evo 8 Maf and the Evo Injectors almost all the posts are still suggesting Ecmlink. I think Ecmlink is awesome and obviously has been insanely popular when I was a kid on these forums over a decade ago, and are still very popular now. I just have 0 experience using it and have my hands pretty full doing a complete rebuild from the tires up on the 1995. I have been documenting and video recording every thing I touch and do for a youtube channel I am creating. SO between full rebuild/video editing/my normal daily life diving into a full hands on tuner seems like the wrong move.

I am just hoping to avoid going full on custom and learning/using a full Tuner for something that I have zero plans with actually tuning. What I would like is to just have my boost set at a number that works as close to stock as possible with my injectors and 2.3 and Big 16g. I obviously have a wideband but my goal was to use it to ensure I am running well, not as a tool to increase my boost.
As I understand that the car is a 2.3 with a16g (stock boost level) and you are not planning to make more power, no racing, etc. Then a wideband, a SAFC and EVO injectors would be fine just for driving the car and it's the cheapest/easiest way. You even don't need a EVO MAF if you have a SAFC. That's like my daily 2g (2.3, low boost, 510cc injectors, SAFC, Wideband, boost gauge/controller). I have a ECMLink on my 2g but I don't used it to tune. It's just for logging purpose.
 
I have a ECMLink on my 2g but I don't used it to tune. It's just for logging purpose.
That's like using a ps5 to only adjust the settings on a TV before plugging in your NES. :]

The snag with the safc or evo maf thing is it puts you on a more aggressive part of the timing table, which is already aggressive on a 2g. Hence the 1g CAS mod. 'Link is the all end all, you're basically playing god with the ecu and nothing else is needed aside of a WB. No aftermarket gauges, nothing. But again, if you're just using the 16g at actuator psi with no interest of modding, just put in some 450s and treat the car as completely stock. I don't see a need for anything different from the day it drove off the dealer lot.
 
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I believe thats a genuine 16g.

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That's like using a ps5 to only adjust the settings on a TV before plugging in your NES. :]
Totally no offense but I can't 100% agree with this. Our ECU is actually as old as SAFC :p:)
The snag with the safc or evo maf thing is it puts you on a more aggressive part of the timing table, which is already aggressive on a 2g. Hence the 1g CAS mod. 'Link is the all end all, you're basically playing god with the ecu and nothing else is needed aside of a WB. No aftermarket gauges, nothing. But again, if you're just using the 16g at actuator psi with no interest of modding, just put in some 450s and treat the car as completely stock. I don't see a need for anything different from the day it drove off the dealer lot.
And I agree this part, he can run like that, too. but maybe you are missing the part that we are actually talking about a 2.3, not 2.0. With my experience 450s/92 pump gas on 2.3 get maxed around 1 bar or so. That's the reason why I run 510cc.
 
Yeah i think i had it in the early 2000s, when i swapped a non turbo to turbo on my old panda, 560s gm translator, palm, all the basics i was learning then.
 
I am still running a 25 years old 5 knob SAFC and SITC on my 2g, working great. And still have a couple of palms w/ a dead battery and a cable for 1g, too.

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