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ECMlink Cruise Log Review - Pre WOT

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TCB91GSX

Proven Member
258
240
Jan 11, 2021
Denver, Colorado
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
No
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
Yes

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing?
Yes

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: NGK - 1 month
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK-BPR6ES/.028


5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: 130
Cylinder 2: 142
Cylinder 3: 136
Cylinder 4: 136

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: No
Throttle Cable: No
TPS: Yes
BISS: No

7). Compression ratio
8.5:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): N/A
Car running: N/A

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 37
Injector Size (cc/min): 750

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: Innovate MTX-L
Calibration Date: N/A

13). Type of fuel
Type: 91 Octane
Percent of Ethanol: 10%

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes - Thanks to Scott Laird for the many posts he submitted.



Hey yall,

Feel like I have ECMlink set up pretty well after receiving it fairly recently. New to the program but have been watching videos and reading a ton of material.

This log was completed after I did a closed loop idle/cruise log and made some MAF comp adjustments using the template then smoothing it out a bit. Nothing wrong, everything went very smooth. Was hoping for a once over to see if there is anything glaring that I should be concerned about or do before I start romping on the car to do some WOT tuning.

Thank you all for your time!!
 

Attachments

  • log.2021.03.27-02.elg
    398.6 KB · Views: 30
Keep adjusting tps to read zero% at idle and 0.63v.

There is something really wrong with your wideband and narrowband setup. Neither sensor seems to be making sense. Double check that they are set up correctly and wired to appropriate pins.
 
WB02 is set on the EGR temp pin into the ECU.

Can you elaborate on how they do not make sense ?

WB doesn't kick on until 30 secs into this log, that is how it is set up in my settings. Happened to start the log before firing the car.


Ill continue to adjust the TPS to get it 0% at idle.
 
Updated log with TPS adjusted, I manually adjusted it and set it at .63 volts then adjusted my throttle cable which read 84% on the stream, while adjusting it did not feel like I could move the bracket anymore to get closer to 100%.

I think the car is on 13 PSI right now, I am trying to take it easy and get things right.

Thanks everyone for your time!
 

Attachments

  • log.2021.04.07-02.elg
    614.3 KB · Views: 30
Injectors are rated at 43psi base pressure. Since you are running at 37psi base pressure it will be much less than 750cc. You can see this in the LTFT Lo, the ECU wants to add 12% more fuel. Set global to -36% and reset your trims and drive around to see what the new fuel trims are. At idle you will probably run rich so adjust the deadtimes to bring the STFT closer to 0%.
 
I did not have LTFT Lo on my displayed values. If I add it to the displayed values while it is bold, does that mean the log has the information ?
 
I did not have LTFT Lo on my displayed values. If I add it to the displayed values while it is bold, does that mean the log has the information ?
Yes, that is correct. Bolded on the right side in captured values mean it is logging even if not displayed. So as long as it is logged any viewer can choose to display it or not. Everyone can set their displayed values differently. Just a matter of preference there.

You should look into getting a MAP sensor so you can log boost. That will help with tuning. Under boost and openloop you are kind of lean and getting some counts of knock. You need to bump up the MAF Comp sliders a few % in those lean areas. Don't do this yet until you fix your global. Fixing your global might help correct this issue.
 
Last edited:
Moving my global down definately helped my fuel trim, it’s closer to 4%. Working on deadlines/STFT now. Should I move my global down further to get closer on my LTFT Lo?

I noticed while driving that Link isn’t picking up my AFR’s on my Innovate MTX-l on the richer side of the spectrum, double checked log works and reset to default (they were the same), then I tried it as an LC1 vs Linwideband output and was further off. So I reset the min/max values under the linwideband box from the log then calibrated the 02 sensor, in open air, and it’s still just all over the place ... I know others use that set up and have success, I’m curious what y’all’s values for min/max voltage and min/max lambda.
Last thing I have to check is how it’s wired I know the yellow wire goes to the EGR pin in the ECU, but not sure where the ground is.. so I’ll be pulling it apart to see if it’s grounded to the ECU or otherwise...
I’ve read conflicting info on O2 ground, some say ECU common, direct to battery and body ground for various reasons. I think I’ll likely go to the ECU as I saw that’s the most common one..
 
I matched these settings to the one in link and it’s still incorrect.
Should I have this set up as Lambda or AFR ?

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I have my wideband ground connected to the ecu chassis ground with that spot then connected to the battery. You shouldn't have to use linear wideband. It should work on the lc1 paramters.
 
Should I expect the numbers to read exactly the same in a log on link as the gauge ? I’ve been taking video holding the computer next to the gauge then reviewing the video and that is how I’m investigating that they are off.
 
I have my wideband ground connected to the ecu chassis ground with that spot then connected to the battery. You shouldn't have to use linear wideband. It should work on the lc1 paramters.
I’m not exactly following the second part of the wb ground, so if you could clarify I would appreciate! Are you saying that you have the ground connected via the ECU ground (101/106) then subsequently grounded to the battery ?
 
Blue wire is the ground from the wb. Yellow is on pin 15 for EGR.
Looks like some other items are grounded are on the same thing, which I’ve read is a no-no...

Should I move the ground to the next bolt over as my chassis ground or should I splice it into the ECU chassis ground ?

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If anyone finds this,

I had an older style MTX-L, not the MTXL-L plus that is currently sold, which they changed the plugs in the sensor cable. I am unsure if that had anything to do with my log readings. Steve at Innovate was super helpful in answering questions, he said the only difference is the MTX-L can run 4.2 and 4.9 sensors, the MTX-L Plus can only run 4.9 sensors.

Rather than dealing with the linearwideband setting in ECMLink, I switched to the LC2 and wired per Jafromobiles youtube and it works perfect. I am sure the MTX-L plus works fine under LC1 parameters as mentioned prior in this thread, but I only wanted to complete all of that wiring once and kill any guess work.
 
My tuner also had me move my gauge ground to the same ground that the ECU is, which was the ECU bracket. My numbers matched after I did that. They were only off a little bit but should read exactly the same. Thanks to @95GSXracer for that good advice.
 
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