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Crankwalk :'(

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CoreyGSX

Probationary Member
25
0
May 30, 2012
West Chicago, Illinois
Well i just had my first experince with Crankwalk :(

From what i understand all i need is a new 6 bolt block and crank and we should be good again correct?

And then while im at it i should just rebuild the bottom end of the engine so are there any suggestions? anybody running a current setup they would recommend?
 
I don't know to be honest. I was so upset when it happened I just had it towed to my mechanic. so I need a 6 bolt block, new rods and pistons and a new crankshaft? any suggestions on brands.
 
So how do you know its really "crankwalk" and not just spun bearing or something? And your "mechanic" is just saying crap like that to get more money out of you?? What actually happened to make you think its what you think it is??

A stock 6bolt will hold upwards of 500 wheel horse if properly build and/or well taken care of and not neglected on a good tune.
 
one i trust my mechanic, i've been going to him forever. but i hooked up my scanner and it's throwing a code for the crank. and now i've actually went under and moved the shaft. it's less than an 1/18th of an inch a play.

i've decided 6 bolt block, manley forged pustons, eagle forged rods, also gonna bore it out to 2.4l then the 2.4 crank obviously.

I'll also need a 6 bolt flywheel and oil pump any recommendations there?
 
Cool story. You've got a '98, if it's a late model '98 it's a split thrust bearing and doesn't walk like the early model 7-bolts. Sometimes a CPS will go bad, you should check end play and if it's good replace the $80 sensor that failed (or isn't plugged in) instead of spending $1k or more in a bottom end build.

Or it is actually CW and you should build the bottom end. Good luck "boring it out to 2.4" because that's not how it works. Read. ---> 4g Engine List

:dsm:
 
I thought crankwalk is rare. As for the build man that just depends on what your aiming for
 
CoreyGSX said:
one i trust my mechanic, i've been going to him forever. but i hooked up my scanner and it's throwing a code for the crank. and now i've actually went under and moved the shaft. it's less than an 1/18th of an inch a play.

i've decided 6 bolt block, manley forged pustons, eagle forged rods, also gonna bore it out to 2.4l then the 2.4 crank obviously.

I'll also need a 6 bolt flywheel and oil pump any recommendations there?
Click to expand...

Lol, I'll guarantee it's not the dreaded "crank walk.". You plugged in a scanner and it said "Danger! Danger! Crank Walk Immanent!"?

You really should've done a tiny bit of research and saved yourself some money. Since you didn't, maybe do some research on doing the swap instead of just throwing random crap in the air and going with it.

Crank walk... Jeesh... On a side note, you the 6-bolts walk too right?
 
well this was a good lesson to learn. i havent spent any money yet. i did want to swap to a six bolt eventually just figured this up'd my timeline. looks like im going to the mechanic later and seeing what is actually up. thank you to the people on this website who are actually looking out for other people. the tones of the comments where a little harsh though. this is my first dsm and a learning period obviously.
 
BIGBLAZE79 said:
Man I rebuilt my 7Bolt and its been runnin awsome for over 20K miles so far. Pushin 27Psi, over 400WHP and ran [email protected] in the quarter.

You can rebuild a 7 bolt!
Click to expand...

No one stated you could not rebuild a 7 bolt?!?!?! But you should not rebuild a block that has previously walked, as once it walks it will always walk (if not immediately, it will)

As for the "crankwalk" theory, just check it out and measure your crank play. Crankwalk is pretty rare, but can happen on any vehicle. Check end play, and check out your sensor then report back.
 
Sounds like your trustworthy mechanic is trying to make a quick buck off of you. Just cause the car is throwing the crank sensor code, doesn't mean you got crankwalk.

Check for end play and compare to the factory limits then you will know for sure if you are crankwalking or not.
 
I agree with most comments here. You cannot diagnose crankwalk by an obdII scanner.. Most likely the crank sensor took a shit. Which could be a pain in the ass to change since you have to pull the timing cover off but its nowhere near the hassle of having to do an engine swap. I would suggest not taking the car to your "mechanic" and learn to do things yourself. It will pay off in the long run.. There is tons and tons of info on this site as well as VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions.

Also as Gofer stated, the 97/99 7 bolts have a revised thrust bearing which is supposed to help prevent such thing. If you're dead set its "crankwalk" have your mechanic get one of these > http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/97591-how-do-you-check-crankshaft-end-play.html#post151703279 and follow those steps. I believe the acceptable clearances are .002-.007 please someone correct me if Im wrong.

A 70 dollar crank sensor is way better thank a 1k+ engine build. .
 
Well the story goes as this... i was driving to napa auto parts to pick up some vacuum lines but anyway, i came to a stop and then took a right turn and started accelerating. as i was at about 4k and was about to shift, i popped the clutch and the RPM's slammed down to zero and the car hasn't started since then. i engage the clutch and turn the key and it trys to crank but it can't. i got it towed to my mechanic and he had me turn my wheel full crank left and reached under and had me engage the clutch and release it. he popped up and said i had crankwalk. he plugged in the scanner also and it threw the code for the powertrain for the crank. it is a 98 GSX( it has the half black and grey dash) so i believe it is a late model. so it could be that my thrust bearing is broken and the sensor for the crank is bad/not plugged in?
 
Still could be the crank sensor. Just measure the play and check out the crank sensor and report back to us. I mean by all means if your dead set on replacing the motor, then do it. But I would much rather spend $70 than a couple grand. . .
 
Oh, im not dead set on replacing the motor. i actually want to get the car running and keep it as my DD while i build a 6 bolt engine outside the car then when complete swap it all out. I'm hoping that it didn't walk, i'd rather replace the sensor.
 
So i believe i found the source of my problem. My BS belt shredded and destroyed my CPS.
 
And that is why these guys have been giving you a hard time about cw. :tease: all in fun man.

Time to do a balance shaft elimination. :D Maybe look into changing to a different sensor like a 1g cas in a 2g.
 
Yeah, i see that now. Thanks to everybody on here. And sorry for my ignorance. This is honestly the first car i have ever worked on. and now that i read my old posts i want to hit myself. i really can't believe that i would post such things LOL like i said thanks again to everybody.
 
No that isn't crank walk. Someone forgot to put in the thrust bearings. :tease:

Pull the pan and look. If the thrust bearing is chewed up along with the crank surface then it is crank walk. Honestly it really can't be but 2 different things. no thrust bearing installed or it is crank walk. That is so bad I bet the crank even got into the block. :notgood:
 
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