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Crankwalk! What do I do?

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svave

20+ Year Contributor
104
0
Sep 10, 2002
Alrigth guys. I bet there is tons of information about this out there, but I just do not have time to read all of it throught, so I hoped someone could help me with this.

I have a 1997 Eclipse Spyder GST with about 78800 Miles on it. I have the luck to have crankwalk. I am now wondering what is the best way to solve it? Should I rebuild the engine, or should I just go to a junk yard - get a 1G block and put it on? I want this car to be strong since I am planning to upgrade the turbo and such and I am taking it to Sweden in December when I'm moving back home.

Please let me know what would be the best. I am new to this and need all the help I can get.

Thanks,

Jonathan Fransson
http://swedishgstspyder.tripod.com
 
Would it work to buy it at a junkyard or should I get a brand new one? Also, why do people get the 1 G block? What is the difference?

Thanks
 
I think the wiring harness is somewhat different. Talk to the guys who have done the 7-to-6-bolt swap and youll get all the info you need. The 1g (pre-5/92) were 6 bolt blocks which are not known for developing crankwalk like your 7-bolt did. It is speculated that Mitsubishi messed up in the production of their cranks but have yet to claim responsibility.
 
91TalonTSiCT said:
I think the wiring harness is somewhat different. Talk to the guys who have done the 7-to-6-bolt swap and youll get all the info you need. The 1g (pre-5/92) were 6 bolt blocks which are not known for developing crankwalk like your 7-bolt did. It is speculated that Mitsubishi messed up in the production of their cranks but have yet to claim responsibility.

Mitsubishi went cheap on the thrust bearings in post 92 cars. The weaker thrust bearings led to crankwalk.
 
Jebus[tuning] said:
Mitsubishi went cheap on the thrust bearings in post 92 cars. The weaker thrust bearings led to crankwalk.

There's a few theories out there .. like the oil squirters in the 2g block weren't any good, cranks weren't properly machined, or even the material the block was made of was too weak and the block would stretch too much when bolting down the main studs and head studs slightly deforming it. Nobody knows what the actual cuase is, however I replaced my bearings so if it was indeed a weak thrust bearing then I shouldn't have any problems in the future. If it is the oil squirters or the block itself then it will come I'm sure.
 
if you are looking for reliability use a 1gen block and to make wiring easier just use the head you have now it will bolt right on. wiring will be a lot easier. as for a junk yard motor i have had good luck with those in the past. but its like a scratch and win ticket whether you get a really good one or not most junk yards runs test on the motors befoer they sell them. aka oil pressure will it crank. the basics. you can always have the junk yard one rebuilt and bored a little over and get a stroker kit. haveing the short block rebuilt will leave you many more options.

2nd gen crank walk is more likely to happen quicker if you got a manual with a heavy duty pressure plate. whether you are going to get crank walk or not, thats like another scratch and win ticket. some get it some don;t

the reason for it, is best answered by a politican avoid the topic completely
 
So what is the best bet for me????

Almost everytime I turn left with the car, and then put the clutch down to shift gears, the clutch goes really weak and down to the floor.....Is that bad crankwalk? Should I get a 6 bolt 1g block??
 
the one 1g block would be best, but replacing the bearings is a pretty cheap fix that could work for ever i would try that first if that doesn't work then go to the 1 6bolt block
 
your definition of high pressure may not be the same as mine, 2900 is high to me, 2600 mild, 2100 normal

you could always bring a junk yard motor back with you if you are not coming back to US

they are pretty cheap
 
yea exactly ... just make sure to have the crank cleaned up and matched properly with the new bearings. bearings will be like $75 and cleaning up the crank won't be much either.

I'd pick up a 6 bolt block in the meantime and build it up and if the 7 bolt does go again then do the swap. This will buy you time to get the 6 bolt built as you shouldn't have problems with crankwalk again for a while ( if you do at all even ).
 
take a look at the crank sensor to see if it's being damaged yet. Also measure the endplay and let us know what you find. If the sensor is not yet damaged and endplay is not too badly out of spec then just swap the bearings. If the sensor is damaged as well then most likely there's more damage then just some crankwear and bearings.
 
Ive heard that Mitsu wont cover the repair because they claim it's the aftermarket clutches that are putting wear on the bearing, but a whole bunch of stock clutched cars get crankwalk as well, so is there something that can legally be done to force a recall??
 
nope you can't force a recall or else it would be out already. there is no recall because there is still alot of people who don't get crank walk. you just hear the people who get it complain more loudly than the people who don't. i say when your motor goes ship to mitsubishi with a note on the box saying that you piss on there grave and make them dispose of it, be the way have no return address
 
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