2G Crankwalk by machine shop

[A Sharp]

So I'm rebuilding my early 7 bolt. I had my crank ground undersized and I just noticed that the machine shop also resurfaced my thrust journals. My crank endplay went from a comfortable .004" to close to .010" (service limit is .0071"). What would you guys do in this situation? Would there be issues if I ran it as is?

I'm thinking it might not be as bad as it seems because this endplay is due to material taken from both surfaces, instead of just one surface in the case of regular crankwalk. Not to mention that I now have perfectly smooth thrust journals.

Man, it would be nice if someone made a slightly thicker thrust bearing, so I could compensate for this...

 

[pauleyman]

No. Just no. Make them eat it.

 

[A Sharp]

No. Just no. Make them eat it.

Yeah, I told them to grind the mains and the rods. Neither I nor they ever mentioned the thrust journals. It is common sense not to touch the thrust journals, right?

I have a feeling that they're just going to be pricks and tell me it's my fault because I didn't specify not to.

 

[bling5tatus]

Well to me, if you pay for work, that means they have to hook up a machine and do work. So my question is.... did you pay for work you didn't need or ask for? That's how I'd pitch it.

 

[A Sharp]

So I took it in and they owned up to it. Now, about one month later, they finally got me another crankshaft. It came pre-ground from some remanufacturer. BUT THE THRUST SURFACES HAVE BEEN GROUND ON THIS ONE TOO!!!! In fact, the endplay on this "remanufactured" crankshaft is even worse than the one they originally messed up (.013"). So pissed right now .

Does anyone know of a reputable source I can point them at?

Maybe I should just tell them to stop being cheap and just get an OE replacement haha: http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_mitsubishi_crankshaft.htm

 

[bling5tatus]

Buy a new Mitsu OEM crank from someone that has 0 miles on it or is used. The 0 mile one is going to be nearly impossible to find, but I would not use any eagle cranks or any reground cranks. What works on the mouth breather muscle cars machine work wise isn't going to be good for your import engine that has tighter tolerances.

 

[ThunderChild]

I'd go with what you posted (stm) or maybe miller import parts would be able to find you a good crank? If I still had mine I'd send it to you

 

[miliman13]

could you possibly use other means?

King bearings offer thicker thrust faces to accommodate for grounded crank surfaces.


Perhaps using two like this member did on this thread:https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/2/6/4/0/thrust_assy.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/crankwalk-fix-for-7bolt-others.453033/&docid=OFsx4FUNYOw9WM&tbnid=I-7UjNZ2otaCwM:&w=621&h=492&bih=564&biw=360&ved=0ahUKEwib8-vy85vOAhXB6yYKHfnjA4kQMwgdKAEwAQ&iact=mrc&uact=8


I understand this is not ideal. But you most likely want to get past this. And that shop may run out of patience, let's not be delusional no one is gonna sue, it's a loss even for the winning party. Only the courts win.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Adding thicker thrust bearings that make up for the wear is a good option, but If it were me I'd look for a better crank to begin with, after all you payed for a stock condition part... or at the least as close to it as it can be.

My thoughts are your likely going to find lots of worn down 7 bolt dsm cranks due to age/wear etc. so it might be a good idea to see if the shop can source evo 8-9 7 bolt crank instead 2004-2006 are the years you want to search for, as an added bonus they are a tad lighter then dsm cranks.

 

[A Sharp]

Thanks for all the replies.

The machine shop has now sourced a third bad crank... They also gave me some King bearings to try. The King bearings are about 0.002" thicker than the ACLs I have, which still leaves me at 0.008" endplay with the best of the three cranks. I know King makes some thrust bearings that are substantially oversized, but they are only available in "limited" applications. I could not find such bearings for the 4g63 in their catalog.

As for the added thrust washer idea, it is definitely a possibility. Though, it feels like a last resort and I don't like the fact that it only presses on one half of the crank. Before trying that, I'll see if they can get an EVO crank as mitsubishikid suggested.

This is really tiring and has pretty much taken all the fun out of this build. But if it comes down to it, I'll take them to small claims court just to spite them .

 

[bjones18]

The added thrust washer is real easy. Very easy compared to pulling your engine again. Both thrust surfaces should contact at the same time.

 

[MichaelSuch]

I'm surprised that they touched the thrust surface of a crank.

Was the thrust bearings properly aligned? To do this you need to tap the crank backward (toward the flywheel/converter side if it is auto), then tap the crank forward to the balancer side with a dead blow hammer. Then prying forward on the crank the mains are torqued. Then endplay checked again.