2G Crankshaft Position Sensor cleaning & test fire help 2ga

[1greyawdtsi]

Hi. My 95 Talon Tsi awd 5 speed had intermittent power loss for a couple days then fortunately at home in my garage it devolved into a no start condition. Like the kids say I reflexively threw my purse at it and I installed a larger fuel pump - to no avail.
So I grabbed an OBD2 reader and it threw 1 code - 0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit.
I pulled the accessory belts and timing covers. Note I’ve had a slightly leaky power steering pump for years and it looks like a little oil and dirt over the years gummed up the crankshaft position sensor and trigger plate was also slightly dirty & oily but otherwise fine.
I’ve carefully cleaned the area and the CP sensor and all timing marks are good. I’ve searched but found no threads. So my question is if every thing is safely out of the way is it reasonable to test fire the engine to see if the cleaning the CP sensor & trigger plate may have worked - before I replace it?
I realize the water pump would not be circulating. If it fired it would only be running for a minute or two.
Before I attempt that I’m was curious if I’m missing something or shouldn’t attempt to start or fire the engine with all the accessory belts and all timing covers removed? Any insight is appreciated, thanks!

 

[1greyawdtsi]

I had the wife actuate the clutch pedal a bunch tonight both running and not, with the front end off the ground & the front driver side wheel removed. I did not feel any in and out pulley movement. And I didn’t hear any discernible sound or visually notice even the slightest crank pulley movement in or out. Then I closely examined pictures I had taken of the crank trigger plate area & inspected the old failed crankshaft position sensor and both looked to be free of any direct contact with each other. At this point it really wouldn’t be that hard to pull the timing covers again and swap out the Crankshaft Position Sensor with a genuine replacement, stay tuned…

 

[luv2rallye]

Since you have problems after it gets hot, have you ruled out vapor lock (due to bad fuel pressure solinoid)? https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/vapor-lock-hot-start.217349/#post-1821514.

Other hot start causes: http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/JFM/HotStart.html

 

[1greyawdtsi]

Since you have problems after it gets hot, have you ruled out vapor lock (due to bad fuel pressure solinoid)? https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/vapor-lock-hot-start.217349/#post-1821514.

Other hot start causes: http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/JFM/HotStart.html

Thanks I did read both these earlier this week. I pulled the vacuum line off the OEM FPR once it was hot and it still would start.
In January I purchased probably one of the last VRSF FMICs so thats new, all my vacuum lines are basically new, cleaned the throttle plate when I installed fmic, blocked the egr about a year ago, and this week I replaced the PCV valve. I actually was hoping vapor lock might be the issue.

 

[1greyawdtsi]

Update. Today I pulled the timing covers & examined the crankshaft position sensor. Sure enough there was in fact slight rubbing/contact between the outer (toward driver side) inside of the sensor and the trigger plate. It was slight but I could see the damage as metal was beginning to show through the plastic housing.
Anyway I ordered a new crankshaft position sensor from extreme psi on Wednesday and it should be here tomorrow or Monday.
My head is going round and round. As the old crank sensor had no signs of contact at all just a damaged wire. So I’ll be curious to compare the sensor from extreme psi and the autozone sensor.
I wonder if this really will be a very poorly manufactured sensor or a crank walk situation…

 

[luv2rallye]

Make sure you check for crank walk or a new sensor won't help.

 

[Mello]

Sorry you're still having problems & haven't found the cause yet. Like @luv2rallye says, you need to check for crankwalk to hopefully rule it out as not the problem. Also check the trigger disc & make sure it's not bent. I've seen times when it got bent while trying to squeeze on a balance shaft belt during TB changes.

 

[1greyawdtsi]

Update. Turns out it was definitely crank walk causing the CSP sensor to rub on trigger plate. It took 6 months of watching the market but I just purchased a GST Spyder with 63,300 miles for the donor motor. I’m almost certain I’ll have other issues going forward (CAS, etc.) as I swap the motor. Nevertheless thanks again for all the advice/help.