ECMlink Cranks, runs then dies...in 13yrs ive never been this baffled. Need some help. Logs included

[Vegas Smith]

Just logged ecuboost car would only run for a moment but here it is.

I have one on the lower intercooler pipe. IntTemp on link shows 77degrees which is right.

Your car is not setup to recognize any IAT sensor so that's not possible.

edit: It looks like you've now setup the IAT but that's a bad location for the sensor, and I'm still not certain you're actually logging the GM IAT. I believe the IAT you're logging is from the MAF.

 

[getusum]

Your car is not setup to recognize any IAT sensor so that's not possible.

edit: It looks like you've now setup the IAT but that's a bad location for the sensor, and I'm still not certain you're actually logging the GM IAT. I believe the IAT you're logging is from the MAF.

Im not running a MAF.

 

[jakk220]

Im not running a MAF.

That doesnt mean you cant be logging the wrong input. You need to make sure its GM IAT that you are logging. Unless you renamed GM IAT.

 

[getusum]

That doesnt mean you cant be logging the wrong input. You need to make sure its GM IAT that you are logging. Unless you renamed GM IAT.

Ahhh youre right...it shows 77 degrees on all my logs . How do i log it correctly?

 

[jakk220]

Ahhh youre right...it shows 77 degrees on all my logs . How do i log it correctly?

You need to make sure that you have the proper pin assigned to the GM IAT and then you have to go to captured values and make sure that you are capturing the data. Then you have to go to displayed values and add it to your datalogs.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I say map sensor

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[getusum]

I say map sensor

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I’m going to order a new one now. When it did rev it match the ecuboost for a second.

Got a new CAS and MAP en route…at this point Ill replace every piece until I find it.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I had an issue where it would randomly stall. Didn’t think it was the map since it was only about a year old. Swapped to gm 3 bar and it’s been good

 

[getusum]

You need to make sure that you have the proper pin assigned to the GM IAT and then you have to go to captured values and make sure that you are capturing the data. Then you have to go to displayed values and add it to your datalogs.

How do I make sure it’s the proper pin?

 

[jakk220]

How do I make sure it’s the proper pin?

GM IAT should be assigned to IAT pin under pin assignments.

I am also willing to bet that its the MAP sensor. That is literally almost exactly how my car was acting. I cant view the logs, but from what I am seeing in the screen grabs it looks wonky.

 

[KCDsmDude]

How do I make sure it’s the proper pin?

Under the ECMLink settings

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[AWD-Tony]

I’m going to order a new one now. When it did rev it match the ecuboost for a second.

I was looking at my log and it matches everywhere except for when the engine is off. In yours, it off on some other spots where the engine is running. Here's a screen shot of my last log where you can see when the engine is off at the end.

For your IAT, it's being captured, just not being displayed.

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[getusum]

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Got it…93 degrees is right.

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We’ll know in a couple days, got CAS and MAP coming from extreme psi.

 

[getusum]

It was the MAP sensor. Replaced with another Omni 4 bar, emailed Omni and they’re sending me a replacement. I’ll keep it as a spare…in the glove box . If it goes out again I’m going AEM. Thanks again for all the help guys!!

 

[We're on Boost]

@getusum
In the video you show in post #25, I think I see the Omni MAP sensor on top of the intake manifold plenum. Is that where it is? Just thinking, maybe this sensor really doesn't like all that vibration. Plus the heat.
That's a nice looking DSM BTW!

 

[getusum]

@getusum
In the video you show in post #25, I think I see the Omni MAP sensor on top of the intake manifold plenum. Is that where it is? Just thinking, maybe this sensor really doesn't like all that vibration. Plus the heat.
That's a nice looking DSM BTW!

You have a good point, when this one fails I’m definitely doing something different. Thank you sir!

 

[We're on Boost]

You have a good point, when this one fails I’m definitely doing something different. Thank you sir!

Thanks for verifying that. I'm hoping mine will last a while. It's been on the car since 2016, but not a lot of miles on it. Mine is on the forward facing wall of the passenger fender well, so it's pretty far forward in the car. In this pic it's got the green connector on it and it's almost hidden by a garbage heap of electrical tape. But in addition to not being on any part of the engine, it is in a pretty breezy spot, right between the air filter and that 2.3" diameter hole in the sheet metal where the stock IC pipe went (1g). Camera is looking straight down.

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[We're on Boost]

I had a feeling that if I said my Omni MAP sensor was still working it would fail immediately. And it did. I think. I’m not sure because after the car quit running, I let it sit with the hood up for about 10 minutes while checking for leaks and blown lines, and then it restarted and I drove it the 3 more blocks to home with no trouble. This sounds to me a lot like how the OP described his in post #1.

The failure happened at the end of a fairly rowdy 30 minute drive. Coming back into my neighborhood, driving along at ~20 mph, the engine all of a sudden wanted to not run for the most part. Over a period of about 30 seconds it would fire sort of randomly, just enough to keep the car rolling along slowly with several loud pops out the exhaust. It wasn’t the running on 2 cylinders thing. It was more like it didn’t want any of the cylinders to fire. I was in a perfect place to land so I pulled it over and let it die. Then I did the 10 minutes of hood up, then restarted it and drove it home.

I logged the cold start before the drive, and a warm restart in the garage after drive was over, but I didn’t log the drive itself where it failed.

This Omni sensor only has about 1,400 miles on it.

I think I’m going to go ahead and fab up a little bracket to mount an AEM 5 bar stainless MAP sensor in that same location where the Omni is now.

Thanks to the OP for his descriptions of the problem, and everybody else who commented in here!

 

[getusum]

I had a feeling that if I said my Omni MAP sensor was still working it would fail immediately. And it did. I think. I’m not sure because after the car quit running, I let it sit with the hood up for about 10 minutes while checking for leaks and blown lines, and then it restarted and I drove it the 3 more blocks to home with no trouble. This sounds to me a lot like how the OP described his in post #1.

The failure happened at the end of a fairly rowdy 30 minute drive. Coming back into my neighborhood, driving along at ~20 mph, the engine all of a sudden wanted to not run for the most part. Over a period of about 30 seconds it would fire sort of randomly, just enough to keep the car rolling along slowly with several loud pops out the exhaust. It wasn’t the running on 2 cylinders thing. It was more like it didn’t want any of the cylinders to fire. I was in a perfect place to land so I pulled it over and let it die. Then I did the 10 minutes of hood up, then restarted it and drove it home.

I logged the cold start before the drive, and a warm restart in the garage after drive was over, but I didn’t log the drive itself where it failed.

This Omni sensor only has about 1,400 miles on it.

I think I’m going to go ahead and fab up a little bracket to mount an AEM 5 bar stainless MAP sensor in that same location where the Omni is now.

Thanks to the OP for his descriptions of the problem, and everybody else who commented in here!

Sounds like a map to me! Lol
There has to be a better mounting location option.

 

[AWD-Tony]

It’s amazing how many Omni map sensors have failed just this year alone. Question for you guys. Have you checked your catch can after a hard drive? Before I rebuilt my block, it had about 1/2 cup after a hard session and when I removed my IM I noticed the runners were wet. After the rebuild, there isn’t much when I empty the catch can. Just curious if maybe oil vapors are the cause for the failure.

 

[We're on Boost]

Sounds like a map to me! Lol
There has to be a better mounting location option.

I don't know - before this happened I thought location would be a big part of it.
But my location was pretty nice. I don't see how it could be much nicer unless you put it in the cabin somewhere.

 

[getusum]

It’s amazing how many Omni map sensors have failed just this year alone. Question for you guys. Have you checked your catch can after a hard drive? Before I rebuilt my block, it had about 1/2 cup after a hard session and when I removed my IM I noticed the runners were wet. After the rebuild, there isn’t much when I empty the catch can. Just curious if maybe oil vapors are the cause for the failure.

Just checked, dry as a done.

 

[getusum]

I don't know - before this happened I thought location would be a big part of it.
But my location was pretty nice. I don't see how it could be much nicer unless you put it in the cabin somewhere.

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I’m thinking this

 

[We're on Boost]

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

I’m thinking this

Yes that's the one. The AEM 30-2130-75.
If you look at the specs on AEM's own page, they show different accuracy for the 3.5 bar and the 5 bar stainless sensors. According to them, the 5 bar is actually more accurate.
5 bar: +/- 0.5% of full scale
3.5 bar: +/- 1% of full scale

So if they are right about that, I think you would get slightly better accuracy with the 5 bar sensor, even at low pressures and in vacuum too.
But that accuracy would also depend on how accurately our ECUs can measure small voltage changes of a few hundredths of a volt. The 3.5 bar would have an advantage there because it changes voltage more per psi than the 5 bar does. So I don't know for sure how it all comes out for one vs the other.
Same price. Same response time. Same vibration spec. Same everything else.

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Also, you can look at post #297 in Vegas Smith's build thread which was when he was switching to the AEM 5 bar, and he shows a pic of the 5 bar and the 3.5 bar stainless sensors, can see the part numbers right on them.

 

[We're on Boost]

I had a feeling that if I said my Omni MAP sensor was still working it would fail immediately. And it did. I think. I’m not sure because after the car quit running, I let it sit with the hood up for about 10 minutes while checking for leaks and blown lines, and then it restarted and I drove it the 3 more blocks to home with no trouble. This sounds to me a lot like how the OP described his in post #1.

Well I messed-up a little here, sorry. Because I still had the exact same problem after changing the MAP to a nice new AEM 30-2130-75.
The problem actually did go away when I put in a new power transistor with all new connectors and wiring to it and to the coil pack. I've driven the car 12 times now (drives of over 20 minutes each) with the new power transistor so that is pretty well proven out.

As far as the Omni MAP goes, I don't know what to think of it. I would imagine that it helps to locate it in a place that minimizes heat and vibration. I also noticed that the Link 4 bar MAP sensor has a "form factor" similar to the Omni, and they say "Note that the sensor should be mounted higher than the intake manifold port that the hose connects to." Without explaining why. But I suppose it is so it doesn't accumulate any fluids or condensation. The Link 5 bar and 8 bar MAP sensors look like a different type and I don't see that same warning for them.