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cranks no start tryed it all HELP

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MyFirst1G

Probationary Member
4
0
May 12, 2011
Plainfield, Illinois
So i have had 2 2g's and have sold them off for other projects but im back to dsm for good. i found my self a 90 GSX with 84000 on her and clean. guy said his mom drove it to work 10 miles a day,she was a teacher had stickers all over it. dident want a stick anymore.she got a new car and that was it. timeing belt at 60k. it sat for a year. said it ran before it sat. sold it to me 1500 i thought it was a steal. he gave me a new slave cilender. it was bad i installed and realized pedal assembly was shot got one out of a 92 n/t talon junkyard welded and installed. fixed a break line. drained gas. fuel filter,fresh gas. new plugs no start.

i bought me a hanes manual and got a little confused testing some fuel relay by the ECU not to great with a volt meter heard it clicking wile cranking. fuel pump was running. heard it humming dident presher test. i took the ruturn off the fuel rail and had fuel pouring out wile cranking a little. IDK there? took fule rail off. little crank nothing comeing out of injectors IDK there? re installed fuel rail then took off the harness going to cilender 1 injector and tryed a little crank with probes in plug either way. nothing but not to shure again if i had volt meter working right. a little help there would be nice. I read something about cam sensor little confused. im used to distruibtors and carb's.wasent really shure how to test spark i pulled one plug at a time and grounded and got spark?

this site has alwasy been awsome hope u guys can help.
 
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Same thing happened to me today, except for me its a 95 Eagle Talon TSI. More than likely the engine fuse (20A) blew, try to replace it and see what happens.
 
Before diagnosing any no start problem, always stet with the battery. Make sure you has a good fully charged battery, and work your way from there. Test it with your multimeter and do a voltage drop across the battery terminals. It should read about 12-12.6 volts. If not, trickle charge it until fully charged.
 
Before diagnosing any no start problem, always stet with the battery. Make sure you has a good fully charged battery, and work your way from there. Test it with your multimeter and do a voltage drop across the battery terminals. It should read about 12-12.6 volts. If not, trickle charge it until fully charged.



Even though his grammar isn't the best, he stated that the car still cranked. With a dying battery it would barely crank, if it cranked at all. You're right about starting at the battery when its an ignition problem though.
 
From what I'm understanding your not getting current to your injector harness when cranking? Since it's a 90 pull the ecu out and open up the case. Look for burn marks on it.
 
He did say it sat for 1 year though. Nowhere did he mention that he charged the battery or bought it a new one. so I'm ASSuming that's enough time for enough dirt to settle on the battery top, causing a slow parasitic drain. If you don't believe me, grab a dirty battery and do a voltage drop test from one of the terminals to any part of the battery top. See if you get a voltage reading.
To the op... When the engine was cranking, was it a slow sluggish crank or a good strong crank?
 
Fuel is getting to the rail, but no fuel coming out of the injectors, I'll start looking at your injectors first. They are either clogged or they are not getting a signal. Test injectors and cam angle sensor.
 
I have had the same issue and replaced alot of things and the last thing I checked was the ECU and behold the capacitors were shot. They are know to burn out on our old cars one of the flaws they have. Pull the ECU and check for burn marks or leaky capacitors on the circuit board. From it sitting so long I dont know if it will have the rotten egg smell. But that would be a good start since you know your fuel pump is working and your getting fuel up to the rail, and spark is there from what you have stated.
 
thanks to all will test injectors and ecu.batery was new but had 11.9vat time of cranking cranked good and strong will do a voltage drop
any more details on testing the ECU and Injectors would help
 
I had a no start issue with my '90 TSI not to long ago. Could be fuel pressure, that alone will not let it start. Undo fuel feed line from fuel rail(2 bolts) and position so you can see it. Crank it, it should shot a long stream of fuel if the pump is working properly. Pump has to be able to get enough fuel to the rail to keep enough pressure, if fuel just runs out, i'd replace the pump(just upgrade at that point). If that checks out, with fuel system hooked up completely, listen to the injectors(with some help). Have someone crank it while you listen with a stethoscope, a screwdriver, or something of the equivalent. They should be ticking, if not, they're not getting a signal. It could be wires between the injectors and the ecu/pcm, or bad ecu/pcm. Start with ecu/pcm, you can get one off "Classifieds" for cheap, that's the best route, and if they still don't tick, then check the wiring. If they do tick, remove injectors and soak in gas over night(if clogged, should unclog or help loosen clogged gunk) shake container every couple hours. Then hook them to the rail, don't install them into head yet, position them pointing up and crank it, if they are not clogged and are getting a signal(working), they should be misting. If not misting, then they are clogged bad(replace them-upgrade). If they do mist, hook everything back up, and check fuel pressure. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, use a pair of vise grips. Clamp off the return line, not completely shut, but there should barely be any fuel getting thru(trickling thru). You just have to judge it. If your FPR(fuel pressure regulator) is bad, with that return line clamped off, it should start. If so replace the FPR. You can find everything you need in the classifieds for cheap, and I have a extra stock FPR, so let me know if this helps.

-P.S. Sorry so long....
 
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