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Crank no start flooding

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Gsx_frank

Probationary Member
15
0
Mar 14, 2016
Hawthorne, Nevada
So I just bought a 96 gsx that a guy hooked up the jumper cables backwards on I really want to get this thing on the road it's been sitting for a long time I'm out of reasons why it's not running. So I've replaced the battery, starter, crank position sensor, water temperature sensor, so far she has spark and way too much fuel. Mods I've found so far include aftermarket turbo, blow off valve, waist gate, rc 550 injectors, boost controler, turbo timer, airflow converter, adjustable came gears, and aftermarket guages. Any help would be appreciated! Oh I have two computers for it that I can switch out don't know if they are good but I have them.
 
Manual? did you try changing the starter relay under the radio? my 98 gst has two starter relays, one of them is the relay under the radio and its to the left of tandom relays. The second relay is near the fuse box on the driver side which controls the alarm system if you have one.
 
Sounds like you've commenced this endeavor blind and are just throwing parts at it in hopes of mending your no start issue. You need to verify basics ie spark, fuel etc. before even thinking about replacing stuff. You should read up on basic electric principles. Every car that is jumped started with the cables on incorrect terminals will be different in what is damaged. The fuse block is where you'll need to start. A wiring diagram for the fuse block wouldn't be a bad thing to have on hand.
 
I would hold off on the two spare computers you have for right now. Is the one that's in it stock or something like an AEM or Link? Also, was the car running well before the jumper cable incident?
 
Sounds like you've commenced this endeavor blind and are just throwing parts at it in hopes of mending your no start issue. You need to verify basics ie spark, fuel etc. before even thinking about replacing stuff. You should read up on basic electric principles. Every car that is jumped started with the cables on incorrect terminals will be different in what is damaged. The fuse block is where you'll need to start. A wiring diagram for the fuse block wouldn't be a bad thing to have on hand.
it has spark and fuel i have verified both i can get it to fire for a secont if i disconnect the fuel pump
 
I would hold off on the two spare computers you have for right now. Is the one that's in it stock or something like an AEM or Link? Also, was the car running well before the jumper cable incident?
as far as i know one of the computers is the factory unit with no mods ant the other one is from a talon according to what is written on the case i have opened it and see no modifacations to the board
 
Manual? did you try changing the starter relay under the radio? my 98 gst has two starter relays, one of them is the relay under the radio and its to the left of tandom relays. The second relay is near the fuse box on the driver side which controls the alarm system if you have one.
the car did come with a key fob but i havent tgried to get it to work yet
 
i can get the car ti fire but as soon as i release the key it dies is there a relay or module that may be bad that keeps the fuel pump going somewhere that may be bad
 
I noticed you said in your first post that you had air and spark and way too much fuel. I'm thinking that there's an issue with the ECM. It sounds almost like the part of the computer which is in charge of injector cycle times is fried and the injectors may be stuck open. If you take your plugs out and they're dripping, I would try to switch to one of the other ECM's and see if it runs. Bear in mind that even if it does, based on the mod list, you are going to need some type of aftermarket engine management such as at least a fuel controller if not a complete standalone setup. I would go with ECMLink V3 due to the flexibility, support available, low cost and ease of installation. Do it once and do it right. Plus you can actually TUNE this thing to be optimized for whatever mods you have as well as any you choose to do in the future...
 
I noticed you said in your first post that you had air and spark and way too much fuel. I'm thinking that there's an issue with the ECM. It sounds almost like the part of the computer which is in charge of injector cycle times is fried and the injectors may be stuck open. If you take your plugs out and they're dripping, I would try to switch to one of the other ECM's and see if it runs. Bear in mind that even if it does, based on the mod list, you are going to need some type of aftermarket engine management such as at least a fuel controller if not a complete standalone setup. I would go with ECMLink V3 due to the flexibility, support available, low cost and ease of installation. Do it once and do it right. Plus you can actually TUNE this thing to be optimized for whatever mods you have as well as any you choose to do in the future...
I have two different ecm's I have tried both not knowing if they are good no one in my town has a dsm I can try them on. I called rc engineering they will test and clean the injectors for 24 bucks but won't rebuild them for some reason but I'm going to adjust the cam timing when I get home and see where that takes me
 
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