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2G Correct 2g EDM taillight wiring with pictures!

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So the Spidey write up was missing parts to get your signals to work properly. Most people who attempted the wiring came out with hyper blink. I have resolved this issue and also provided pictures. Lets get to it!

Tools:
Two 8-Ohm 20 what resistors Radio Shack PN: 271-0120
Solder
Soldering iron
Wire strippers/cutters
Electrical tape
20' of Auto wire
10mm deep socket
Regular screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Volt Meter
Awl/small pointy object

Hopefully you have access to instructions on removing your taillights, but in case you don't, I've included a brief description of the tools and process. A 10mm deep socket will come in handy here. Remove the two panels for bulb access. Also take out the center section of the interior section of the trunk. To do so you will have to take out the spare tire so you can pop the bottom part of this panel. With that popped you can lift it up and off. This will give you access to the seven nuts that hold the center Eclipse section. It will also make it easier to run some new wiring. With the center section off you can unbolt the right and left side taillights.

First you need to transfer the wiring and attached bulbs and sockets from the all red American lights to the German set. A single Phillips screw holds the white socket to the light assemblies. The bulb and socket at the "arrow head" end needs to be swapped to the German lights as well.

Mount the German lights into the tail section and secure with the nuts. Then the center Eclipse section.

Keep in mind how the (US) lights are wired to work from the factory. This will help you understand the changes required to get the German lights wired. The driving and parking lights are all the way across, in other words all three sockets are energized. They use a twin filament, 1157, bulb. The low wattage filaments are used for the running and parking lights. The arrowhead ends never energize the high wattage filament, but fortunately they are there waiting for a new role. The two sockets toward the center use the high wattage filaments for brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashing. This is important to remember because a single wire feeds the signal for these functions. The same wire that sends the electrical pulse for the turn signal also sends the steady voltage for the brakes.

The German taillights will need to be set up so the two center bulbs use the low wattage filaments for parking and running; and the high wattage for brake lights only. The arrowhead amber socket needs to have the high wattage filament dedicated to the turn signal and hazard voltage. Remember though that a single wire sends all three to the American taillights. So the trick is to remove the brake signal to that wire and only allow the turn/hazard signal voltage through.

*Not Noted before*
To prepare things you will need to move the pin in the arrowhead bulb connector from one side of the socket to the other. The center contact is ground and does not need to be moved. Take an awl and poke the contact out of the socket and also remove the rubber plug from the side you are moving it to. Put the rubber plug into the hole the contact came out of. This swap will mean that voltage will now activate the high wattage filament of the 1157 bulb. Now cut the wire you just moved about 3 to 4 inches away from the socket. You will be attaching a new wire to these "pig tails" later. Tape the rest of the wire you just cut (the chassis side) so it will not ground out on anything.

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You should end up with this.

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*Not Noted before*
You will also need to swap the connections in the socket itself. Do this by Removing the pigtail and bulb. Then simultaneously press the black clips on either side of the center pin, towards the center pin and out (away from you). Once out. Turn the connection 180* and re insert it into the socket.

Starting with this

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Put it back in this way.

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End result

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You will need to go to Radio Shack and pick up a couple (two) 8 Ohm, 20-watt resistors (pn: 271-0120). These are ceramic resistors and will simulate the resistance of another bulb. Without this additional resistance the turn signals will "quick flash". But we will get to that later.

The next step is to remove the turn and hazard signal from the wire that carries the brake light voltage. To do this you will need to access the hazard/signal flasher behind the radio. To gain access you will need to lift off the center console and the passenger side panel. I will assume that you either know or can find the directions on this.

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Once it is all off pull the connector off the unit. It has ten wires connected to it. As you look at the connector you will see one side has a notch. To the left and right of the notch are two wire contacts each. The one on the left closest to the notch is the one that sends the signal to the back.

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There is a gray clip that keeps the contacts in place so take it off (and don't lose it). Push out the contact identified prior. If you want to be sure you have the correct one take a voltmeter and probe the socket. You should see it activate when you press the brake pedal (duhh) and go to zero volts when you are off the pedal. When you have the contact pushed out of the socket, replace the gray lock and then tape up the wire you just removed so it cannot short on anything.

Now put your radio back in and your console together.

The next job is to send a brake signal to the two center sockets. To do this you need to run a wire from the signal that goes to the center "third" brake light. This is behind the panel under the rear window on the driver's side. There is a green/red wire that you will tap for its signal. To do so you will need to strip back some of the insulation and solder a new wire to it. This new wire will need to be fed to the tail light area.

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The white socket that hangs from the taillight bulb sockets are now ready for their surgery. First the driver's side. Strip back the insulation on the chassis side of the harness to reveal 3 wires, the ground (black) and the wire next to it (parking light voltage), stay. The gray/blue wire is cut leaving a 2-3" pigtail. The end that goes to the socket will be connected to the wire you soldered in the prior step(3rd brake light wire) and will also need to be daisy-chained over to the other taillight for the brake lights over there, but that comes last.

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The chassis side of the cut gray/blue wire will be extended to the amber corner socket on the left side. In addition you will need to connect the 8-Ohm resistors to a chassis ground on one end and this wire on the other. So from this single wire it splits into two wires. One to the resistor and ground and the other to the socket connector on the amber arrow. To explain this a little easier, ground one end of the resistor, and connect the green wire from the amber corner as well as the gray/blue wire to the other end of the resistor.

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Next is the right socket. The wire to be cut is gray/red. The socket side gets connected to the brake light wire daisy changed from the left light. The chassis side gets split again. One strand goes to the amber corner wire and and the other to the grounded resistor.

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VIDEO PROOF!

http://vid237.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/unionfootball_88/20130423_203659_zps9c8c46eb.mp4

I had a longer version but it had too many pictures. I was prompted to delete some and accidentally clicked cancel change. As I was in edit mode. However I still added the parts that the other how to was missing. If you need any more help. Please feel free to ask.
 
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