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Spyder Convertible Top Replacement

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Does your top look like this?
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Want it to look like this?
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Here's what you need:

Materials -

Replacement top - https://www.autotopsdirect.com/1996-99-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Convertible-Tops-s/2958.htm (I went with "Stayfast Canvas Black" to retain the OEM look and heated glass rear window)
Spray Adhesive -
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Optional extras -

Elastic Strapping - https://www.michaels.com/black-non-roll-elastic-by-loops-and-threads/10550320.html
Heavy Duty Snaps (size 24) - https://www.michaels.com/heavy-duty-snaps-by-loops-and-threads/10354209.html

Tools -

Staple gun with 1/2" staples
Phillips Screwdriver
Flathead Screwdriver
Needle nose pliers (long straight AND 45 degree offset suggested)
T25 torx bit and ratchet (suggest 1/4" drive, but 3/8 drive will work)
Straight pick
Hammer
Punch
Clamps (suggest something like this, at least 4 of them https://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-capacity-steel-spring-clamp-39569.html)
 
Start off by popping the open the trunk, removing the taillight bulb access panel on the driver's side, and flip the switch for the top motors to "manual".
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Next, remove the 6 phillips head screws holding the rear cover plates on and remove those three panels. This step is considered "optional", but makes removing the rear rib a LOT easier.
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With those panels removed, roll down all 4 windows and lift the top to the halfway point. Be sure to lift ***from the center point at the front edge*** so you don't put any unnecessary strain on the ribs.
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Starting at the front of the top, remove the phillips head screws from the front plate and remove that panel.
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Next, carefully remove the rubber seals closest to the front edge of the top and remove the three phillips head screws holding in the retaining channels.
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Starting from the front of the top, peel back the top edge of the fabric. The fabric has been held in place for quite a while with spray adhesive, so expect it to be tough and anticipate a lot of dust to pop up while you are removing it.
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Next up, it's time to remove the headliner. Start off by removing the two phillips head screws and peel back the velcro (it's the heavy duty plastic type, not the fabric type).
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Once you get past the velcro, the remainder of the top is held in place by a VERY tight plastic snap channel. I found it easiest to remove these channels by inserting a flathead screwdriver on the edge and getting one edge loose. Once one edge is loose, the rest of the channel peels back easily. There are two channels held in place like this, do this for both.
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At this point, there are three more things holding the headliner in place. The velcro around the rear window...
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... the snap buttons holding tension on the back of the headliner...
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.. and two screws on each side holding elastic straps to the convertible frame.
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With the headliner out of the way, you can continue to peel back the top fabric. Start by removing the fabric adhered to the floating rib.
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You'll only be able to get the floating rib detached before you need to disconnect the side tension cables. These are riveted in place, and can be removed with a hammer and punch by punching out the center of the rivet. You can also chisel it off with a flathead screwdriver, or drill it out. If you opt to drill it out, be careful as the material underneath is aluminum and can be damaged easily.
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Your next obstacle will be an elastic strap..
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Continue to peel the top back off of the ribs, and pull the side tensions cables out of their channels.
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Next, you need to remove the rear quarter window seals. These are held in by 4 push-clips and can tear very easily.
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Obviously, these seals are not readily available so it's important you remove them carefully. I found the easiest method was to use a pair of straight needle nose pliers to pry from behind the seal on the top 3 clips...
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and then take a pair of 45 degree offset needle nose pliers to easily remove the bottom clip.
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With the seals out of the way, you can peel the fabric out of that channel, where you will find even more old adhesive tacking it down.
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Next up is probably the most difficult part of the top removal, if you don't know how to remove these clips the easy way. There are two clips holding the side flaps down, I'm pointing to the top clip with my pliers here:
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The trick here is to take a long pair of needle nose pliers, OR a long flathead screwdriver and push the clips out from the back.
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With the side flaps up and out of the way, you can reach down into the body and remove the two S clips that hold the rain gutters in place
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At this point, you've reached the home stretch and the top is nearly off. Grab your T25 torx bit and ratchet, and remove the 4 bolts holding the rear rib in place.
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With the rear rib disconnected from the frame assembly, you can maneuver it up and out of the body to gain access to the tack strip.
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Start by removing the two phillips head screws (one on each side), and then spend the next 10 minutes tediously removing staples with your straight pick and a pair of pliers.
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Last, but not least, if you have a glass rear window with defrosters, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness before pulling too hard on the top.

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At this point, you can take some time to clean up and loose or chipping paint on the frame, swap out the rain gutters, or replace some of the old worn out elastic bands.
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I went ahead and replaced both elastic bands for the rear of the headliner to hold that a bit more taught around the rear window.
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I wasn't precise on my measurements, so I added a second snap for some adjustability. These simply get stapled to the rear tack rail.
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Now, before you can put the new top on, there's a few very important things you need to do.

First, you need to find the centerpoint of the rear rib. I did this by taping a piece of string to the very end of the rear rail, and slowly stretching it out to the other side. I then transferred the string to a tape measure and came up with a measurement of 88". I marked the string at the halfway point, stretched it out again on the rear rail, and used some red paint touchup paint I had from my old car to mark the middle on the rear rail.
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You also want to cut the old side flaps from the old top so you can lay them onto the new top and punch holes for the push pins as these are NOT pre-punched and it is impossible to do this accurately on the car.
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Now, this is the part where your mileage may vary.

Every bit of documentation I received from autotopsdirect, right down to their instruction manual they provide you in pdf format after purchasing the top, had referenced a "guide line" that you simply placed at the top of the rear rail and used as a nice easy reference for where to staple.

Well, I found out at this point that my new top didn't have that guide line. I couldn't wait until AT Direct was open the next day to try and figure out what to do, so I improvised.

You see, I knew that the seam above the rear window sat directly over top of the 3rd rib. I also knew that the side screws that hold the top on the 4th rib went through that same seam. It took some time, but I was able to utilize spring clamps on the interior of the car (remember that fabric that stretches around the ribs?) to get everything positioned perfectly above that third rail, lined up the notch in the fabric that marked the centerpoint of the new top (at least they remembered to put that on), and got everything tacked down properly. This entire process took about an hour and a half as I wanted it to be PERFECT.

Once the new top was tacked onto the tack rail, I bolted the rib back into place, sprayed fresh contact cement on each rib, and slowly followed the above steps in reverse.

I started on the job around noon, and finished it up just shy of midnight. During that 12 hour timeframe, I took a trip to Ace Hardware for contact cement spray adhesive and satin black spray paint, another trip to Michael's for some elastic and heavy duty snap buttons, stopped at Sonic for some happy hour slushies with the kids, and took a break for lunch and dinner. Total working time was around 8 hours, done solo, and includes the time taken to clean and paint the top frame assembly.
 
I had to improvise a bit using known variables. Since the guide line was missing, I made my own guideline utilizing the seam that rides across the third rib. I utilized the "notch" in the fabric that marked the center and used that to get the top positioned in a "good enough" state at the 4th rib using spring clamps. I then grabbed even more spring clamps and used them to temporarily hold the seam in place on the third rib so that I could line everything up there, since I knew with 100% certainty that is where that seam was supposed to go. Once I had that seam held in place with spring clamps I stretched the fabric back to the 4th rib, leaving just enough slack to allow for the little bit of room I knew I needed to bolt that rib back down under the cowl, and started shooting staples in from the center and working my way outwards towards the sides. It was nerve wracking, but ended up coming out near perfect.
 
To anyone reading this post... As you have read, the Auto top and Key tops do not come with guidelines clearly marked on the lower staple bar. EZon and Robbins tops do and make it much easier to install. I am a Master Upholsterer, so I know what I am talking about… You could measure from the bottom of the window glass on your old top and mark the new top with this measurement to assist you if you do end up with a Key or Autotop.
 
Thanks for the best write-up I found anywhere online. It sure didn't make the experience easier but helped give me to confidence to perform the repair. I have a 97 with half decent top and I bought a 98 with a shot top, I actually found a company who was selling EZ-ON EWP window beige tops at a blow-out price. I got 2 for 399.99 shipped to my door. I figured I would try the shot top first. I still have not glued the front edge down, trying to make sure fabric stretches first. I don't think it came out too bad... But thanks to this thread and the posters jinscho, Widgmaster and Hickory-NC-2Ggsx. Thanks again guys!

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