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Contructive Info On Aluminum Rods?

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The billet main caps are unnecessary, and only involve alot more machining to be installed on the engine. Save your money and machine the stock main caps. I don't think I have ever heard of the stock 4G63 main caps failing.

If you are going to be running a 6-bolt, I would recommend looking into the Kiggly main girdle for extra support.

If you are running a 7-bolt, then it is only necessary to clearance the stock main girdle to fit the rods (on a 2.0L; but you will need to still clearance the rest of the block to clear the rod stroke; especially if on a 100mm crank).

for a 2.0 7bolt build do you have to grind the bottom of the cylinders to clear aluminum rods? got any pics?
 
for a 2.0 7bolt build do you have to grind the bottom of the cylinders to clear aluminum rods? got any pics?

Yeah that's what I'm more worried about is the bottom of the cylinders. I can live with machining the caps for clearance but if the cylinders need to be machined for a basic 2.0 6 bolt aluminum rod setup it's just to much of a hassel in my opinion and I will probably just get a set of manley I beams or pauter A's.
 
Hell, even if you do have to machine it for clearancing, it's not that big of a deal. I had it done with my 2.3 liter. And the machinist is the one doing the work anyway. Unless you're doing all the machining yourself. Then I could see it being a hassle.
 
Hell, even if you do have to machine it for clearancing, it's not that big of a deal. I had it done with my 2.3 liter. And the machinist is the one doing the work anyway. Unless you're doing all the machining yourself. Then I could see it being a hassle.

No i'm not but paying for a basic bore job and paying for custom block machining are too different things. I can get a basic bore and clean on my block for like $200 and assemble it myself. If it needs to be machined at the bottom of the block it would no doubtably cost a good bit more.
 
A 6 bolt will not need the bottom of the cylinders machined unless you are going with a stroker. I don't know about the 7bolt though, let Tim answer that one.
 
Now the question is, do you have to notch the cyc on a 2.0 7bolt motor to fit alum rods?
 
Don't forget about BME rods! We use them in our "Nasty" series engines.

Do you guys have any pictures of block clearances with these rods? both 2.0l and 2.3l setups (4g63 blocks)?

On 2.0 engines: in 7-bolts these are drop-in rods, no clearance work required. In 6-bolts, we put the main caps in the bridgeport for minor trimming. They also clear a Kiggly girdle with no problems.

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We don't run these in 2.3 strokers, there is a LOT of clearance work required. These are wider than Manley I-beam rods, which require clearance work as well.

The aluminum rods are still lighter than steel rods.

Groden rods weigh about 122 grams less than crowers.

I'm trying to decide between a destroked 2.4L(2.1L) or a 2.0L for the future. Either way I will be using Groden aluminum rods and Mahle pistons. The piston will be $200 a piece if I do the destroked 2.4L since they will be custom pieces. Not sure about the rod price yet for the 2.4L though since they will need to be 162mm.

A 2.1 Destroker is quite pointless unless you plan on revving that thing out to 12k RPM's. The rod ratio is far too high for your average 9krpm 4G.

See this thread for weights on the BME's:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...s-our-cars-let-me-show-you.html#post153263545

how about titanium connecting rods?

Titanium rods are cool, but extremely expensive. Aluminum rods have all the advantages with 1/4 of the cost. Maybe if you were doing a no-expense-spared 2.4 build where aluminum rods would require major clearance work.

Hmm.. aluminum rods for a BC 2.6 stroker might be interesting.

I highly doubt they would fit without trimming holes in the block.

Here's what Bill Miller has to say about them:

"I don't know how the myth that aluminum rods can't be used on the street got started, but I'll guess that, back in the 60s and early-70s, they weren't making them using the process we're using, today. With the material we've got and they way we manufacture the connecting rods, they'll live a couple hundred thousand miles on the street because a street application is, for the most part, low load. Our basic Aluminum Rod is made for 10,000 rpm and 800-hp. The design criteria for the connecting rod is way overkill for what it's going see on the street. We been running aluminum rods on the street for 20 years."
 
Don't forget, you also have to drill the bearings like so:

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I wonder if there's any companies out there other than ffwd, that'll do the drilling for you and include it in the price of the rod. There's some things I don't mind doing myself. However, that's not one of them.
 
We can drill the bearings. You can either buy them through us or send the ones you have. We recommend Clevite H bearings for 7-bolts and ACL race bearings for 6-bolts.
 
Need to know if a 2.0 motor need notching to fit r&r 156mm aluminium rod? Either the block or girdle. As for drilling bearings, anyine has a photo of a jig i can use? I tried using the old conrod cap but i realized the bearing oem hole isnt true center n is located slightly towards the locking tab portion. Any assistance wud b app. Didnt read through complete thread. Also photos not showing
 
Need to know if a 2.0 motor need notching to fit r&r 156mm aluminium rod? Either the block or girdle.
Yes and yes. How much grinding you need would depend how much clearance you want and which block you use.

As for drilling bearings, anyine has a photo of a jig i can use?
I made this, the pics below. My R&R rod's dowel pin location was set at the position of OEM bearing oil jet hole. (You have to make sure about the position before drilling)

I tried using the old conrod cap but i realized the bearing oem hole isnt true center n is located slightly towards the locking tab portion.
The oil jet hole is NOT centered. The hole is actually on rod beam side to jet the oil towards the major thrust side (the lock tab side). So that is normal.

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Yes and yes. How much grinding you need would depend how much clearance you want and which block you use.


I made this, the pics below. My R&R rod's dowel pin location was set at the position of OEM bearing oil jet hole. (You have to make sure about the position before drilling)


The oil jet hole is NOT centered. The hole is actually on rod beam side to jet the oil towards the major thrust side (the lock tab side). So that is normal.

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Thanks very much, both blocks are the non squirter type blocks, the plan is to mount the rods on the pistons and mock assemble in the crank to turn and see where is touching and needs attention. Quick question about the rod cap jig, ia the block u made tapered so when you set on the table would drill straight. My plan was to bolt it back onto a rod and clamp on a vise and drill it. Debur it after wards. The R&R comes with the bearings to it should be good but i hav another motor im gona use the GRP 150mm which i dont think needs to notch.
 
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