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2G Continuously Blowing 30A Ignition Switch Fuse

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Adrian216

Probationary Member
21
3
Feb 24, 2020
Cleveland, Ohio
Hey guys I’m a new to the site and I picked up a 96 5spd GSX a few weeks ago and I’ve been reading up on the problems I’ve been having for awhile now so I decided to make my own thread.


I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I have a lot to learn and I hope you guys can give me some valuable insight.


So first off, the car struggles to start, it takes about 5-10 cranks while blipping the gas until she’ll come alive. Once she’s warmed up, she’ll start first crank no problem.


The main problem is when I put load on the car, anything about 3500rpm or so and up, the car breaks up, occasionally backfires then usually stalls and blows the 30A Ignition switch fuse under the hood.


I am able to put put the car around without blowing any fuses as long as I keep it under 3k, and I have no issues revving the car up at standstill with no load.


Once the first initial fuse blows, the next fuses continue to blow more frequently with less load on the car.


At first, to me this felt like some type of spark or lack of fuel problem. Possibly the car isn’t getting enough fuel, and when hits boost maybe the car is leaning out?? Or possibly there was a short with the spark wires causing it to misfire and run poorly, which I've read in another thread. So I went on to order and swap the plugs, wires and coil packs.


I’ve so far replaced the spark plugs, wires and ignition coils with Ngk bpr6es plugs, Taylor 8.2mm wires, and two ebay coil pack replacements.


After swapping the plugs and wires, the car seems to run somewhat smoother... but I’m still experiencing the same issues.


I’ve read that people first recommend removing the sunroof and power seat fuses. I’ve already tried removing both of those, and the car still blows the fuse.

**UPDATE** Also something to note, my oil pressure sensor has never worked, neither has the horn, and my right rear turn signal blinks as if there is a blown light, but there isn't any blown lights and I just noticed the light blinks very dim, as if there is low voltage. So I am about to look into the sensor then read into how to use a multi-meter... LOL

My next plan of action will be to follow all the aftermarket wiring from the push button start and the gauges to make sure everything is correct, then start pulling fuse by fuse and burning through the twenty 30 amp fuses I just pocketed from my local junkyard.


Here is a list of everything I know of that has been done to the car:

Push button ignition
Manual boost controller knob - 12 psi low - 20 psi
high- havent f***ed with high
Garret m24 AR .48
Auto meter boost gauge
Auto meter pyrometer header temp gauge
Short throw kit
New clutch
Unlabeled / no serial computer
Apexi catback
Ngk bpr6es plugs gapped at .28 I believe
Taylor 8.2mm plug wires
Receipts for 255 walbro - haven’t checked tho
 
Last edited:
It's highly possible that the push button ignition is the main culprit, but it also seems like you may have some grounds that need attention, specifically some under hood grounds. I'd start looking for everything that requires a good chassis ground, clean, reattach and paint over again. I personally added extra grounds on my car as the existing ones were few and far between IMHO.
 
As stated, target that push button setup. These cars never had it OEM, and anything people throw in them to add this system is just junk. Constantly blowing fuses like that, to me suggests a short to power issue. Sounds like there's just to much power being sent through the fuse and causes the short. Could be wrong, but might not be.
 
Thanks for all your feedback guys.

Finally...!!!! After weeks of tearing apart my entire car it turns out I had two shorts!! The first short was from the hot wire connected to the starter and my push button starter switch .. BINGO, it was grounding out underneath my metal battery bracket. Very dumb location for a hot wire.

The second short I can't believe I found, it was one strand of a hot wire from the wiring underneath my inter cooler piping next to the intake filter that was rubbing against the frame when i would drive the car or hit bumps. This wire was getting extremely hot and melted a few of the surrounding wires causing some havoc. After tracing and soldering the remaining connections, I've since drove 75 miles with no fuse issues and I've done numerous pulls!!! WOO!!

Just when I thought everything was perfect... Now I've been welcomed with the amazing sound of something knocking / ticking in the engine! Glad to be apart of the DSM World!

- Here's a video of the ticking noise I'm about to make a new thread about
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