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Complete Holset Destruction

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90CherryBomb

15+ Year Contributor
48
0
Feb 3, 2005
Springfield, Massachusetts
This is my holset turbo that just made 399hp on Saturday. It blew up on the way home, so I limped it home and took it apart today, I was hoping it was rebuildable but certainly not now :(

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The exhaust wheel is fubar, all the fins are all chewed up and one of the fins is broken off and completely missing.

The exhaust side was chewed up a bit, is that something I can reuse? I already bought a new holset, but I NEED this housing, I need to have this fixed before the weekend, as this is my daily and I drive 100 miles round trip to work daily.

The intake wheel has some bent fins (probably from all the shaft movement)

Spinning the exhaust wheel you can see lots of movement.

:cry:
 
Heres an email that my friend sent me regarding these turbos.

Quote:
Title: Re: Holset HX40/H1E questions
Post by: schoust on May 21, 2008, 03:46:50 AM
Well i can tell you Bud that i am having the same issues I'm begining to think if you are buying junk yard stuff that the responces are far and few between. I have some experiance with both of those turbo's on my Cummins turbo diesel. The hx35 is a stocker and very stought for a small turbo but the 40 will not hold up very well unless it is modified the shafts are very week and on a Diesel they break very easy when the boost gets up ther I thought I would warn you on that at least.

Check this website http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=110005.0

What my friend sent me in pm on another forum.

well heres an idea to think about when you are going to do a rebuild on the turbo you might as well put a stronger shaft on the hx40. just make sure its a shaft that will accomodate both compressor and turbine wheels i have a thicker shaft on my 60-1 when i did the rebuild but thats because the one on there was crap and it would not fit the bigger turbine wheel so that cost me an extra 150 my total rebuild was about $650-680 but i think im honestly going to be satisfied with this turbo.

I just felt it would be of relevance. I still plan to buy a hx40 though. Hopefully there wont be too many of these types of threads regarding these turbos...
 
Similar problem happened to me with my 40 pro after countless hours of 27+ psi mayhem. The exhaust wheel started to crack and a piece broke off throwing the turbine out of balance and banging up the housing and turbo. I ordered a New CHRA from Bullseyepower about 2-3 years ago and all has been well since then. I inspected the turbo last week and there is still minimal shaft play and absolutly no cracking in the turbine. The CHRA cost me about $450 if i remember correctly, I also picked up a Stainless steel exhaust housing from Bullseye too if your interested in picking one up, I think I paid somewhere around 150 maybe a year or so ago.
 
From my trolling the diesel forums, they have fixed the shaft/turbine-wheel issue that occurs at highboost. The wh1e and h1e turbos never had a problem. It seams a percentage of the older hx40 centersections had this problem.
 
Hi,

On the HX40 does the shaft break or does it go into a bending mode and make the wheels contact the housings?

If you can afford it I would get another turbo, new with the "upgraded" shaft if you can.

Couple reasons I suggest this. You say your compressor wheel blades are bent over, this along with a rubbed housing will cause you a few problems. The blades might fatigue off getting stuck in your intercooler, your comp. eff. will stink, and you might throw off the balance of the system so bad that you will wear the bearings away very prematuraly leaving you in the same situation.

The dings in your turbine housings. I would clean it up and post some more pictures. These dings will hurt your turbine efficiency, and they might also induce blade failure on your turbine wheel due to some high cycle fatigue vibrations from the blades passing this dinged up surface at a very high speed. It would depend on how deep the dings were and where they were. This high cycle fatigue issue might be a stretch, but another thing to watch out for is blades of the old turbine wheel getting stuck in the volute and then coming out and FODing (foriegn object damage) your new turbine wheel.

Bill
 
How much boost were you running on your dyno runs? Where were you oiling the turbo from? do you have bshafts? How many miles are on it?
 
Hi,

On the HX40 does the shaft break or does it go into a bending mode and make the wheels contact the housings?

If you can afford it I would get another turbo, new with the "upgraded" shaft if you can.

Couple reasons I suggest this. You say your compressor wheel blades are bent over, this along with a rubbed housing will cause you a few problems. The blades might fatigue off getting stuck in your intercooler, your comp. eff. will stink, and you might throw off the balance of the system so bad that you will wear the bearings away very prematuraly leaving you in the same situation.

The dings in your turbine housings. I would clean it up and post some more pictures. These dings will hurt your turbine efficiency, and they might also induce blade failure on your turbine wheel due to some high cycle fatigue vibrations from the blades passing this dinged up surface at a very high speed. It would depend on how deep the dings were and where they were. This high cycle fatigue issue might be a stretch, but another thing to watch out for is blades of the old turbine wheel getting stuck in the volute and then coming out and FODing (foriegn object damage) your new turbine wheel.

Bill
The only thing I'm reusing is the BEP exhaust housing. I'm going to put the CHRA in and spin it by and and see if anything catchs, and either way I'll probably smooth it out with a dremel so it doesn't touch. I don't like the idea of reusing this housing anyways, but, I need to for atleast the time being.

How much boost were you running on your dyno runs? Where were you oiling the turbo from? do you have bshafts? How many miles are on it?
30 on dyno and street.

oiling from oil filter housing, -4, with fp "red" journal bearing restrictor/filter. no balance shafts, ported oil relief valve.

on this new holset i'm going to be feeding from the head with no restrictor.
 
I'm just curious but what was the part number on your holset. It'd be nice to pinpoint which ones were/are having problems so we can put an fyi list out to purchasers.
 
I'm just curious but what was the part number on your holset. It'd be nice to pinpoint which ones were/are having problems so we can put an fyi list out to purchasers.

The part number "plate" was missing :-\
 
Friend of mine had a brand new HX-40 Pro and the turbo blew within couple of times on the dyno. Brand new, fed from OFH/don't know about restrictor. Bought it off some of the BEP vendor list. And that was like 18-20 months ago. Boost in the 30-32 PSi range.

P.S. It was a full race car, with like 10 passes on the dyno, no street miles, no 1/4 mile...
 
Friend of mine had a brand new HX-40 Pro and the turbo blew within couple of times on the dyno. Brand new, fed from OFH / don't know about restrictor.
Find out about this if you can. It almost sounds like it was over-oiled to me.
 
30 on dyno and street.

oiling from oil filter housing, -4, with fp "red" journal bearing restrictor/filter. no balance shafts, ported oil relief valve.

on this new holset i'm going to be feeding from the head with no restrictor.

that sounds about right. I blew up an hx35 lot worse than yours years back from oiling from head with 3an and no bshafts. So definitely stick with the 4an. My friends ram has about 4an line for stock on it. Ill be installing my hx40 within a month or two and will use 4an from housing, but i still have shafts.
 
that sounds about right. I blew up an hx35 lot worse than yours years back from oiling from head with 3an and no bshafts. So definitely stick with the 4an. My friends ram has about 4an line for stock on it. Ill be installing my hx40 within a month or two and will use 4an from housing, but i still have shafts.

I planned to oil from the head with the same feed the 16g was using without problems.

I dont have balance shafts but I didnt think it would matter being the head sees a lot less pressure, and was hoping I didnt need any kinds of filters or restrictors.

So i take it these Holsets are sensitive to oil pressure?
 
I got the new holset today. looks great.

one thing I noticed is the "enhancement groove" is blocked off with a metal plate that looks to be secured with some sort of snap ring.

has anyone encountered or removed this? I want to get rid of it.
 
I got the new holset today. looks great.

one thing I noticed is the "enhancement groove" is blocked off with a metal plate that looks to be secured with some sort of snap ring.

has anyone encountered or removed this? I want to get rid of it.

Its a silencer...you can remove it
 
just pull the ring up through the inlet and pull the block-off out, its pretty simple
 
Skinny flathead screwdriver to pry it out and a reg sized flathead to hold it up and finishing working around the edge.

Once the clip is out, the silencer ring falls out
 
Ronnie, If I'm correct I remember you posting somewhere that your o2 housing turbine outlet was 2 3/8" (Less then 2.5"). From what I remember the turbine housing outlet on the BEP housing is about 2-3/4 or 2-7/8"

We all know the huge step in size and that lip will cause turbulence... is it possible that it was causing so much turbulence, so close to the turbine wheel, that the turbulence actually worked to throw the wheel off balance and help bend the shaft/chip the blades?

Just some food for thought..
 
I think too much pressure would surely botch the seals, making the turbo smoke, but certainly not grenande in this fashion. Too little could surely hurt the bearing, but I just can't see too much oil pressure doing this unless the unit was smoking for a prolonged period of time, meaning the seals would be so damaged that there wasn't enough pressure to lubricate the CHRA.
 
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