I have just completed my awd conversion on my 95 Eagle Talon. I know that there are articles for this type of thing, but they didn't help in certain instances. I hope to clearify a few things from the start, to save time and money. At the top here i will tell you what i found to work parts wise, such as which parts you can use and which ones you will have to buy.
If you still have questions about the swap and need an answer, please don't hesitate to contact me. It's nice to have someone who knows what your getting into. If you need a quick answer and can't wait, you can contact me via my cell phone.
E-mail: [email protected]
Cell Phone
330)703-9861
Parts List:----------------------------------------
Transmission: (See bottom for additional information*)
-this depens on the year of your vehicle. To the best of my knowledge you need a 95-96 transmission with a 95-96 car. If you have a 97+, then you need a 97+ transmission.
-Don't worry about spline count, as all 2gs gave a 23 spline count transmission.
Transfer case: (See bottom for additional information*)
-This must be from a 7 bolt.
-This must be from a 5 speed car.
Rear Diff:
-I am not completely sure which ones will work with what years. I know theres a huge thing where some are locking and some are unlocking. LSD and so forth. All i can tell you is that I put a 98 rear diff in my car and it worked just fine.
-This MUST be from a 5 speed car as the gear ratios are differen't for the autos and manuals.
Front Driver axle:
-This must be from a 95-99 AWD 5 SPEED. I can't stress this enough. Most computers at junkyards will show that autos and 5 speeds are the same. They are not, as the intermediate shafts are different.
-Do not buy an aftermarket one, the ones from napa, autozone and advance are all wrong and won't fit.
Front Passenger axle:
-I was able to buy one at autozone that fit. Just make sure you order it for a 5 speed.
Clutch fluid line:
-You can use a pipe bender and such. Don't waste your time, buy the stainless steel line from slowboy racing. It's like 75 bucks and will save you loads of time and frustration.
Flywheel to crankshaft bolts:
-These need to be for a 5 speed. The bolts that are in the automatic are too short, so don't reuse them.
Shifter Assembly:
-This doesn't have to be from a turbo. Non turbos use the same one.
Brake and Clutch Pedal:
-Can be from a TURBO or NON-TURBO
Shifter Cables:
-Can be from a TURBO or NON-TURBO
Flywheel:
-CANNOT use a FWD flywheel with an AWD and vice versa.
Clutch:
Clutch Slave:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
A lot of people recommend starting with the pedels. I don't think this is the best choice. I completed the pedal install in one night. My whole project took 5 weeks due to waiting for parts. I would start with removing the transmission. Then, when your waiting for help or parts, you can work on the pedals and shifter.
Start by draining the fluids from your transmission, transfer case and rear diff. The best way to do this is to remove the rear diff, then transfer case, then transmission. The reason i picked this order was because you can unbolt the rear diff from the driveshaft, then pop it out of the transfer case. Your exhaust has to come off while your here too.
Lets take the rear diff out now. There are 3 bolts that hold it to a mount that have to come out and 2 up above. There are also 4 bolts that hold it to the driveshaft. If you put a hydrolic jack right underneath it, about 1in then the rear diff will come down and you can have an easier time removing the axles. To remove the axles you can do it a couple different ways. The easiest way is to unbolt the lower control arm from the frame and the other little arm. This allows you to pull on the hub a little bit, just enough. Take a screw drive and pop out the axles from the rear diff and then if someone pulls a little bit on the hub you should be able to remove them completely from the diff. Don't bolt the new one up just yet.
Now your best bet is to loosen up the mounting nuts on the driveshaft and pop it out of the transfer case. You won't even need a screw drive. It comes right out. Now you can unbolt the transfer case from the transmission. This is held to it by 5 bolts i believe. You should be able to then pull it off the splines on the transmission. While your down here, you should see a lower flywheel cover plate. It is held up by 3 bolts. Yeah, you will need a new one of these. The ones for a manual are differennt. The dealer has these for $12.
This is the toughest part i think. LABEL and PUT all of your bolts in SAFE places. They are all different sizes out of the tranny. Stay organized! You will have to remove all of things that are blocking your access your transmission mounts and plugs. Your intake, intercooler piping, battery and such should be removed as well. If you have emissions stuff still in there, you might have to move that outta the way as well. You should see several plugs on the transmission. These all have to be unplugged. Put a hydrolic jack under the transmissinon. The transmission is held up by 3 mounts. Remove the lower one first and the frame brace bar as well so you can get a jack under the transmission to lower it down in a little bit. Remove the bolts in these so that the transmission brackets seperate from the rubber mounts. Next you have several bolts going around the transmission that connects it to the engine. Those need to come out as well as the starter and bolts. The started is on the firewall side of the transmission and held on by 2 bolts. Also, you need to do what you did to the rear axles so you can pop them out of the transmission. Unfortunately, neither of these axles will work with the manual transmission. At this point, if i haven't forgotten any bolts, the transmission should pull off the engine. It is VERY heavy so have a friend there to help you lower it on the jack. You will have to manuver it a bit to get it down most likely.
At this point you should see the flexplate. It is held on by 7 bolts. These are very very tight. I recommend a breaker bar over an impact air gun. I stipped 2 bolts this way. If you happen to stip these get the set of sockets that sears craftsman makes that take out rounded bolts. They worked like a charm for me. After you take the flexplate off you should see a little ring lookin thing sticking out from around where you would bolt the flywheel up. The flywheel you put on MUST fit flush, nothing inbetween. This is a spacer, only on automatics. What you have to do to remove this is pact the whole full of grease, i used cv grease. Get a wooden rod to fit snuggly into the whole and pound on it with a hammer. It will bring the ring out in a coupld pounds. Don't try to use a screw driver on it, it is pressed in. You will also see a metal plate where theres a whole for the starter and such. You need to remove this and make sure all the holes like up with the new starter, mine didn't. My tranny bolts all lined up thou. Drill what you must to get the new one to fit.
Now your ready to install your flywheel and clutch. Do this by following instructions from a manual or a friend if your not quite sure how. Also, install a new throw out bearing on your new manual trans. This is what i didn't do and had to remove my tranny after i completed install. While the tranny is out, drill out the hole in the firewall for the new shifter cables.
Installation of the new tranny is reverse of the removal.
Once your new tranny is up. You can plug your speed sensor in, the one that looks like this [ - - - ] . There is one other plug from your automatic you need to know about. It is the biggest plug. There should be 3 rows of wires goin into it. What you have to do is cut the wires on the far ends, of the middle row and wire them together in order for your car to start. Connect your shifter cables to the transmission. You can put back your engine bay stuff now, intake, intercooler pipes, etc.
Bolt up your new transfer case. Pop your driveshaft in as well. Install your new rear diff and pop the axles in. Put your exhaust back up as well.
If you haven't installed your shifter and pedals do so now. The steering wheel column must be removed as well as the plastic moulding, air vents and such in your way down there. Make sure to remove the plugs going to the steering wheel column. Don't complain, just do it. Its not that bad. The hold pedals come out with a couple of nuts removed and a sensor for you brake. When you get the pedals out, you should be able to look up and see what you have to drill out for the clutch master to fit into the pedal. I used a smaller drill bit and drill many little whole around in a circle and punched it out with a hammer and screw driver. After doing so, your ready to install the clutch pedal. Just bolt it up and connect the clutch master. Then do the brake pedal. You will have to cut your old brake plug and wire it into the new plug, they are different shapes. Now you can put everything here back together.
The shifter is self explanitory really. Just remove your center console and unbolt it. disconnect the cables. Bolt down the new one and bingo, your done. You need to add your shift boot and stuff here of course.
Fill your rear diff, transfer case, and transmission with the correct fluids. You can flush them if you wish, i did. Especially would want to if you bought them from a junkyard.
You should be good to start her up. Be easy for the first 500 miles for your clutch to break in properly.
In the attempt to guide you with this process, it is possible i have forgot to mention things. For this i apologize. If something doesn't seem right, contact me.
*This is from dsmtuners member "rodent". This is what he says as well.
"You can put any 95-99 MT Transmission into any 2g turbo AWD. I have installed a 99 transmission into a 95 with no problems.
If you have a 97-99 tranny, you have to use 97-99 tcase since the gearing in the trans and t-case is different than 95-96.
If you have a 95-96 tranny, you can use 91-96 t-case. This would include a 6 bolt 23 spline tcase. I actually used a 91 t-case with my 95 trans."
YouTube - 2G DSM Transmission Differences
If you still have questions about the swap and need an answer, please don't hesitate to contact me. It's nice to have someone who knows what your getting into. If you need a quick answer and can't wait, you can contact me via my cell phone.
E-mail: [email protected]
Cell Phone
330)703-9861Parts List:----------------------------------------
Transmission: (See bottom for additional information*)
-this depens on the year of your vehicle. To the best of my knowledge you need a 95-96 transmission with a 95-96 car. If you have a 97+, then you need a 97+ transmission.
-Don't worry about spline count, as all 2gs gave a 23 spline count transmission.
Transfer case: (See bottom for additional information*)
-This must be from a 7 bolt.
-This must be from a 5 speed car.
Rear Diff:
-I am not completely sure which ones will work with what years. I know theres a huge thing where some are locking and some are unlocking. LSD and so forth. All i can tell you is that I put a 98 rear diff in my car and it worked just fine.
-This MUST be from a 5 speed car as the gear ratios are differen't for the autos and manuals.
Front Driver axle:
-This must be from a 95-99 AWD 5 SPEED. I can't stress this enough. Most computers at junkyards will show that autos and 5 speeds are the same. They are not, as the intermediate shafts are different.
-Do not buy an aftermarket one, the ones from napa, autozone and advance are all wrong and won't fit.
Front Passenger axle:
-I was able to buy one at autozone that fit. Just make sure you order it for a 5 speed.
Clutch fluid line:
-You can use a pipe bender and such. Don't waste your time, buy the stainless steel line from slowboy racing. It's like 75 bucks and will save you loads of time and frustration.
Flywheel to crankshaft bolts:
-These need to be for a 5 speed. The bolts that are in the automatic are too short, so don't reuse them.
Shifter Assembly:
-This doesn't have to be from a turbo. Non turbos use the same one.
Brake and Clutch Pedal:
-Can be from a TURBO or NON-TURBO
Shifter Cables:
-Can be from a TURBO or NON-TURBO
Flywheel:
-CANNOT use a FWD flywheel with an AWD and vice versa.
Clutch:
Clutch Slave:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
A lot of people recommend starting with the pedels. I don't think this is the best choice. I completed the pedal install in one night. My whole project took 5 weeks due to waiting for parts. I would start with removing the transmission. Then, when your waiting for help or parts, you can work on the pedals and shifter.
Start by draining the fluids from your transmission, transfer case and rear diff. The best way to do this is to remove the rear diff, then transfer case, then transmission. The reason i picked this order was because you can unbolt the rear diff from the driveshaft, then pop it out of the transfer case. Your exhaust has to come off while your here too.
Lets take the rear diff out now. There are 3 bolts that hold it to a mount that have to come out and 2 up above. There are also 4 bolts that hold it to the driveshaft. If you put a hydrolic jack right underneath it, about 1in then the rear diff will come down and you can have an easier time removing the axles. To remove the axles you can do it a couple different ways. The easiest way is to unbolt the lower control arm from the frame and the other little arm. This allows you to pull on the hub a little bit, just enough. Take a screw drive and pop out the axles from the rear diff and then if someone pulls a little bit on the hub you should be able to remove them completely from the diff. Don't bolt the new one up just yet.
Now your best bet is to loosen up the mounting nuts on the driveshaft and pop it out of the transfer case. You won't even need a screw drive. It comes right out. Now you can unbolt the transfer case from the transmission. This is held to it by 5 bolts i believe. You should be able to then pull it off the splines on the transmission. While your down here, you should see a lower flywheel cover plate. It is held up by 3 bolts. Yeah, you will need a new one of these. The ones for a manual are differennt. The dealer has these for $12.
This is the toughest part i think. LABEL and PUT all of your bolts in SAFE places. They are all different sizes out of the tranny. Stay organized! You will have to remove all of things that are blocking your access your transmission mounts and plugs. Your intake, intercooler piping, battery and such should be removed as well. If you have emissions stuff still in there, you might have to move that outta the way as well. You should see several plugs on the transmission. These all have to be unplugged. Put a hydrolic jack under the transmissinon. The transmission is held up by 3 mounts. Remove the lower one first and the frame brace bar as well so you can get a jack under the transmission to lower it down in a little bit. Remove the bolts in these so that the transmission brackets seperate from the rubber mounts. Next you have several bolts going around the transmission that connects it to the engine. Those need to come out as well as the starter and bolts. The started is on the firewall side of the transmission and held on by 2 bolts. Also, you need to do what you did to the rear axles so you can pop them out of the transmission. Unfortunately, neither of these axles will work with the manual transmission. At this point, if i haven't forgotten any bolts, the transmission should pull off the engine. It is VERY heavy so have a friend there to help you lower it on the jack. You will have to manuver it a bit to get it down most likely.
At this point you should see the flexplate. It is held on by 7 bolts. These are very very tight. I recommend a breaker bar over an impact air gun. I stipped 2 bolts this way. If you happen to stip these get the set of sockets that sears craftsman makes that take out rounded bolts. They worked like a charm for me. After you take the flexplate off you should see a little ring lookin thing sticking out from around where you would bolt the flywheel up. The flywheel you put on MUST fit flush, nothing inbetween. This is a spacer, only on automatics. What you have to do to remove this is pact the whole full of grease, i used cv grease. Get a wooden rod to fit snuggly into the whole and pound on it with a hammer. It will bring the ring out in a coupld pounds. Don't try to use a screw driver on it, it is pressed in. You will also see a metal plate where theres a whole for the starter and such. You need to remove this and make sure all the holes like up with the new starter, mine didn't. My tranny bolts all lined up thou. Drill what you must to get the new one to fit.
Now your ready to install your flywheel and clutch. Do this by following instructions from a manual or a friend if your not quite sure how. Also, install a new throw out bearing on your new manual trans. This is what i didn't do and had to remove my tranny after i completed install. While the tranny is out, drill out the hole in the firewall for the new shifter cables.
Installation of the new tranny is reverse of the removal.
Once your new tranny is up. You can plug your speed sensor in, the one that looks like this [ - - - ] . There is one other plug from your automatic you need to know about. It is the biggest plug. There should be 3 rows of wires goin into it. What you have to do is cut the wires on the far ends, of the middle row and wire them together in order for your car to start. Connect your shifter cables to the transmission. You can put back your engine bay stuff now, intake, intercooler pipes, etc.
Bolt up your new transfer case. Pop your driveshaft in as well. Install your new rear diff and pop the axles in. Put your exhaust back up as well.
If you haven't installed your shifter and pedals do so now. The steering wheel column must be removed as well as the plastic moulding, air vents and such in your way down there. Make sure to remove the plugs going to the steering wheel column. Don't complain, just do it. Its not that bad. The hold pedals come out with a couple of nuts removed and a sensor for you brake. When you get the pedals out, you should be able to look up and see what you have to drill out for the clutch master to fit into the pedal. I used a smaller drill bit and drill many little whole around in a circle and punched it out with a hammer and screw driver. After doing so, your ready to install the clutch pedal. Just bolt it up and connect the clutch master. Then do the brake pedal. You will have to cut your old brake plug and wire it into the new plug, they are different shapes. Now you can put everything here back together.
The shifter is self explanitory really. Just remove your center console and unbolt it. disconnect the cables. Bolt down the new one and bingo, your done. You need to add your shift boot and stuff here of course.
Fill your rear diff, transfer case, and transmission with the correct fluids. You can flush them if you wish, i did. Especially would want to if you bought them from a junkyard.
You should be good to start her up. Be easy for the first 500 miles for your clutch to break in properly.
In the attempt to guide you with this process, it is possible i have forgot to mention things. For this i apologize. If something doesn't seem right, contact me.
*This is from dsmtuners member "rodent". This is what he says as well.
"You can put any 95-99 MT Transmission into any 2g turbo AWD. I have installed a 99 transmission into a 95 with no problems.
If you have a 97-99 tranny, you have to use 97-99 tcase since the gearing in the trans and t-case is different than 95-96.
If you have a 95-96 tranny, you can use 91-96 t-case. This would include a 6 bolt 23 spline tcase. I actually used a 91 t-case with my 95 trans."
YouTube - 2G DSM Transmission Differences
