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1G Competition Clutch Stage 3 issue

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turbotom

20+ Year Contributor
104
11
Sep 27, 2003
New Bedford, Massachusetts
I recently installed a Competition Clutch Stage 3 clutch kit (part #5048-2600) with a new master and slave (1g 92 Eagle Talon AWD 5spd) Clutch will not disengage allowing me to shift, adjusted pedal (maxed out throw) and used a custom extended rod that gave me another 1/4 of inch which barely disengaged the clutch where the pedal height is right at the floor. I'm thinking I have a issue with my master maybe not be correct for the car seeing that the part is from O' Reilly's AutoParts and the adjustment rod isn't long enough 🤷🏻‍♂️. I got this clutch from a friend that we swap parts and is brand new in a box. Has anyone here have this issue with Competition Clutch like that before? This is my second clutch with CC on 2 different cars and the last car was totally fine with no issues but different stage (stage 2 I believe). Lmk, thanks for you help guys.
 
and the adjustment rod isn't long enough 🤷🏻‍♂️

I mean there's your problem. Master cylinder should have a 5/8 stamp on it, indicating piston diameter. Compare the bodies and stamps with your OEM one you took off. If they are the same, you can simply swap your OEM rod on the new master. There is a circlip you can pry out and the rod comes out. Clean it from the old grease and put it on the new master. Then adjust as per the FSM. Did you resurface your flywheel and check step height?
 
I recently installed a Competition Clutch Stage 3 clutch kit (part #5048-2600) with a new master and slave (1g 92 Eagle Talon AWD 5spd) Clutch will not disengage allowing me to shift, adjusted pedal (maxed out throw) and used a custom extended rod that gave me another 1/4 of inch which barely disengaged the clutch where the pedal height is right at the floor. I'm thinking I have a issue with my master maybe not be correct for the car seeing that the part is from O' Reilly's AutoParts and the adjustment rod isn't long enough 🤷🏻‍♂️. I got this clutch from a friend that we swap parts and is brand new in a box. Has anyone here have this issue with Competition Clutch like that before? This is my second clutch with CC on 2 different cars and the last car was totally fine with no issues but different stage (stage 2 I believe). Lmk, thanks for you help guys.
Try reading this.

 
This could be anything from your clutch pedal assembly, bad master / slave, improper adjustment, air in system, mixture of air in system with improper adjustment, flywheel step height, wrong master cylinder bore, bent clutch fork, etc.

This doesn't sound like the clutch's fault unless it was installed improperly as well.
 
I mean there's your problem. Master cylinder should have a 5/8 stamp on it, indicating piston diameter. Compare the bodies and stamps with your OEM one you took off. If they are the same, you can simply swap your OEM rod on the new master. There is a circlip you can pry out and the rod comes out. Clean it from the old grease and put it on the new master. Then adjust as per the FSM. Did you resurface your flywheel and check step height?
Ok I'll double check to see if it's says 5/8 seeing when I bought this car it's literally had nothing and was basically a shell of a car so the stock master was missing.

Also not sure if the part (Clutch Master) they gave me would be adequate and correct for my car which I would have to look into it. 21 years dealing with clutch issues with these cars I'm just probably over thinking it but I was curious to see if anyone had a issue with the clutch I was using and maybe there is something I over looked.
 
I always suspect flywheel step height when everything else checks out.
Yeah it's stock that I had resurfaced and unfortunately I didn't check the step height which could be a issue for me but didn't think it would be that far off to the point if won't go in gear. I was just trying to put the car together quick and used whatever resources I had laying around because it's a project that I'm building using very little money to do oval spectator drag racing with so I was trying to keep the cost down so I down break the bank seeing I'm upgrading my drag car 😔 That's DSM life for you🤦🏻‍♂️
 
This could be anything from your clutch pedal assembly, bad master / slave, improper adjustment, air in system, mixture of air in system with improper adjustment, flywheel step height, wrong master cylinder bore, bent clutch fork, etc.

This doesn't sound like the clutch's fault unless it was installed improperly as well.

This could be anything from your clutch pedal assembly, bad master / slave, improper adjustment, air in system, mixture of air in system with improper adjustment, flywheel step height, wrong master cylinder bore, bent clutch fork, etc.

This doesn't sound like the clutch's fault unless it was installed improperly as well.
I figure I ask because I was using ACT for 3/4s of my years working on DSMs which I started to venture off to other brands and found some of these companies had a better pedal feel unlike ACT with their "leg day" work out gym clutch pedal 😆 Not only that, some of these companies have better torque rating with a better clutch pedal feel so naturally getting older and wanting more holding power with a better feel made more sense to me 😆 I was so used to ACT and their "tricks/life hacks" to get them to work so I got to wonder if Competition Clutch had the same issues or someone had the same issues.
 
I mean there's your problem. Master cylinder should have a 5/8 stamp on it, indicating piston diameter. Compare the bodies and stamps with your OEM one you took off. If they are the same, you can simply swap your OEM rod on the new master. There is a circlip you can pry out and the rod comes out. Clean it from the old grease and put it on the new master. Then adjust as per the FSM. Did you resurface your flywheel and check step height?

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Here is my long rod I made for the master, hopefully I can get it into gear without grinding and the pedal height not down to the floor to at least move it around because pushing a dead car sucks 🤦🏻‍♂️

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You've been around long enough I'm sure. I would check the pedal assembly and make sure it isn't an issue. That rod is long enough I would hate to see it bottom out and further destroy the pedal assembly or worse.
 
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