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Cometic Head Gasket/ARP Stud set up questions

endlessMyk

Proven Member
792
4
May 3, 2004
State College, Pennsylvania
Recently I blew my head gasket and figured since I'm replacing it, might as well step up a little bit. I've got the 7 bolt 94 and got the cometic gasket along with ARP head studs. I know with the 6 bolt you have to cut one of the motor mounts, do you have to cut it with the 7 bolt as well? Also, any other advice you could give while doing this replacement would be helpful, this is my first time pulling the head, if you have any tips/tricks that I should remember, feel free to post them. Thanks.
 

resilva

Proven Member
29
3
Mar 7, 2004
Los Angeles, California
You do NOT need to cut the motor mount bracket nor did you ever have to. Tom Stangl's VFAQ was the first to preach this mod.

I've installed a new head gasket onto both a 1st gen 6 bolt & 1st gen 7 bolt blocks and never had to cut the bracket.

With ARPs you use to have to hand thread the studs into the block then drop the head directly over the studs to mate it back to the block.

Problem was that when you drop the head straight down like that part of the head got hung up on the driver's side motor mount bracket bolted to front left side of the motor.

The real solution without having to cut the motor mount bracket is to loosen the four bolts
on the bracket and pull it the inch or so it needs to have the head drop down on the block.

Main reason Tom did this mod was because if you were going to take the head on and off frequently you could avoid loosing the bracket and simply slide the head straight up.

Now all this is a mute point because ARP now sells it's head studs for DSMs with an allen wrench hole on top of each head stud.

You now just install the head to the block at a slight angle as to avoid the motor mount bracket and then once the head and block are mated up, you drop in the ARP head studs just like the stock bolts.

Then take the allen wrench and insert it on top of the head stud to hand tighten the stud into the block.

Best advise I can give is to have a Chrysler or Mitsu Shop Manual on hand or at least a print out of the section on removing the cylinder head gasket.

I never fully trust internet pic how-to's unless they come recommended by someone
I trust.


Hope this helps,

-Richard Silva-
'93 :talon: Talon TSi



endlessMyk said:
Recently I blew my head gasket and figured since I'm replacing it, might as well step up a little bit. I've got the 7 bolt 94 and got the cometic gasket along with ARP head studs. I know with the 6 bolt you have to cut one of the motor mounts, do you have to cut it with the 7 bolt as well? Also, any other advice you could give while doing this replacement would be helpful, this is my first time pulling the head, if you have any tips/tricks that I should remember, feel free to post them. Thanks.
 

spshocker61

Proven Member
187
0
Oct 30, 2002
Albion, Indiana
Being your first time, here's a few tips i learned after doing mine a year ago ;)

1) label the hoses and plugs w/ either colored elec tape or scotch tape thats written on...i think i spent about a total of 1 hr tryin to figure out where the last gosh darn vac hose plugged in...i was about rdy to take a BFH to the damb thing.

2) if your anywhere near due for your T belt....now is the time to do it. Along w/ the tensioners and the BS belt.

3) while your head is off....get a carbon brush for a drill and take it to the tops of those cylinders. They will have some carbon buildup and it never hurts to shine em up a lil.

4) pull the gosh damb hood off before you start. i would imagine it has already crossed your mind...but some ppl wouldnt think of it, LOL. It's only 4 bolts...makes things a ton easier.

5) Take the head to your local machine shop (sometiems NAPA) and have the deck checked for warpage. Theres nothing worse then bolting it back together with warped head. A leakdown test never hurts either if you have the extra $$


Thats bout it atm...if i think of antying else ill let ya know. GL....and you're going to learn a lot :thumb:
 

endlessMyk

Proven Member
792
4
May 3, 2004
State College, Pennsylvania
spshocker61 said:
1) label the hoses and plugs w/ either colored elec tape or scotch tape thats written on...i think i spent about a total of 1 hr tryin to figure out where the last gosh darn vac hose plugged in...i was about rdy to take a BFH to the damb thing.

Watched a friend swap an engine a few months ago and he forgot to label shite. I told myself then to always make sure to label my bolts, hoses, etc...

spshocker61 said:
2) if your anywhere near due for your T belt....now is the time to do it. Along w/ the tensioners and the BS belt.

It has roughly 10k miles on it. Still looks in great shape. (Tried all the little "tests" to see if it needs replaced.

spshocker61 said:
3) while your head is off....get a carbon brush for a drill and take it to the tops of those cylinders. They will have some carbon buildup and it never hurts to shine em up a lil.

4) pull the gosh damb hood off before you start. i would imagine it has already crossed your mind...but some ppl wouldnt think of it, LOL. It's only 4 bolts...makes things a ton easier.

Thanks. Did think about the hood puling. Definitely a good idea.

spshocker61 said:
5) Take the head to your local machine shop (sometiems NAPA) and have the deck checked for warpage. Theres nothing worse then bolting it back together with warped head. A leakdown test never hurts either if you have the extra $$

Uncle is a machinist, so it's all taken care of. Thanks a lot for your help.
 

poorboyj

Proven Member
87
3
Jun 17, 2004
Dayton, Ohio
Cometic recommends installing this gasket on a clean, dry, smooth, flat surface.
 

jltcat

Proven Member
187
2
Dec 1, 2002
somewhere, New_Hampshire
Personally I would never take anything to NAPA. Just my two cents.
 

MNGSX

Proven Member
2,538
25
Mar 30, 2003
Bloomington, Minnesota
poorboyj said:
Cometic recommends installing this gasket on a clean, dry, smooth, flat surface.


If it has Viton rubber on the gasket in places then dont spray...

I have seen some MLS gaskets w/o that and on dead soft copper gaskets I use it too.. However, when you have rubber seals built in cometic is right..
 

endlessMyk

Proven Member
792
4
May 3, 2004
State College, Pennsylvania
jltcat said:
Personally I would never take anything to NAPA. Just my two cents.


WTF W T F does that have to do with anything???
 

spshocker61

Proven Member
187
0
Oct 30, 2002
Albion, Indiana
It all depends who does the machining at your NAPA....ours is family owned and the guy who does the machining...he's pretty good. He's done his share of machine work to earn my trust.
 

endlessMyk

Proven Member
792
4
May 3, 2004
State College, Pennsylvania
The machinig isnt done at NAPA, he works for some machine shop making bombs and such. I don't trust the NAPA around here, saw where the other guy said about gettiing it done at NAPA, sorry for the W T F.
 
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