Code 12????

[whiteclaw95]

I did the key dance and came up with code 12 and code 43.

Ill start with code 43. in my Haynes manual it says this code is a misfire on one or more cylinders. Spark plug, injector, cylinder compression or air intake problem.
According to http://troublecodes.net/mitsu/ this code is an egr fault. Dont know which is correct do you???

Code 12 is not listed in my manual. After looking at http://troublecodes.net/mitsu/ I found out this code is for an airflow sensor which I have no clue which sensor that is where I have a map and not a maf.

Any help to shed the light will be helpful thanks guys

 

[Doug99RS]

J,

Thanks for the PM. I'll be honest with you the Key-Dance codes don't really help much and are quite vague. 12 just means that the battery has been disconnected recently. Ignore that code.

Code 43 could be:
-Misfire (cyl 1, 2, 3, 4, all, random)
-Ignition Coil Primary Circuit (Coil 1 or 2)

I prefer chasing fault codes using a generic scan tool reader or fully functional scan tool.

Be that as it may, take out one of license plate lights. It should be a small 194 bulb. Pull the wiring down gently without breaking them and spread them away from each other a little. You'll need to disconnect your coil connector and insert the light bulb wires in to two of the pins of the coil. There are three total.

The center pin should be used for one wire of the light bulb and insert the other wire in to one of the outboard pins of the connector. Do NOT lay the bulb down on the engine, make sure it's insulated away from metal. Attempt to crank the engine. You should have short, bright bursts of light if the power wire for the coil is good and if the computer is attempting to make ONE of the coils provide spark.

Now, continue to use the center pin of the connector (i've been talking about the wiring harness side, not on the coil here) but go to the other outboard pin of the connector and repeat. This will tell you if the OTHER coil is being told to work.

If one is working but the other is not then you've got either a wire pinched somewhere or the computer is not trying to fire 1/2 of your coil pack.

If neither illuminate then verify that you have good power on the center wire when the key is initially turned on. If you have power then the computer is NOT permitting either coil from providing spark. This COULD be a computer failure but since it's BOTH coils it could also mean that the computer does not like other inputs (such as cam/crank signals) and therefore is shutting down spark.

If the light bulb illuminates on BOTH tests then check your coil using a multimeter. You set the meter to "ohms" and will measure from the center pin to one of the outboard pins. Expect to less than 2 ohms. Test the other outboard pin resistance to the middle pin as well. Again, this half of the coil should have a resistance of 2 ohms or less. If it's more than two ohms the book says to replace the coil. However, if we're talking 3 or 4 ohms then I would be hesitant about replacing it just yet.

I think I've given you enough info to go dive in to this thing. Please make sure you do all of the stuff I've suggested, document all of your findings and post them back in their entirety. The effectiveness of the info I can provide you is significantly reduced if I get incomplete or skipped test results.
Doug

 

[whiteclaw95]

Here is where I am at on my no start. My coil is getting good power on both of the sides with spark.

Resistance on 2/3 is 1.3ohms and 11,200 on 1/4 it is 1.5 and 11,400.

Fuel injectors are 1)12.4 2)12.5 3)12.3 4)12.5

ck sensor is 4.8 signal and 9.6 power with good ground

cm sensor is 4.8 signal and 8.6 power with good ground

Water temp sensor is in ohms spec and has 4.8v to it

TPS is 4.7ohms (cold)

When I go to start the car the fuel pump kicks in I have the spark. I hope this helps out.

 

[Doug99RS]

Here is where I am at on my no start. My coil is getting good power on both of the sides with spark.

Resistance on 2/3 is 1.3ohms and 11,200 on 1/4 it is 1.5 and 11,400.

Fuel injectors are 1)12.4 2)12.5 3)12.3 4)12.5

ck sensor is 4.8 signal and 9.6 power with good ground

cm sensor is 4.8 signal and 8.6 power with good ground

Water temp sensor is in ohms spec and has 4.8v to it

TPS is 4.7ohms (cold)

When I go to start the car the fuel pump kicks in I have the spark. I hope this helps out.

The injector resistance is good, it doesn't confirm that they are actuating but usually you'd get a P0201 through P0204 code if there were an electrical failure with the injector circuitry (includes computer, wiring to injectors, the injectors themselves and wiring from injectors).

The sensor signal voltage you have is... well, it's nice to see something but you can't properly test a signal of a cam/crank sensor using a simple multimeter. These two sensors create a specific type of signal (square wave pattern) and what you're actually reading is a voltage average of on time to off time. But at least you have SOMETHING coming out of these two sensors so we'll mark this info as helpful but not conclusive and see if we can find a problem in some other area.

The voltage for the ECT should change smoothly as the vehicle warms up. Typically a failing ECT will cause flooding or insufficient fuel causing long crank times or no-start conditions. Misfires is a possibility but I've not run across it in as long as I can remember.

The internal resistance of the coil circuit on the primary side seems to be in spec (over two ohms and we're supposed to replace the coil). I don't have specs in front of me for the secondary side of the coils but if you've got even numbers (like you do) then chances are we can rule out the coil itself.

We still need to go back and verify that we've got battery voltage on the ASD circuit at the coil and that each coil driver is properly grounding. This is the 194 light bulb test I mentioned earlier.

If you unplug an injector connector and insert the 194 bulb like explained before then it should flash as you crank the car over. This will should be the same for testing the coil circuits with the 194 bulb though I would expect either a slightly brighter or more flashing. What you should expect in either scenario is that there is a specific pattern to the flashing relative to the number of times that the engine rotates.

I'm leaning towards a pinched/chaffed/oil saturated wiring issue or the possibility that the computer has failed on one of the coil driver circuits. A coil or injector "driver circuit" is basically a circuit whose path to ground is provided by the computer. These circuits tend to fail in the event that there's a short somewhere else like an injector that has failed, wiring that has been pinched or damaged. It's common to find a failed computer but often times people don't fix the part that caused the computer to burn up and they end up replacing the computer multiple times before finding out what keeps fragging them.