Cockpit Adjustable Nitrous Setup
As with any non turbo making power can be quite a costly affair. While the turbo DSM owners have the luxury of cranking the boost up, we in the non turbo community arent so fortunate. In my humble opinion, the best way to make power is through the use of nitrous oxide. I made my car for cornering and back road sessions as opposed to drag racing, so 11 second time slips are not my goal. I use my nitrous in small amounts (35 shot) to boost coming out of tight turns or whenever I need a little harder acceleration. But what happens when I am driving on the highway and some ricer Honda wants to have a go. The 35 shot is not going to cut it. I decided I need to be able to switch between a 35 shot and a 65-70 shot at the flip of a switch.
I already had a Holley NOS brand dry system in my car with a purge solenoid. to do this mod you could use the solenoid from the purge kit or purchase another Holley Super Powershot solenoid, retail is somewhere in the area of $80.00. The plumbing is minimal and can be picked up at any Fastenal or other hardware supplier. For the purposes of this article Im basing this on the Holley NOS dry nitrous system. Im sure this could be applied to any other brand or type of system. I am also assuming you know the nitrous basics and are competent enough to do this install yourself.
To add this setup to your nitrous system you will need the following:
1 Fan Spray Nozzle NOS P/N 13500
1 Nozzle Mounting Collar NOS P/N 13710-S
1 Nozzle Mounting Nut NOS P/N 13711-S
1 3AN Hose with 1/8 NPT Male fitting NOS P/N 15060-1
1 Brass Street Tee 1/8 NPT Fastenal P/N 440102-131280
1 Brass Nipple 1/8 NPT Fastenal P/N 440054-131280
Appropriate Nitrous Jetting
Toggle switch, wiring, connectors, etc.
Determining Jetting:
Say that your primary nitrous shot is a 40 shot, the jetting for the fan spray nozzle is .030. A .030 diameter hole in a Holley dry system nitrous jet produces 40 hp, the surface area of this hole is = ðr² = 3.14159(.015)² = .000765in². So if we take .000765in² and double it, we get .001413in². So the cross sectional area of 2 .030 nitrous jets is .001413in². An 80 shot nitrous jet has a .042 diameter hole. The cross sectional area of this hole is .001385in². So as you can see the variance in area of the two jetting combinations is very small. Therefore 2, 40 shot nitrous jets, will produce approximately the equivalent of 1, 80 hp jet. As far as the bypass jetting goes, every car is different. Normally a .042 jet is used for about 50hp 80hp shot. With this system the optimal bypass jetting may vary upon your car/application.
My application will use a .028 jet (35 shot) for the primary nozzle, and a .026 jet (30 shot) for the secondary nozzle. I am currently running the .042 bypass jet until I can do some more fuel tuning to find the optimal setting.
Assembly:
The assembly of this setup is very basic and simple. I would use Teflon pipe sealant in a liquid/paste form as opposed to Teflon tape. If you use Teflon tape there is a chance that a piece could become dislodged and clog up parts of your nitrous system.
You will need to install a secondary fan spray nozzle into your intake track. I would recommend installing it at the same point as the other nozzle. Make sure however, that the new nozzle is not directly in front of, or behind the existing nozzle. This will insure the smoothest nitrous flow. Also make sure there is enough room to install the nitrous line without interference of the hood or any engine accessories.
1: Remove the existing braided line that runs from the solenoids to the fan spray nozzle.
2: Apply a small amount of Teflon pipe sealant onto one side of the 1/8 NPT nipple and screw it into the inlet port on the new Powershot nitrous solenoid.
3: Apply a small amount of Teflon pipe sealant onto the other side of the 1/8 NPT nipple and thread it into one branch of the brass street T. The branch choice should be the one that will provide the best flow for the primary nozzle and facilitate mounting of the setup in the space available in your engine bay.
4: Apply a small amount of Teflon pipe sealant to the male branch of the street T and thread the assembly into the out port of the 2nd nitrous solenoid (where the braided line that went into the existing fan spray nozzle was)
5: Depending on your configuration, you may need to insert a 45° or 90° fitting into the street T before inserting the braided line. This will put less stress on the braided line and will lead to a more professional appearance. Again make sure to apply some Teflon sealant.
6: Insert the NPT side of the braided line into the assembly and attach the AN fitting to the fan spray nozzle. This is the nozzle that will take your primary nitrous jetting.
7: Using Teflon paste, thread the NPT side of the second braided line into the out port on the solenoid you just added to your assembly. This line gets connected to the 2nd fan spray nozzle and uses your secondary jetting.
Wiring:
Wiring is a straightforward affair. Since there is no safety issue with the addition of this solenoid, a simple circuit is all thats required. I simply ran a wire from a 12 volt constant distribution block in my dash to a switch. From the switch, run a wire to one of the wires coming from the newly added solenoid. The second wire coming from the solenoid should be connected to a good clean ground.
When the switch is off the solenoid is closed, and the nitrous system functions as normal. When you flip the switch the solenoid stays open, providing flow to the secondary fan spray nozzle, and therefore provides the additional boost of horsepower. Make sure that you dont leave the switch on because of the current draw of the solenoid. You could wire it to a 12v source that only has power when the ignition is on to prevent a dead battery.
I apologize for the picture quality, all I have is a webcam so they'll have to do.
As with any non turbo making power can be quite a costly affair. While the turbo DSM owners have the luxury of cranking the boost up, we in the non turbo community arent so fortunate. In my humble opinion, the best way to make power is through the use of nitrous oxide. I made my car for cornering and back road sessions as opposed to drag racing, so 11 second time slips are not my goal. I use my nitrous in small amounts (35 shot) to boost coming out of tight turns or whenever I need a little harder acceleration. But what happens when I am driving on the highway and some ricer Honda wants to have a go. The 35 shot is not going to cut it. I decided I need to be able to switch between a 35 shot and a 65-70 shot at the flip of a switch.
I already had a Holley NOS brand dry system in my car with a purge solenoid. to do this mod you could use the solenoid from the purge kit or purchase another Holley Super Powershot solenoid, retail is somewhere in the area of $80.00. The plumbing is minimal and can be picked up at any Fastenal or other hardware supplier. For the purposes of this article Im basing this on the Holley NOS dry nitrous system. Im sure this could be applied to any other brand or type of system. I am also assuming you know the nitrous basics and are competent enough to do this install yourself.
To add this setup to your nitrous system you will need the following:
1 Fan Spray Nozzle NOS P/N 13500
1 Nozzle Mounting Collar NOS P/N 13710-S
1 Nozzle Mounting Nut NOS P/N 13711-S
1 3AN Hose with 1/8 NPT Male fitting NOS P/N 15060-1
1 Brass Street Tee 1/8 NPT Fastenal P/N 440102-131280
1 Brass Nipple 1/8 NPT Fastenal P/N 440054-131280
Appropriate Nitrous Jetting
Toggle switch, wiring, connectors, etc.
Determining Jetting:
Say that your primary nitrous shot is a 40 shot, the jetting for the fan spray nozzle is .030. A .030 diameter hole in a Holley dry system nitrous jet produces 40 hp, the surface area of this hole is = ðr² = 3.14159(.015)² = .000765in². So if we take .000765in² and double it, we get .001413in². So the cross sectional area of 2 .030 nitrous jets is .001413in². An 80 shot nitrous jet has a .042 diameter hole. The cross sectional area of this hole is .001385in². So as you can see the variance in area of the two jetting combinations is very small. Therefore 2, 40 shot nitrous jets, will produce approximately the equivalent of 1, 80 hp jet. As far as the bypass jetting goes, every car is different. Normally a .042 jet is used for about 50hp 80hp shot. With this system the optimal bypass jetting may vary upon your car/application.
My application will use a .028 jet (35 shot) for the primary nozzle, and a .026 jet (30 shot) for the secondary nozzle. I am currently running the .042 bypass jet until I can do some more fuel tuning to find the optimal setting.
Assembly:
The assembly of this setup is very basic and simple. I would use Teflon pipe sealant in a liquid/paste form as opposed to Teflon tape. If you use Teflon tape there is a chance that a piece could become dislodged and clog up parts of your nitrous system.
You will need to install a secondary fan spray nozzle into your intake track. I would recommend installing it at the same point as the other nozzle. Make sure however, that the new nozzle is not directly in front of, or behind the existing nozzle. This will insure the smoothest nitrous flow. Also make sure there is enough room to install the nitrous line without interference of the hood or any engine accessories.
1: Remove the existing braided line that runs from the solenoids to the fan spray nozzle.
2: Apply a small amount of Teflon pipe sealant onto one side of the 1/8 NPT nipple and screw it into the inlet port on the new Powershot nitrous solenoid.
3: Apply a small amount of Teflon pipe sealant onto the other side of the 1/8 NPT nipple and thread it into one branch of the brass street T. The branch choice should be the one that will provide the best flow for the primary nozzle and facilitate mounting of the setup in the space available in your engine bay.
4: Apply a small amount of Teflon pipe sealant to the male branch of the street T and thread the assembly into the out port of the 2nd nitrous solenoid (where the braided line that went into the existing fan spray nozzle was)
5: Depending on your configuration, you may need to insert a 45° or 90° fitting into the street T before inserting the braided line. This will put less stress on the braided line and will lead to a more professional appearance. Again make sure to apply some Teflon sealant.
6: Insert the NPT side of the braided line into the assembly and attach the AN fitting to the fan spray nozzle. This is the nozzle that will take your primary nitrous jetting.
7: Using Teflon paste, thread the NPT side of the second braided line into the out port on the solenoid you just added to your assembly. This line gets connected to the 2nd fan spray nozzle and uses your secondary jetting.
Wiring:
Wiring is a straightforward affair. Since there is no safety issue with the addition of this solenoid, a simple circuit is all thats required. I simply ran a wire from a 12 volt constant distribution block in my dash to a switch. From the switch, run a wire to one of the wires coming from the newly added solenoid. The second wire coming from the solenoid should be connected to a good clean ground.
When the switch is off the solenoid is closed, and the nitrous system functions as normal. When you flip the switch the solenoid stays open, providing flow to the secondary fan spray nozzle, and therefore provides the additional boost of horsepower. Make sure that you dont leave the switch on because of the current draw of the solenoid. You could wire it to a 12v source that only has power when the ignition is on to prevent a dead battery.
I apologize for the picture quality, all I have is a webcam so they'll have to do.
