The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support STM Tuned

Resolved Clutch won’t engage

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

98gstJames

Proven Member
218
41
May 25, 2022
WInchester, Virginia
Alright so I’ve been fighting with this clutch since I put the car back together and I just can’t figure out what’s going on. I have a brand new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and tob in the car, the master and slave cylinder were recently replaced, the pushrod in the new master cylinder was way too short but the cylinder is the same so I swapped rods with the oem one that came out of the car, I’ve tried bleeding the clutch multiple times and I still can’t get anything out of it, I have fluid coming out but I’m still not getting pressure, I can see the fork moving but I’m assuming not enough to engage the clutch, the fork is sitting at about the halfway point in the boot, I think I finally have the pedal adjusted correctly after messing with that for days as well, I’ve tried the pump, pump, pump, open valve, close valve, depress pedal, I’ve opened valve, press pedal, close valve, depress pedal, and I’m still getting nothing, I can shift through all the gears perfectly with the car off, the only thing that is an issue right now is my driver side cv axel is not seated all the way in, I’m not sure if this would cause me to not have clutch or not but I figured I’d add that, anyone have any ideas, when I had the trans apart nothing looked bent or broken and the clutch shifted just fine before with even a halfway burnt clutch, warn pressure plate and brunt flywheel so I’m not sure what’s going on. It’s just really giving me a whirl.
 
Do you still have the accumulator and factory lines in the car? Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder?
 
Do you still have the accumulator and factory lines in the car? Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder?
No the accumulator is out and I’m almost certain it’s still factory lines, I had the clutch bled perfectly fine before I had to pull the motor, now I’m having trouble with it, I wasn’t the one that put it in the car it was the previous owner, so I have no way of knowing If he bench bled it but it’d say so bc I had clutch before…
 
Interesting. What's the condition of the slave cylinder?
 
Buy the correct master cylinder. I've never ever heard of one having a " short rod"

Also Why isn't the CV axle seated in the trans? Why would you stop working on that to bleed the clutch

Sometimes to get the axle to seat you need to spin the axle so the clip can rotate and slide in using gravity to help it settle in to the correct position
 
Buy the correct master cylinder. I've never ever heard of one having a " short rod"
I have the oem one that the guy replaced with the exceedy one, the masters look the exact same it just came with a shorter rod for some reason, he replaced the slave cylinder with an exceedy one as well, I didn’t think it was a problem since I had clutch before but I thought about swapping them around just too see what happens but I didn’t want to put a bad one in but with the guy that owned it before Idek if it’s actually or not or if he just replaced to replace it when he did the clutch, so I just wasn’t sure if there was something I was missing or not.

Did you do the squeeze the slave cyl shut air purge described in Step Two here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772.
BTW when you press the clutch pedal you are disengaging the clutch, not engaging it.
Actually no I didn’t, that could be a problem… I had remembered doing that when I first got the car but I was trying to find a procedure and I was just finding either pump pump, open then close, or open, pump, then close but I didn’t see that exact thread so I’m gonna be doing that and see if it doesn’t help.

Also Why isn't the CV axle seated in the trans? Why would you stop working on that to bleed the clutch

Sometimes to get the axle to seat you need to spin the axle so the clip can rotate and slide in using gravity to help it settle in to the correct position
I honestly didn’t notice it didn’t go all the way in when I put it all back together, I went to fill up the trans and saw it all coming right back out at the axel, I then noticed it wasn’t seated all the way in, that was my next move, just haven’t gotten to it yet.

Interesting. What's the condition of the slave cylinder?
It was also replaced when the master cylinder was replaced. Both are “exedy: equal under pressure” brand
 
I honestly didn’t notice it didn’t go all the way in when I put it all back together, I went to fill up the trans and saw it all coming right back out at the axel, I then noticed it wasn’t seated all the way in, that was my next move, just haven’t gotten to it yet.
Hold up a sec....you're trying to get the clutch to disengage which means the car is running but there is no fluid in the trans?
 
Hold up a sec....you're trying to get the clutch to disengage which means the car is running but there is no fluid in the trans?
No no, I put fluid in the trans it just is sitting in the bottom, if I fill it past the axel then it leaks, I haven’t tried putting it in gear with it on, just when it’s off, and I would put it in gear, hold in the clutch and have someone push the car to see if it was doing anything at all and it still hasn’t I just have like an inch of movement in the fork.
 
I’m gonna make sure I push the slave cylinder when I try it again after I get the cv axel seated right, and as far as the flywheel are you asking what I have in the car? If so it’s a act streetlite flywheel for 7-bolt dsm and it’s an exact match as far as looks and how it’s all shaped as the one that was in the car minus the hot spots the one I pulled out had…
 
I’m gonna make sure I push the slave cylinder when I try it again after I get the cv axel seated right, and as far as the flywheel are you asking what I have in the car? If so it’s a act streetlite flywheel for 7-bolt dsm and it’s an exact match as far as looks and how it’s all shaped as the one that was in the car minus the hot spots the one I pulled out had…
No I'm asking what is the step height? Did you read my thread?
 
That might explain your fork position. Whether or not it's a problem remains to be seen.
Alright so after I get the cv axel seated, should I try and bleed the clutch w the master cylinder that’s in the car, it looks exactly the same as the old oem one that was in the box of the new mc, or should I try to use the old one? It still has resistance to it when I push it in with a screwdriver but I know that doesn’t really mean anything. What’s my best move?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top