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2G Car dies when clutch pushed in fix

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Scoobystyl

10+ Year Contributor
277
1
Nov 5, 2011
Denver, Colorado
I'm not really sure where this should be posted but I've read multiple threads trying to figure out why the car would die everytime the clutch was pressed in and from what I saw nobody was able to figure out a fix, a lot of different opinions were thrown around like adjusting your BISS screw, checking your IAC position, plugs/wires, vacuum/boost leaks, and while all of these are good things to check and could play a part. However in my case everything was perfect but I replaced the PCV valve today and no more clutch issues.

In short if everything is in order and your still having issues with your car dying, try replacing your PCV valve.
 
It was at idle and rolling, with idle set to 1000 it would always die unless i raised the idle to 1500 then with the clutch pressed in it would drop to 1000.
You could tell that when the clutch was pressed in that something was going on with vacume
 
There are so many causes to dying when pushing the clutch in that it is hard to say a specific solution. PieEyedPiper I think actually helped me fix mine a while back. I had the ECU worked on by ECMTuning and I fixed two boost leaks in my piping. Ever since I have not had the issue again.

But I have seen people with throttle body issues, vacuum issues, etc. So you are on the right track. If it isn't doing it anymore I wouldn't really care what fixed it. I would just care that it is fixed.

Edit: Just went back and found the post. Sorry, wasn't you Piper LOL I know you have helped me out with SOMETHING though...

Here's what worked on my DSM:
Throttle body rebuild (biss o ring and shaft seals)
RTV BOV flange
Replace rotten vacuum lines
Replaced MAF (try testing with a known working unit before you spend the $$$)
BISS adjustment
ECU repair

Each of these made the car run a little better in every aspect, especially idle. I'm still buttoning down the last few leaks, but my smile gets bigger and bigger when she spools up :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What year DSM? Crank position sensor? If so worst case scenario is you have to much thrust clearance in your mains and crank trigger plate will rub or damage sensor. "Crank walk". Applying the clutch puts a lot of force on crank and does as I stated above (only if your thrust clearance is out of spec).

Jack up the beast remove the wheel and pull lower timing belt cover and check for any kind of damage to sensor or in-out play at crank pulley.

IMO crank walk is overrated and just more noticeable on engines running crank position sensor due to the in-out play. In out play on engines running cam angle sensors is less likely to be detected at an early stage because of the sensor not being in the way of a walking crank. Good luck bud
 
Desert dsm I actually fixed the issue by just replacing the PCV valve. I figured I'd get it on the forums that if your having issues with stalling when the clutch is compressed and you've checked all the simple issues and your still having problems buy a 2 dollar PCV valve and if that doesn't fix the issue then start looking into thrust bearing clearance and start saving for a rebuild.
 
[quote="Desert DSM, post: 153031845"If so worst case scenario is you have to much thrust clearance in your mains and crank trigger plate will rub or damage sensor. "Crank walk". Applying the clutch puts alot of force on crank and does as i stated above (only if your thrust clearance is out of speck). [/QUOTE]

Its common when you have a lighter than stock flywheel (which the op has) for the RPM to drop quickly when you push in the clutch and it sometimes causes the car to stall because the ECU can't adjust the ISC fast enough.
 
There was various things that i thought were contributing to the stalling, the flywheel, and these damn 1550s.... there so picky. im glad i got it working it was getting old having to use the ebrake to take off from a stop or reving like it was my first time dring a manual
 
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