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clutch problem?

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lilnicky

Probationary Member
16
1
Apr 7, 2005
lindenhurst, New York
I just wanted to see if theres anyway of a clutch going bad in an automatic and if so if there was an easy way to check and see if its gone or not. My car feels like it wont go into first until givin gas, if I dont give it gas it just sits there as if in neutral. The car left in drive or first wont roll at all usually unless on a slight hill down. Any ideas?
 
Automatics don't have a clutch, but I understand what you mean. The GSX is a heavy car, expecially with the automatic so the fact that it doesn't roll when in gear on a flat surface isn't an indicator that something's wrong. You may want to perfom upgrades however, which you can find in the tech guide at the top of the page (higher stall converter, better shifting).

Hope that makes sense,

Andy
 
Definetly start with general maintence, service the tranny (should help a ton). My rule of thumb is to atleast perform a good tune-up on any recently purchased vehicle.

Jake
 
oright i'm gonna give that all a try this week and i'll let you know how it goes. Thanks alot for the help guys
 
andymoraitis said:
Automatics don't have a clutch, but I understand what you mean. The GSX is a heavy car, expecially with the automatic so the fact that it doesn't roll when in gear on a flat surface isn't an indicator that something's wrong. You may want to perfom upgrades however, which you can find in the tech guide at the top of the page (higher stall converter, better shifting).

Hope that makes sense,

Andy

:rolleyes:
first there are quite a few clutches in all automatic transmission. What you're describing does seem to be a torque converter, or clutch problem. Either the torque converter has become too loose (basically the fluid isn't transferring power from the rotor to the stator) (i don't really see how this might have happened unless the torque converter was just "bad") Or you have 1st "gear" clutches that are worn and are slipping on each other (or possibly low/bad A/T fluid), when they should be fully engaged. In an Automatic transmission, fluid is used to apply pressure to a series of clutches, which then engages two parts of the planetary gear. (very simple description) if these are slipping, you could see a response similar to what you are describing. Either way, problems in auto trans are ALWAYS better to find sooner rather than later.

first thing you should do is check the trans fluid. smell it, if it smells distincly 'burnt" or has a brownish color rather than redish, it should be replaced.
 
I went by a tranny place today the guy told me that my tranny felt fine to him and he wants to just up my idle. Do you think this guy is just an idiot and I should try and get a few more opinions or just have them up my idle and see how it goes. I idle at about 500 rpms right now.
 
Park and drive with foot on the brake or off the brake it dont matter it all idles about 500 sometimes 600 and in neutral it idles slightly higher
 
lilnicky said:
Park and drive with foot on the brake or off the brake it dont matter it all idles about 500 sometimes 600 and in neutral it idles slightly higher

You should get the idle adjusted and then the fluid level checked.

Don't let them sell you anything else without questioning and discussing it here. Keep us posted.

Cheers,
GTM
 
oright im gonna have a friend do the idle for me sometime next week... im gonna have him put it to about 800. Then from there i was gonna do a complete trany fluid flush. Also how important is it to get the tranny fluid right from mits? I know it calls for a certain type but is that mits way of just making us pay more or will it really make a difference?
 
lilnicky said:
oright im gonna have a friend do the idle for me sometime next week... im gonna have him put it to about 800. Then from there i was gonna do a complete trany fluid flush. Also how important is it to get the tranny fluid right from mits? I know it calls for a certain type but is that mits way of just making us pay more or will it really make a difference?

That makes sense, I've done a lot of transmission flushes and some were effective, some seemed like a waste of money, and some produced what I thought were noticible results.

Here is my classic argument not meant to intemidate or make decisions: You would not use a cube of butter that was a year old for you can smell and taste the difference.

You should only eat what is good for your body and you should respect your engine with same. Oil is like blood, it only reflects what it is given.

I can't advise on which oil to buy, but it is standard policy to write on a repair order "customer supplied ~". That means I guarantee I changed the ~ in accord with standard shop practices but if the oil causes problems then you will have to fight your own battles.

Cheers,
GTM
 
oright off topic and dont need no advice just wanna bi***.... i filled up with 93 last night. Put about 10 gallons in to the tank. Turned on the car the car started smokin and buckin couldnt get it out of first wouldnt rev past 2000 rpms. To make a long story short got the gas drained today turns out it was pure water. Just a hint of gas in there. You can actually drop a match into the "gas" and the match goes out. My mchanicc took all the gas out put new gas in with some dry gas, changed the gas filter, and the oil was burnt.. i guess from running so hard so he changed that to. Well thats it, I guess if anyone knows anything i should watch out for with the car that could of gone bad let me know. Cause BP is gonna pick up the tab for damn sure LOL
 
lilnicky said:
...
To make a long story short got the gas drained today turns out it was pure water. Just a hint of gas in there. You can actually drop a match into the "gas" and the match goes out. My mchanicc took all the gas out put new gas in with some dry gas, changed the gas filter, and the oil was burnt.. i guess from running so hard so he changed that to. Well thats it, I guess if anyone knows anything i should watch out for with the car that could of gone bad let me know. Cause BP is gonna pick up the tab for damn sure LOL

While this is off topic it should be noted that if you have kept receipts with milage written, and can show you traded at the same station in succession you will have a good chance of collecting.

Cheers,
GTM
 
My car does the same thing, bairly ever creeps up when off the brake. My car also idles at 650-700, so I don't think you have anything to worry about. If you really want the car to move, I'd sugjest upping the idle, that should help it creep forward when off the gas. The problem isn't that it's in neutral or anything, it's just not creating enough power to push the car.
 
MiCrOz said:
My car does the same thing, bairly ever creeps up when off the brake. My car also idles at 650-700, so I don't think you have anything to worry about. If you really want the car to move, I'd sugjest upping the idle, that should help it creep forward when off the gas. The problem isn't that it's in neutral or anything, it's just not creating enough power to push the car.

It's good to try and be helpful but passing judgment with "I don't think ~" when it involves complicated expensive machinery with little more than my car does xyz is nothing more than an unqualified testimonial or hear-say. It's little more helpful than the person who thought to offer that an automatic doesn't have clutch packs. Not every noise, hiccup, etc. fits all size shoes so unless you are prepared to offer more detailed council and testing procedure the Before You Reply #3 (~ I think~ should be considered).

Cheers,
GTM
 
oright i had the tranny flusheed today and i put ngk plugs with the msd wires... still no power off the line but it does feel like it is running smoother and gettin a little more power through the whole power band. As far as the bad gas i got, i changed the gas filter, cleaned the injectors, and changed the 02 sensor. So far the turbo and everything else seems to be oright. They want to do a leak down test on it tomorrow... thinking it may have a bad valve. He isn't going to charge me anything for doin the test either, I just wanted to know exaclty what the test was and if a bad valve would make sence from having bad gas in the car. thanks ahead time
 
yea i had the idle adjusted just a little bit its at about 700 all the time now when its idling... I noticed something today that may help people understand a lil more about the car. When u put it in first gear or low.. and start driving in most automatics u can get up to about 4 or 5 grand let go of the gas and the car costs back down nice and slow. With this one when u try that u get it up to about 2 grand not even that high and let go of the gas the car almost stops short. Feels like a hard hard downshift, the only problem being its already in first gear only goin about 15mph.
 
lilnicky said:
...
When u put it in first gear or low.. and start driving in most automatics u can get up to about 4 or 5 grand let go of the gas and the car costs back down nice and slow. With this one when u try that u get it up to about 2 grand not even that high and let go of the gas the car almost stops short. Feels like a hard hard downshift, the only problem being its already in first gear only goin about 15mph.

I'm not a DSM expert, and I know nothing about this automatic in specifics. In general shifting from drive into lower gears should help the car slow down when in the mountains going down hill and you don't wan't to be using your brakes all the time. This however, sounds a bit too severe and would throw you forward against the seat belt.

So you do have a problem which can be a minor adjustment, a vacuum valve, or could be coming from inside the transmission valve body which sunts the oil to perform different functions under a variety of conditions. How does it behave in D rive when you let off the gas and in Neutral and just coast to a stop??

Hopefully we can recruit some autotranny experts to join in here and get you some better advice.

Cheers,
GTM
 
I'm not really sure of what your actual complaint is, however, Mitsubishi has a system that works differently from most other vehicles.

With one of these vehicles, when you coast to a stop they will only downshift into second gear- not first.

This is engineered to not only cushion the shift shock on a rolling downshift, but also to prevent the car from trying to power forward while sitting stopped at an idle.

Sitting at a light or stop in gear at an idle, the car stays in second or what is referred to as "creep gear".

There is a switch incorporated into the TPS that will downshift the car back into first as soon as any throttle is applied to pull away from a stop.

Maybe this is what you are experiencing?

-John
 
That sounds exactly like what I am experiencing. That made alot of sence.. I cant believe that I had it to two different transmission places already and none of them knew that thats how these cars where made. The car still does feel like its slow off the line which I thought was a tranny problem. DO you think it still can be something with the tranny or should I focus my attention somewhere else. I just really want to be able to get off the line alot faster and it just feels very sluggish until the turbo kicks in... but then even switching to second gear it seems sluggish again. Thanks for the help though, now I understand why the car doesn't move just sitting at the lights.
 
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