Clutch pedal stops when pushed all the way, then can travel more when pushed harder.

[Eclipse2630]

Hey guys bare with me on this, I have searched and searched but didnt quite find an answer, so here is the situation in the best description possible. I had a ACT unsprung go bad, So i replaced it with a ACT 6 puck sprung clutch, ACT pressure plate and a fidanza FW with a Mitsu OEM TOB. after install we bled and bled and adjusted the best we could the same way we have done before, well with my car, When u push in the clutch on any other manual car all the way, it goes til it stops and will not go any farther, well mine, you push it until it stops and still has a good maybe inch and a half to 2inch distance from the floor. When you get the pedal to its "stopping point" if you push a little harder it will travel and extra inch but is very very stiff and basically feels like you are pushing against a stiff spring. Im not sure if the pivot ball needs shimmed or bent clutch fork. Or maybe we just messed up this one time and didnt adjust it correctly. I hope maybe someone out there had this issue and can chime in! I did notice my clutch pedal does click when pushed so im pretty sure i need a new Master but i dont think it would cause my main issue! please help!

anyone?

 

[Eclipse2630]

anyone?

 

[Fehrion_sit]

a guy at work had the same problem, to the dime. we were unable to solve the problem before the customer traded the car in. interested to see what the out come is. i think something is hanging up in the bell housing and that extra travel is you pushing against the thrust bearing and input bearing on the trans. i could be completely wrong.

 

[Timechg]

Is your car shifting fine with this setup? There is a long spring in the master cylinder, you might just be compressing the spring after all of the fluid is pushed out (if that makes sense).

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I can't tell you wth it is but this happen to my gf awd talon when she got it. Clutch was all the way at the floor so I adjusted it for her. When i did this happened. I didn't know what it was so i was like drive it for now but only push it down the first bit. It shifted in and out of gear fine. Next day she couldn't shift it and the clutch was all fubar working.

Decided to change the clutch. It was supposed to be a new one that po installed, but seeing how much of an idiot he was made me not trust the work.
When i removed the clutch it was 6 puck sprung disk. The TOB was exploded literally. It was all fubar jacked up, busted. The disk was completely worn out.

Also on the way to shop after clutching to downshift something locked up the engine. Pushed clutch in car coasted let it out in gear and it didnt even turn the engine. No rpm. In gear and rolling at 35 the engine showed no revs. Car stopped and i tried to start it. It was stuck. Few more starter bumps it started and didn't happen again. Drove it to the shop.

I installed an exedy oem replacement clutch kit and its been perfect ever since.

 

[636chris]

are you using and extended slave push rod?

 

[Eclipse2630]

are you using and extended slave push rod?

No no extended slave rod.

as for drivability it drives just fine, my synchros are going out in second but i know that isnt causing this issue. it grinded it second before my old throwout bearing tore everything up, causing me to replace to this new clutch and now its all weird. Engagement is ok. According to jafromobiles video on clutch adjustment its suppose to be about 2-3 inches from the floor if i remember correctly, my engagement is probably a little more than that like maybe 4-5 inches. Ill measure it tomorrow. I do know my buddy adjusted the pedal travel behind the clutch switch, which is also mentioned it jafromobiles video, im still kinda new to doing clutches and the adjustments. I have helped do them but not on my own. Now that all my dsm buddys are deployed i have no choice but to figure this out on my own. Like i said the care drives fin but i dont know if this issue is a ticking time bomb. Im gonna start by replacing the master cylinder i guess, because its a oem advanced auto special. Im gonna contact Mitsubishi for a oem one.

question.. if the car is in neutral not started should i be able to push the slave rod in? Or is that only when the clutch bleeder valve is cracked when bleeding?

 

[Timechg]

Here is the Jack's Transmission Youtube video. I used this as reference for when I was adjusting my clutch master cylinder:

Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube

You should be able to push the slave cylinder in when the car is in neutral (doesn't matter if the car is on). If you can't, then you are adjusted too far.

 

[1996dsm]

I had the same issue and upon bleeding and adjusting numerous times. I seen my master leaking under the dash, replaced it and solved my issue.

 

[Eclipse2630]

i replaced my master cylinder when we did the clutch cause i noticed the rubber grommet was wet. I have seen that jacks transmission video, thats good stuff im gonna rewatch it tomorrow during the day and do everything according to that video. The "parts store" master cylinder i have in now is not wet but im gonna get a real mitsu one tomorrow. As the car is right now. When i push on the slave rod it doesnt budge.

 

[twicks69]

Replace the master cylinder with an OEM one (MB910562), and readjust your master cylinder rod that attaches to the pedal assembly. Thread the rod further into your pedal assembly (away from the master cylinder) to get total throw of the master cylinder piston, then bleed out all air from the hydraulic setup, top off reservoir, slowly actuate clutch pedal with the reservoir cap off several times to get any air out of the master cylinder, then top off again and cap the master cylinder. Now, readjust your master cylinder rod away from the pedal assembly toward the master cylinder until you get your proper disengagement and complete pedal throw. You may be currently dealing with pedal pump-up from over-extending the clutch causing the master cylinder to bleed pressure, or you still have air in the master cylinder, or you have a defective aftermarket master cylinder.

Be sure to inspect the pedal assembly for damage/wear of the pivot bushings or the pedal assembly itself from over-extending it during the duration you have been having these issues.

 

[Eclipse2630]

Here is the Jack's Transmission Youtube video. I used this as reference for when I was adjusting my clutch master cylinder:

Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube

You should be able to push the slave cylinder in when the car is in neutral (doesn't matter if the car is on). If you can't, then you are adjusted too far.

I had the same issue and upon bleeding and adjusting numerous times. I seen my master leaking under the dash, replaced it and solved my issue.

Replace the master cylinder with an OEM one (MB910562), and readjust your master cylinder rod that attaches to the pedal assembly. Thread the rod further into your pedal assembly (away from the master cylinder) to get total throw of the master cylinder piston, then bleed out all air from the hydraulic setup, top off reservoir, slowly actuate clutch pedal with the reservoir cap off several times to get any air out of the master cylinder, then top off again and cap the master cylinder. Now, readjust your master cylinder rod away from the pedal assembly toward the master cylinder until you get your proper disengagement and complete pedal throw. You may be currently dealing with pedal pump-up from over-extending the clutch causing the master cylinder to bleed pressure, or you still have air in the master cylinder, or you have a defective aftermarket master cylinder.

Be sure to inspect the pedal assembly for damage/wear of the pivot bushings or the pedal assembly itself from over-extending it during the duration you have been having these issues.

Thanks for the info! Im gonna go get that Master today and readjust and bleed, and then ill report back! thanks!