1G Clutch pedal help

[jdblood202]

Alright. 1990 GS-T, when I got it, the clutch would not disengage. Dropped the transmission, replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, clutch fork, and pivot ball (the pivot ball is not shimmed). The system has been bled numerous times to make sure that wasn't the issue. Did not notice any leaks or any of that. The clutch will still not disengage. When I press the pedal to the floor, it sounds as if the throwout bearing is just barely starting to make contact with the clutch fingers. I noticed that the master cylinder was adjusted all the way out. Put on an extended slave rod to see if that would help, no difference. Just today, pulled the clutch pedal assembly to check the bearings, holes for elongation, or any wear. Found out the previous owner welded the pedal, but I just don't see much wear. the hole where the master cylinder goes still looks fine, clevis pin isn't worn down, maybe I'm missing something but I don't see the issue. I'm going to post pictures of the pedal, maybe someone with a better eye and experience can notice if something is abnormal. Maybe I just need to replace the master/slave cylinders next? Also am going to attach a pic of where the clutch fork sits. Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated.

Here are the rest of the pics

 

[c2ypt1c]

Maybe I just need to replace the master/slave cylinders next?

If you're able to bleed the lines without issue I would think the master/slave are okay.

You mentioned it was all the way out (I forget which way brings the engagement higher off the floor) but have you tried adjusting the master rod? If not, I'd adjust that sucker completely in the other direction to see if there is any difference...

 

[jdblood202]

Hm. Screw it all the way in? I could try that.

 

[c2ypt1c]

It might not be the solution but at least you can rule it out since you haven't tried it yet. If that's not it, my money's on the pedal

 

[jakk220]

How much slop was there in the pedal before it moved the master cylinder?

 

[jdblood202]

Either that, or should I shim the pivot ball? Trying to compare where my clutch fork sits compared to others, it almost looks a little too much towards the slave cylinder side. There's 2 clutch pedals on eBay right now, I may buy one, replace the bushings, and see if that solves it.

And for slop, I really didn't really notice a whole lot.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Trying to compare where my clutch fork sits compared to others, it almost looks a little too much towards the slave cylinder side

EDIT: actually, shimming is only required when the fork is offset toward the passenger side of center...it looks okay to me. It's hard to say though. http://www.teamrip.com/pivot-ball/

Try the rod adjustment and go from there

 

[jakk220]

I did not realize that they discontinued the clutch pedal rebuild kits for the 1G. That is no bueno. Luckily I just replaced the one on my girlfriends car like a year ago. I would have bought another one though had I known that.

The one in my girlfriends car was welded in the wrong position and on top of that had a bunch of slop in it from the clevis pin or whatever. If you pushed the pedal there was some slop before the spring on the opposite side moved.

 

[jdblood202]

Ok, I'll do some adjusting on the master cylinder and see what (if anything) happens. Other than straight up not working or leaking, what would be some signs that the master/slave cylinder may not be working properly? Also, should I also pick up another pedal assembly and see if that was the issue?

 

[Mttwnsck]

I had the same issue with my car, after days of frustration and bleeding the clutch used almost 2 bottles of fluid, I was reading on the fourms and decided to reverse bleed the system by pumping fluid threw the slave up to the master and that fixed my issue.

 

[jdblood202]

I had the same issue with my car, after days of frustration and bleeding the clutch used almost 2 bottles of fluid, I was reading on the fourms and decided to reverse bleed the system by pumping fluid threw the slave up to the master and that fixed my issue.

How did you do that?

 

[Mttwnsck]

I made my own tool out off a vacuum bleeder kit and a bicycle pump. It was a canister with a outlet that had a hose that went to the bottom and an inlet that was just on the lid I connected a hose to the out let and to the bleeder valve on the slave, and the other tobthe air pump. Then cracked the bleed and slowly pumped it watching the master cylinder for air bubbles. If you do this make sure you prime the hose and remove all the air from the line that you connect to the bleeder. Otherwise you will end up pushing alot of air back into the system.

 

[Nathan1993]

I had the same issue with my 1990 awd. I replaced the slave and master. I bench bled the master, and the car goes in 1st with a double clutch.

I think that there could potentially be some trans issues with the car the way it is but the master and slave are fairly cheap and easy to replace.

I would say try the reverse bleeding and if that doesn't work maybe try an extended slave rod? It is a bandaid and could cause some harm, but then at least you know your clutch will disengage.

 

[jdblood202]

The frustrating thing is, it already has an extended slave rod. I was really hoping when I pulled the clutch pedal that there would be something blatantly obvious as to what was going on. But comparing my pedal to others I've looked up, unless it is somehow welded in the wrong position preventing full movement, I don't see anything blatantly wrong. I could try reverse bleeding, I'm about to just drop some money on a new (used) pedal assembly, replace the bushings, get an OEM master and slave cylinder, and get an SS clutch line and hope that the problem was with one of those parts that got replaced!

 

[jdblood202]

Alright. Figure I'd post a follow up. I replaced the slave cylinder with an OEM unit from ExtremePSI, also a SS clutch line. When my other clutch pedal came in, it was pretty obvious what the issue was. Apparently the previous owner didn't weld the pedal in the right position and the pedal could not retract all the way up. The new pedal I got is in very good shape, I threw a bronze bushing in there, bled and reverse bled, (probably unnecessary but I wanted to try it anyways), and problem solved! Thanks everyone for the help!

This is just a comparison picture of the clutch pedals and the difference in how far the pedal could retract.

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Nice little bushing in there!

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[jakk220]

I called it!

 

[jdblood202]

Yes you did!

 

[c2ypt1c]

I called it!

NOT FAIR, I CALLED IT FIRST!

If that's not it, my money's on the pedal

hah jk glad you got it figured out man

 

[jakk220]

NOT FAIR, I CALLED IT FIRST!

The one in my girlfriends car was welded in the wrong position

hah jk glad you got it figured out man

Man, trying to steal my glory..... haha

 

[jdblood202]

Alright, another update. So, the car shifted fine, went into gear and everything, but even when the clutch was not depressed, I was getting a, (I'm not sure how to describe it), grinding type sound coming from the clutch/flywheel area. To me, it sounded as if the TOB was making contact with the pressure plate without even pressing the clutch in. I was a little frustrated, fix one thing and realize that another thing isn't working. Did alot of searching on the forums and came across the clutch master cylinder adjusting video by Jacks. Needless to say, adjusted using those instructions, and presto! Works perfect with no weird sounds. I know to the DSM veterans this is common knowledge, but to guys like me new into DSM cars that are having clutch problems and all the little things aren't working, check your clutch pedal and master cylinder adjustment! Sorry for the long rambling post, and thanks to the people on here who share their knowledge!