clutch not disengaging

[Fastazzevo]

Today, it seemed like I had to struggle to get it into any gear with the car on. With the car off it was easy to shift into different gears. However, can't get anywhere that way. I would have to little yank it into gear almost like the clutch pedal was even pushed it. It would grind like mad getting into gear.


I replaced the slave cylinder , well just swapped it out with a spare I had laying around. Same thing.

I know i'm going to have to pull the tranny to find out, but what is possibly the issue.?

Throwout bearing? Spings in pressure plate bad?

Thanks for any help.

 

[dsm-onster]

Yes a "collapsed" throwout bearing is definately possible.

A goofy question. Are all your bolts in the tranny? Are any bolts loose?

Also I've had a broken spring hung between my pressureplate and clutch disk and caused the poor or non-existant clutch disengagement you are describing.

A bent clutch fork is a possibility.

Do you ahve any leaking around the master cylinder plunger rod?

 

[97 4G63]

It could be your throwout bearing or one of the springs in your clutch ,

 

[Dream On]

Check your pedal assembly and master cylinder before you pull the tranny. Where's the clutch fork sitting? Is it pointing towards one side of the car or the other?

 

[Fastazzevo]

Check your pedal assembly and master cylinder before you pull the tranny. Where's the clutch fork sitting? Is it pointing towards one side of the car or the other?

The master cylinder looks good. there is not any leaking or anything. The fork seems to be kind of sitting in the middle. To me it seem like there is a lot of movement up down side to side in the fork.

Also, I can push it to the drivers side, but it seems to not go all the way to the passenger side it kind of just sits in the middle of the hole basically.

I check and tried adjusting the pedal to no avail

 

[Fastazzevo]

going to pull the tranny and see whats up this weekend

 

[twinturbo3k]

The seals inside a master cylinder can be bad and you will never know unless you change it. When you pull your trans buy a new pivot ball from mitsu, its like 4 dollars, def. worth it. Also, inspect your shift fork, make your your spring is still on your TOB and needless to say buy a new TOB. Have someone watch how far the throw on your fork is, it should almost touch the other side of the case. If it isnt, its probably a hydraulic problem. If it is pushing it that far and still not disengaging, then its inside the bellhousing somewhere.

 

[pitbull419]

I know what it is.It's a dsm
I have been through this a few times.
If your going to pull your tranny get a new pivot ball,release fork and tob.It needs it trust me.
Go ahead and weld your pedal assembly it more than likely needs it also.
Replace your master cylinder.
One of these is bound to fix your problem and they all more than likely need done.

 

[93TSI_DSM]

The other Day me and my friend adjusted my Clutch pedal, the clutch was to the floor, so we adjusted it and like 3 days later the clutch went out completely. went from 60mph to crawlin, apprently the the clutch wasnt disengaging fully. im gettn a new clutch, anything else i might need to get the Talon moving again?

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

Our systems are Hydraulic and self adjusting for the most part. You need at least 1/8" of free play between the push rod from the pedal to the clutch master cylinder. The line from the master cyl to the slave cyl needs to be free of kinks, no leaks, and no air in the system. Air takes away performance of any hydraulic system, whic air can be compressed, fluids cannot (Pascal's Law). If there is air in the system, the air has to travel before the fluid can, which can cause a really soft spongy pedal, or the clutch in this case, not to engage or disengage fully due to the fact the air has to be compressed before the fluid can. Not only that, the slave cyl and the fork/pivot ball would move later in the motion of the pedal, which causes either a late or early disengagment of your system. I would also check your alignment, the dowel pins, the bolts to the trans, flywheel bolts, warpage of the entire system could cause this. I could be here all night describing all the problems. Improper torque for the bolts could cause this, also due to the fact warpage, run out, etc, would cause a number of problems. Just use the service manual to do this the RIGHT way! NO short cuts, otherwise you'll be sorry...

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

The seals inside a master cylinder can be bad and you will never know unless you change it. When you pull your trans buy a new pivot ball from mitsu, its like 4 dollars, def. worth it. Also, inspect your shift fork, make your your spring is still on your TOB and needless to say buy a new TOB. Have someone watch how far the throw on your fork is, it should almost touch the other side of the case. If it isnt, its probably a hydraulic problem. If it is pushing it that far and still not disengaging, then its inside the bellhousing somewhere.

You will know if its bad, not just by changing it. Don't give bad advice. The primary and secondary pistons could be bypassing each other due to the compensating port or the piston seals being broken or swelling from contaminated fluid. There is a number of ways to diagnose this, not by just "replacing it" as you said. Its an easier way to test it. Bench bleed or or bench test the cylinder (which can be complicated). If you do, see if the fluid is going back into the cyl or if its just bubbling. The bore end seal could be leaking, but he said its not leaking from the rear, so that's out of the question. The Release bearing, aka, THROW OUT BEARING got its nickname from the service procedures of "throwing it out" everytime you did a repair, regardless if it was salvageable or not. That's where he has to inspect it fully...

 

[Dragon TalonTsi]

I would also check your crossover/selector (shift) cables to see that they are fully crossing over and shifting into gear... That happened to a customer of mine and me before. The cables can get stretched from binding internally or from rust, corrosion, use and abuse. Either way, check everything with the entire Transmission. Clutch, flywheel, cables, levers, pedal, etc. Its gotta be there...