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Resolved 2G Clutch master cylinder leaking - rebuild

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Nasty Dream

10+ Year Contributor
455
3
Aug 30, 2011
Alexandria, Virginia
I noticed my clutch fluid was on low line so I inspected and noticed my master cylinder is leaking at the boot under the dash.

I have a Chilton's repair manual and the internet, so I've decided to do my first master cylinder rebuild. From what I gather, it's a good time to rebuild the slave as well.

From what I understand, it's usually the seals that go bad, so I should be able to buy the seals/springs rebuild kit and be fine, I hope.


I have heard some mention the RRE SS clutch lines as being a good idea, and to bypass the accumulator. So I'm going to do that.


questions:

Is there any particular brand of rebuild components to avoid?

OK to use NAPA or Autoparts components? Or is there something better for comparable price?

Isn't this a good time to install the skateboard bearings? Or am I confusing components...

Anyone remove the restrictor for faster clutch release? What do you think of that? I'm probably not going to do it, but I am curious about it.

My reference for SS clutch line install instructions [RRE]:RRE 2G CLutch Line Install Instructions

All I think I need:
Rebuild kits
SS clutch line
master cylinder firewall seal
rebuild instructions: should be easy to find online
grease (any particular kind?)

for bleeding:
fresh DOT 3 or 4 Brake Fluid
plastic syringe
empty bottle
hose

Do I need a new clevis pin retainer?

Well, I think that's it. Just need to gather all of the stuff. Any help or advice is appreciated.
 
Solution
No prob. Its helped me before LOL
I probably would have given up and used a replacement CMC without that link, thanks.

I called Tim Zimmer (twicks96) and he ordered the OEM mitsu rebuild kit, and had it shipped to my house. It was like 25 bucks and well worth it to not have a worry about a made in mexico parts store kit. the oem master rebuild kit comes with an o ring for the set screw, a new set screw, and a new plunger/spring, and one more O-ring. You can Pm him here or PM me for his number or email since I don't know if he is a supportive member here.

You are the boss. Unfortunately I don't remember seeing this post! Maybe I was just impatient. Ended up just needing a rubber seal (just like the walk-through). Hopefully...
I take it with no responses that I'm on the right track. Nothing obviously wrong anyway.

I gathered some local prices

To spare you the details, AutoZone has the cheapest Slave cylinder - $8 more than the rebuild kit. I should just get the whole thing, huh.

AutoZone also has "limited lifetime" warranty listed, the others I'm not sure.

Here are the brands, if it means anything to anyone.:idontknow:

  • Autozone : Duralast
  • NAPA: United
  • Advance Autoparts: Perfection, Beck/Arnley (rebuild kits)

Just get the cheapest? Just get the whole thing or rebuild?

I think I'll just rebuild the master, since the difference is $36. Just buy the slave, it's only $8 more than a rebuild kit.
 
It sounds like you are on the right track with your rebuild. But me personally with the slave and master cylinder, i prefer brand new parts. It puts my mind at ease knowing it probably wont fail do to a tiny mistake i made. But i do realize not ever new part off the assembly line is flawless either. Either way you go hope it goes well and happy boosting!
 
AutoZone has the cheapest Slave cylinder - $8 more than the rebuild kit. I should just get the whole thing, huh.
NAPA would be the LOT better place to get a master than AutoCRAPzone...

Prob what is happening is that the cylinder has minute grooves where no grommets are going to seal completely.

True, get a pair - both master and slave - to get your ride back in working order.

Good luck-DSM
 
I called Tim Zimmer (twicks96) and he ordered the OEM mitsu rebuild kit, and had it shipped to my house. It was like 25 bucks and well worth it to not have a worry about a made in mexico parts store kit. the oem master rebuild kit comes with an o ring for the set screw, a new set screw, and a new plunger/spring, and one more O-ring. You can Pm him here or PM me for his number or email since I don't know if he is a supportive member here.
 
I called Tim Zimmer (twicks96) and he ordered the OEM mitsu rebuild kit, and had it shipped to my house. It was like 25 bucks and well worth it to not have a worry about a made in mexico parts store kit. the oem master rebuild kit comes with an o ring for the set screw, a new set screw, and a new plunger/spring, and one more O-ring. You can Pm him here or PM me for his number or email since I don't know if he is a supportive member here.

Yeah. Hell yeah.

But doesn't come with a new plunger/piston thing, right?
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Would be a sweet deal if so. Might do that anyway. Don't think any Mitsu dealers here where I've been staying for the past couple of weeks. I definitely want this fixed before going back to Arlington though.

I considered OEM, but I know they can be killer expensive so I sort of didn't bother. Will check it out after all.

Thanks
 
I ended up calling for the master cylinder from NAPA ("United", $57), and a repair kit ("Beck/Arnley", $14) from Advanced Auto Parts. I'm going to pick them both up in the morning.

If it's not repairable, I'll have a backup plan - an entire replacement. Whichever one I don't use I'll return.

It's a plan. I don't want to be caught out there with my shit all hangin out.
 
No prob. Its helped me before LOL
I probably would have given up and used a replacement CMC without that link, thanks.

I called Tim Zimmer (twicks96) and he ordered the OEM mitsu rebuild kit, and had it shipped to my house. It was like 25 bucks and well worth it to not have a worry about a made in mexico parts store kit. the oem master rebuild kit comes with an o ring for the set screw, a new set screw, and a new plunger/spring, and one more O-ring. You can Pm him here or PM me for his number or email since I don't know if he is a supportive member here.

You are the boss. Unfortunately I don't remember seeing this post! Maybe I was just impatient. Ended up just needing a rubber seal (just like the walk-through). Hopefully the Chinese part holds up.

I can't say everything went well, it was raining for 2 days straight, but it would stop long enough to get my tools out...

Repaired the master cylinder
Clutch reservoir delete
Put in stainless steel clutch cable
Fixed valve cover leak
Spark plugs
Gear oil
Motor oil

:rocks:

But I found gear oil leaking from the transmission at the passenger axle. :notgood:

Thank god for this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html

Otherwise I would have been out there, literally forever. After hours of bleeding the master, pedal still won't come off the floor on its own. Everyone seems to know how to bleed the master cylinder, but nobody ever tells you that you need to bleed the slave next!

I managed to bleed the slave without help. Everything is working great now.

:exhausted:

Thanks for a great site.
 
Solution
Best thing to do is suck out what's in the reservoir and clean it as much as possible then refill. Do these 3 days in a row or so and see if the leak stops.... one of friends have the same problem right now and after doing this his fluid and reservoir are spotless but he still have a leak so now he going to be buying a new cylinder. Make sure you try that first though before spending money
 
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