Clutch fork too far to the left post slave install?

[cait sith]

After having my clutch die, I put in another clutch (OS Giken), pivot ball (OEM), slave cylinder (OEM), TOB (as provided with the clutch) and I visually checked the centerline with no slave on the clutch fork, and it looked exactly like the RRE photo (ie: Centered in the window).

NOW– Here's my issue: Post install of the new slave, bleeding the system, etc, the clutch fork is slightly pushed over (approximately 3 or 4mm or so) to the passenger side. The last owner of my car had an extended slave cylinder on the car and it lead to pedal pump up issues and the eventual destruction of my other twin disc. I really, really don't want this to happen again, so I'm trying to make everything perfect. I do not have an extended slave rod on the car.

Also, should the TOB always be in contact with the clutch? I'm guessing yes, but wanted to confirm. While seeing the clutch spinning I can see the TOB spinning through the fork window.

I adjusted it per the jack's transmission video, I don't feel any clutch pump up at all like I did previously. Engagement feels clean and smooth. I haven't had a chance to road test it yet because I broke my ECU temp sensor putting the starter back in, and I'd like to have this transmission issue sorted out while it's still on jack stands.

I'm thinking this feels/sounds like a hydraulic adjustment issue.

If I have to drop the transmission again, I'm going to drive this car off a cliff.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Was your flywheel properly stepped?

 

[cait sith]

Was your flywheel properly stepped?

Flywheel is part of the clutch. It's a twin disc unit.

 

[TSiAWD666]

What you really need to know is:
1) Is the clutch fork not hitting the bell housing when you have the clutch pedal fully depressed
2) Is the clutch working in general (i.e. no slipping due to preload from the slave, full disengagement)

If the answer to both is yes, you're fine and you're worrying over nothing.

If it's not you have to take action. If the issue is number 1, I can think of a few things that might be the problem:
- The clutch, with your particular fork ball, fork, throwout bearing (not all TOB are the same, especially those from other manufacturers than OEM), and clutch assembly, just isn't all designed properly. Something's out of spec. It just might not be the best design, but it may be usable still. So if you assume everything is assembled properly, first thing I would try is shimming the pivot ball to give the fork the clearance with the bell housing so it doesn't hit when the pedal is fully depressed. I had this very issue with my twin disc clutch recently... the combination of parts just didn't allow things to line up perfectly and I my fork hit the housing at the bottom of my pedal play.
- Something's not assembled properly. When I was troubleshooting my clutch problem my clutch builder (Tim Zimmer of TMZ Performance, twicks69 here on dsmtuners) told me it's possible to actually assemble my quartermaster's discs in such a way that they will still function somewhat, but result in the clutch fingers being flatter than they should, which would in effect move the clutch fork's range of movement over. I don't know your clutch so I can't say this is possible, but maybe it is?

If the issue is #2 the issue is of either adjustment, or a failed component in the clutch pedal system (master, slave, or pedals). I'm sure you know this though, but listing for posterity.

 

[kchaazz]

Another thing, since you didnt mention whether you replaced the fork is, are you using a new fork or? Generally, the fork wears out where the pivot ball rides within, and this could be the issue as well. I am aware that twin disk clutches usually require the use of a slightly modified OE fork(Just a little grinding for clearance), or you can purchase a forged unit, though I dont know anything about the OS Giken TDC...

 

[cait sith]

Fork + pivot ball was around 2000 miles old, and I broke the pivot ball wrestling with the transmission during install.

 

[kchaazz]

Ahh, so then it couldnt be a worn fork causing the position to be off a bit. Well, Like TSI said, as long as the fork isnt hitting the the edge of the window when youre pushing the pedal down and the clutch engages and disengages properly, youre alright, but if you like, you can still shim the ball a bit. Personally, I always put the transmission on the motor and check position of the fork before going any further with the transmission install even with new components cause its still relatively easy to just take the trans back off, shim and check again if needed.

 

[cait sith]

Cool, thanks for the reassurance guys, I'm just being completely overly paranoid I think. I'll check through it again his weekend and give an update with the car on the ground.

 

[cait sith]

New clutch is slipping at WOT in third gear.

I hate these cars so much.

I guess I'm going to order a new master cylinder and hope and pray that fixes it because I am completely out of ideas with this car.

 

[kchaazz]

New clutch is slipping at WOT in third gear.

I hate these cars so much.

I guess I'm going to order a new master cylinder and hope and pray that fixes it because I am completely out of ideas with this car.

If its slipping in higher gears on a new ish clutch, either you dont have enough freeplay at the top of the pedal and are therefore preloading the clutch (can you still push the fork and push the slave rod into the slave easily?) or you havent properly allowed the clutch to bed in yet. You need to look up the instructions for breaking in your clutch cause I dont know how you break in a twin disk.

 

[cait sith]

Completely readjusted the clutch carefullly, clutch is no longer slipping.

IMHO One should start with the clutch pedal fully tightened then loosen until you can't push, then tighten that little bit.