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2G Clutch Engages at floor.

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HaveSomeJoe

15+ Year Contributor
66
0
Jun 3, 2007
Portland, Maine
I just want to some verification because I'm not entirely confident with the replies from the searched threads that are similar to my problem.

I had a loose nut on my clutch pedal assembly so I tightened it and got my pedal to work again (it had 4 inches of freeplay and didn't engage the clutch)

I had it welded as well.

The problem was fixed but now it engages the clutch about 1 inch off the ground.

When inspecting it, it was still a little lower than the gas pedal when at its peak and it wasn't depressing the cruise control switch like it should be (it should be, right?)

So I loosened the adjustment nut and turned the rod on the right side of the gas pedal until almost all the way out.

With it almost all the way out, the pedal was still only depressing the cruise control switch about halfway.

I left the adjustment nut loosened also and I don't know if maybe it went back to its old height really quick or not.

I'm pretty sure the slave and master cylinders are in fine shape. No leaks or anything.

and reverse grinds a bit when i try to engage it after driving forward and stopping (not sure if this is a related problem. Maybe though, since I would like to be able to engage the clutch about midway down, rather than at the floor.)

could air get into the system by adjusting the rod and removing the pedal assembly etc..??

Does this just sound like i need to adjust the pedal, TIGHTEN the bolt, and bleed the system?

Thanks!
 
Is it ever hard to get into 1st gear? If it is your tranny bolts could have backed out. When my clutch was hard to engage that is what happened.
 
1g_tsi
im going to check that out on my car because i am having problems getting it in first and i thought it was my synchros but they did just do a sct2600 before i bought it and i didn't install it. if thats the pproblem i owe you a case of beer :)
 
1g_tsi
im going to check that out on my car because i am having problems getting it in first and i thought it was my synchros but they did just do a sct2600 before i bought it and i didn't install it. if thats the pproblem i owe you a case of beer :)

Hahahaha, sounds good. I had a problem getting it in first and sometimes the clutch would stick to the floor, it turned out to be 3 loose tranny bolts... ROFL


And mine had just ahd a new clutch installed as well... So, I would not doubt it.
 
. . .
When inspecting it, it was still a little lower than the gas pedal when at its peak and it wasn't depressing the cruise control switch like it should be (it should be, right?)

So I loosened the adjustment nut and turned the rod on the right side of the gas pedal until almost all the way out.

With it almost all the way out, the pedal was still only depressing the cruise control switch about halfway.

I left the adjustment nut loosened also and I don't know if maybe it went back to its old height really quick or not.
. . .

I suppose you mean you turned the clutch master cylinder rod clockwise? If so, then that is correct.

In any case if you left the nut loose, the rod will move constantly. You have to make sure that when the rod is adjusted correctly, the nut is secured tightly. Otherwise, the rod will adjust itself back into the master cylinder and you won't get the travel you need to release the clutch. Of course this also means when the clutch is released, it engages when the pedal is very close to the floor.
 
thread revival!!!! so im getting similar issues but when its COLD ONLY.. i have searched neumerously throughout google and its not just me that is having this issue, when its cold under 40*F the clutch is spongy and soft and engages at the floor. when its fully warmed up and i have driven it for a bit this clutch is rock solid (act 2600) im not having any shifting problems just that its soft and spongy when cold... can someone confirm that this IS infact due to temperature only? or does anyone else have any ideas? i did just do a new engine swap and new clutch and flywheel, lines were bled properly and everything.

fluid im using is DOT3 gas station break fluid., and breaks feel fine. so i dont think its making the liquid thick..
 
try bleeding it. until most of the old break fluid is out. basically flush out the old fluid. if that doesn't work then check if your master cylinder is leaking or your slave cylinder.
 
I had all these problems with a freshly rebuilt tre trans, I replaced with OEM Master and Slave and a SS line. I had the trans pulled and replaced the oem TOB that was in there with a NEW OEM TOB and the clutch was switched out and all was good again.
-Shane
 
im not trying to thread jack here but mine doesnt have a problem going into first but sometimes it does going into reverse. there is no grinding or anything of that sort, just when i press the clutch sometimes it wont go into gear, any thoughts?
 
Why wasn't this even posted?

Start here and get the clutch adjusted properly as I would suggest a very large portion of owners have improperly adjusted clutches. After that is done, just re bleed the clutch.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vYJxQyjIhUw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Why wasn't this even posted?

Start here and get the clutch adjusted properly as I would suggest a very large portion of owners have improperly adjusted clutches. After that is done, just re bleed the clutch.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vYJxQyjIhUw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

look at the date of the OP.
 
1990 TSI AWD, had the same problem. Welded pedal assembly and still not enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. Replaced the clutch, turned flywheel, new pivot ball with a washer under it, new fork, new bearing. Now clutch fully disengage but is still very close to the floor. I'm literally using the last thread on the CMC rod. Would adding an extension to the rod give me more adjustment?
 
1990 TSI AWD, had the same problem. Welded pedal assembly and still not enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. Replaced the clutch, turned flywheel, new pivot ball with a washer under it, new fork, new bearing. Now clutch fully disengage but is still very close to the floor. I'm literally using the last thread on the CMC rod. Would adding an extension to the rod give me more adjustment?
Best answer is maybe.
Maybe check this info out.

 
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