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2G Clutch Drag Issue (What would you do)

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StrokerMax

Proven Member
161
11
Mar 27, 2014
Colorado Spring, Colorado
Hi Everyone,

I have a 2g that has a clutch drag issue. I've adjusted my clutch correctly per the Jacks Trans video and the problem still exists.

I think my problem is:
1) Non- OEM master or slave (I don't know for sure that the Master and Slave are non-OEM. They came on the car when I bought it and nothing on this car is original. The prior owner kind of hacked things on this car).
2) Improper fly wheel step height. (I had a stock 6 bolt flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop).
3) something that I'm missing

I don't think its improper clutch assembly
I've bleed the line out several times

I screwed the master rod further out and the drag decreased (However with it further out the slave wouldn't push back in).

Should I try buying new master and slave cylinders first or just tear the trans out to check the flywheel step?
 
Might be a broken tine on your TOB clutch fork. One fork broke on mine years ago and the TOB would still KIND OF disengage the clutch, but not completely. I felt it break but didn't know what had happened at the time. Ironically, I sent it to a shop and the guy calls me in to look at "interesting" galling patterns on the flywheel. The car was on a lift, so I walked over, pulled out the clutch fork with only 1 tine, handed it to him and walked out. Fruckers charged me $1200 to drop the tranny on that occasion even though I found the problem.
 
Kenamond, thats why I hate using shops!! Too hard to find anyone reliable around here.

I just had my trans out recently and had Jacks Transmission go through it. The clutch fork looked okay. I think this car has always had a clutch drag issue. I've owned the car for about 8 years and have probably put 100 miles on it. It has all the right parts but the prior owner had a bunch of issues that I've spent lots of time working out.

Its sat in my garage for a couple of years because I got frustrated with it and didn't have time to work on it. I discovered the clutch was dragging before I took the transmission out. Kicking myself for not having the flywheel step checked. I figured it had to be either bleeding the clutch or improper adjustment. I just didn't think the step height could be my issue since I had a reputable shop machine it.
 
Does anyone know what the clutch stop should look like? This is what I have. I can’t find a photo of what it should be. Kind of looks like someone stuck on a random nut.

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Does anyone know what the clutch stop should look like? This is what I have. I can’t find a photo of what it should be. Kind of looks like someone stuck on a random nut.

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It should be a switch for your cruise control. Looks just like clutch switch (to start the car). There should be a nut welded from the factory so the cruise switch screws in and there’s another nut on the other side to secure it.
 
I was hopeful that it would be a clutch pedal issue. But everything in the pedal looks good.

I replaced the master cylinder with an OEM master. Seems to have improved the drag but its still there. I ordered a new OEM slave. Then I'll bleed it really well.

If that doesn't work then I'll be looking for recommendations for a new flywheel and possibly the clutch. I have an ACT street disc with a 2600 lb pressure plate. I didn't like the feeling of the light weight flywheel so thats why I went with stock. I can't seem to find stock OEM flywheels new. Anyone know a decent flywheel that has a more factory feeling?
 
Try a 1g slave. ACT juggles the fulcrum dia (leverage ratio) to keep the pedal pressure reasonable. So you end up needing a lot more TOB travel to release it. In most cases you can't make a 2600 work good because the fingers will hit the disc before it releases. setup a dial indicator and measure how far the slave cylinder moves with someone else pushing the pedal to the floor. If you don't feel the plate go over center it's not moving it far enough. If it is moving far enough, chances are you have bent the disc or something.
 
Try a 1g slave. ACT juggles the fulcrum dia (leverage ratio) to keep the pedal pressure reasonable. So you end up needing a lot more TOB travel to release it. In most cases you can't make a 2600 work good because the fingers will hit the disc before it releases. setup a dial indicator and measure how far the slave cylinder moves with someone else pushing the pedal to the floor. If you don't feel the plate go over center it's not moving it far enough. If it is moving far enough, chances are you have bent the disc or something.
That’s great advice! Thank you.

I already ordered a 2G slave. Wish I had got a 1G

Do you by chance know how much travel I should get when I measure with a dial indicator? I have one in my garage I use for working on dump truck PTOs.
 
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