Clutch disengagement problems ...

[Turbo Shogun]

Well, it's been quite a long time since I posted here, but here goes.

I've got a 6 bolt AWD that has clutch disengagement problems. Never used to have any problems of any sort on my stock flywheel/exedy replacement clutch. I now have a Fidanza flywheel and an RPS Turbo MAX clutch.

So the problem is getting the clutch to disengage completely. So far, the clutch only disengages partially, meaning, I cannot get the car to go into any gear (at all - if I force it, it will grind).

I have already tried the following:

- Clutch pedal assembly fix.
- New "revised" clutch fork and fulcrum ball.
- Bleed hydraulic system.
- .25" longer clutch slave pushrod.
- Backed out clutch master cylinder pushrod adjustment.

- edit -

- Braided steel clutch line
- Checked flywheel step height (.610-.609")

After those did not work, I then tried ...

- Shim fulcrum ball about 4.8mm (2 washers)

Much to my dismay, I had moved the clutch fork too close to the pressure plate, which resulted in some rubbing and scouring on the highest part of the pressure plate when the clutch was completely engaged. HOWEVER the clutch was now fully disengaged, and I was able to put the transmission into gear, but, again, the problem was that the pressure plate was coming into contact with the clutch fork when the clutch was engaged (foot off clutch pedal). The friction point of the clutch was also very low, probably 2 inches or so off the carpet.

So, the transmission comes off again, and I tried,

- Reducing shim material by 1.5mm by using a single large washer about 3.33mm

Now the transmission refuses to go into gear again, even while using a longer clutch pushrod (.25" longer).

The only thing that I could think of now is replacing the clutch slave and/or clutch master cylinder. The clutch slave is not leaking in any way. The clutch master was replaced two years ago (car has been down for a year and 8 months ).

Could there be anything else that could be causing the clutch not to disengage fully?

Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Morphius]

Now the transmission refuses to go into gear again, even while using a longer clutch pushrod (.25" longer).

Get rid of the longer pushrod. It does nothing, as you experienced, and can only cause your setup harm down the road.


How many miles on your pedal assembly? Even after it's welded, I think the crossshaft fatiques and fails and the result is it's deformed rotationally. Might be time for a new pedal assembly.

 

[Turbo Shogun]

That's the thing, the assembly was taken out and that pesky hole had a nut welded to it (or whatever thing wears in there) about 4 years ago. The car's only done about 20000 miles since then.

However, I am heavy on the clutch (I road race and autocross the car alot - lots of shifting), I suppose that can lead to premature failure of the entire assembly as well.

I have noticed that I have a fair amount of freeplay in the clutch assembly, but found that the slave does actuate (by however many millimeters) early on when you depress the pedal. It originally looked like the clutch fork wasn't getting enough push, thus I made a longer pushrod for the slave cylinder.

What's the normal amount of free play on the clutch pedal, anyhow? I suppose the pedal assembly or hydraulics could be the only things wrong at this point ...

Thanks your your help.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Get rid of the longer rod. All it does is cover up another problem. Make sure your pedal assembly welds didn't break. Are you sure you adjusted the clutch the right way Sometimes when your upside down like that things can get backwards