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clutch bleedibg not helping

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chrisff521

10+ Year Contributor
46
0
Jun 9, 2010
Deer Park, New_York
So I bled my clutch by having someone pump the clutch 10 times and on the tenth time, they hold it and I crack the bleeder valve open and quickly shut it with the hose attached to it and the other end submerged in brake fluid.


I repeated this method about 10 times and this is the 2nd time bleeding the clutch. It still gets spongy sometimes and the gears are difficult to engage from time to time and the reverse almost always grinds. But I know its not the synchros becuase most of the time is goes into gear very smoothly and so does the reverse when I first start the car but after driving around a little bit it starts to grind. I have to pump the clutch a few times while driving in order for it to go into gear


anYone have any ideas? Do u think its necessary to replace the master and slave cylinders?
 
When bleeding the clutch have your helper press it down once and hold while you bleed and tighten, then repeat. pumping multiple times as stated above will not do much especially on the clutch, brakes are kinda both ways, but i prefer to gravity bleed for best results
 
Climb in under the steering wheel and have a look and the area underneath where the master cylinder comes through the firewall. If you can see or feel fluid, change the master. Then check the slave around the boot and if you see fluid coming from in there, replace that too. Have you replaced the rubber clutch line? Not a bad idea seeing as you're bleeding it all anyways.
 
VERY giood point!!! And when one goes you might as well replace both (clutch master and slave) because they usually go within a month or 3 of each other and when the slave goes it usually goes ALL at ONCE and leaves you clutchless.

The tendancy to go out right with each other i think is mainly due to them built to hold the same pressures as far as the seals and pistons go and then couple that with a heavy duty pressur eplate clutch adn they are sure to go in unison.

I have had an ACT2100 , an ACT 2600 and am now on the 2900 with inverted 6 puck disk (full face look with a 6 bolt pattern cut OUT of it) inverted :p

Anyway, the last 3 sets of them i've replaced (done 4 in 13 years, and all but the first ones went within a month or so of each other)

Just pull the carpet back and if you see a fluid trickling down the firewall it's definitely bad and needs replaced
 
I just went and followed Strm Trpr's guide on bleeding the clutch and slave and still does the same thing. I pulled the boot on the slave and its not really leaking but has some grease or something. IDK if thats normal. And the master isnt leaking by the floor and I adjusted the clutch pedal also. What else could be my issue?
 
I've seen the crappy rubber lines get pin hole leaks. If you have a loss in pedal pressure there has to be a leak somewhere in the "system." It's pretty simple though, there's only a few parts that actually move (slave cylinder, master cylinder, and the rubber line gets vibrated around). Odds are one of these is where the problem is at.
 
You should def replace the slave. its not an expensive part, and it is most likely the cause of your problems
 
Which rubber line? I've heard of this before but when I got under there I took quick look but didn't see any rubber line
 
so you replaced the master cylinder? I wanna know about the hose though. I need to fix this! Its so frustrating and annoying that I have to slam the pedal down and still struggle to get into gear.
 
Look at your master cylinder reservoir (where you pour in fluid for clutch) there is a rubber hose that connects the reservoir and the cylinder. If it's leaking from that hose, will will probably see your paint peeling underneath it, from the fluid. If so, replace that hose, and be sure you get a curved one. You don't want to bend a hose to fit. Most of the time, the seal will be leaking. The seal is on the inside firewall, under the dash and above the clutch pedal. It's a tight squeeze in there. I hope you're a little guy.
 
Look at your master cylinder reservoir (where you pour in fluid for clutch) there is a rubber hose that connects the reservoir and the cylinder. If it's leaking from that hose, will will probably see your paint peeling underneath it, from the fluid. If so, replace that hose, and be sure you get a curved one. You don't want to bend a hose to fit. Most of the time, the seal will be leaking. The seal is on the inside firewall, under the dash and above the clutch pedal. It's a tight squeeze in there. I hope you're a little guy.

LOL yea well I checked under the dash and theres no fluid leaking. Ill check out the rubber hose at the master cylinder and see if its leaking.
 
You can have a bad master and see no leaks it could be bypassing internally. If you are (sure) you have no leaks, i would replace all 3. The master the slave and the flex hose. The car is 15 years old and i would guess they all 3 need to be retired and replacing all 3 would save you some headaches in the furture.
 
If I can find the video I'll link it up...

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This explains a little about your master cylinder:thumb:
 
I replaced the slave. It was definitley part of the problem because it was falling apart when I took the slave out and it goes in a little bit easier but still sometimes the pedal sinks to the floor and I have to pick it up manually. But the problem persists. I want to replace the rubber hose now to see if it helps. Where do I get the rubber hose from that connects the reservoir to the master?
 
have you tried collapsing the slave cylinder by hand while someone pushes the pedal in? theres a huge gap of air inside it on a fresh bleed that will make your pedal soft...also have you checked the master cylinders resistance? if thats going bad u will have a weak clutch as well
 
i haavnt tried collapsing. What i did was followed the guide provided earlier and bled the clutch three times and then bled the slave by pushing in the slave rod which pushed all the fluid out and then had someone put in the bleeder screw and tightened it before i released the rod. What do you mean be checking the master cylinders resistance?
 
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