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2G Clutch bad?

Frankie3343

Probationary Member
17
2
Jul 10, 2021
Mountain Home, Idaho
My clutch wont go down
It started out as the clutch staying down
Then it would grind when i press the clutch in
Then i cant push down the clutch at all
What could be the issue?
Just trying to get some ideas
 

SixBolt_16G

Proven Member
102
9
Nov 7, 2005
Chicago, Illinois
I havent had too many clutch issues in the past, but maybe answering some other questions that might help other more knowledgeable people diagnose your issue. There are a number of different things it could be.

Did it just happen out of nowhere or had you done work on it recently?
How old is your clutch?
How old are your master/slave cylinders?
Last time you bled the fluid?
Does anything change if you raise all 4 wheels off the ground and try to shift with engine on/off?
Weird smells, vibrations, noises other than the grinding that you noticed prior to the problem?

Since it has gotten stuck both way, perhaps start by checking for a bad clutch master cylinder. Youll have to check around here on how to diagnose it, but if it turns out to be the Master... replace both the master AND the slave at the same time.

Other than that since it was originally stuck the floor first:
Slave cylinder might be stuck/bad
Broken clutch fork
Bad throw out bearing
Blown clutch springs
Possibly air in the clutch line
Misaligned clutch pedal
Trans issue
 

XC92

Proven Member
1,386
284
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
What did you do between the clutch being all the way down and not being able to go down at all? Did you adjust the MC rod or add a SC extender rod? It could be that the relief valve in the MC is blocked, preventing pedal movement.
 

Frankie3343

Probationary Member
17
2
Jul 10, 2021
Mountain Home, Idaho
What did you do between the clutch being all the way down and not being able to go down at all? Did you adjust the MC rod or add a SC extender rod? It could be that the relief valve in the MC is blocked, preventing pedal movement.
I didnt do anything so far
 

Frankie3343

Probationary Member
17
2
Jul 10, 2021
Mountain Home, Idaho
I havent had too many clutch issues in the past, but maybe answering some other questions that might help other more knowledgeable people diagnose your issue. There are a number of different things it could be.

Did it just happen out of nowhere or had you done work on it recently?
How old is your clutch?
How old are your master/slave cylinders?
Last time you bled the fluid?
Does anything change if you raise all 4 wheels off the ground and try to shift with engine on/off?
Weird smells, vibrations, noises other than the grinding that you noticed prior to the problem?

Since it has gotten stuck both way, perhaps start by checking for a bad clutch master cylinder. Youll have to check around here on how to diagnose it, but if it turns out to be the Master... replace both the master AND the slave at the same time.

Other than that since it was originally stuck the floor first:
Slave cylinder might be stuck/bad
Broken clutch fork
Bad throw out bearing
Blown clutch springs
Possibly air in the clutch line
Misaligned clutch pedal
Trans issue
It happend out of nowhere only work i had done was the positive battery cables

The clutch is about 2 years old but it sat for those 2 years

No clue on both how old the cylinders are or when it was bled

I havent tried getting it off the ground yet

And the only noise was a rattle but goes away when clutch is pressed in
 

SixBolt_16G

Proven Member
102
9
Nov 7, 2005
Chicago, Illinois
Check the fluid level... if it looks low, look in the driver's foot well and feel around the clutch side of the firewall to see if there is fluid leaking down it and into the carpeting or onto to the pedal.
 

Frankie3343

Probationary Member
17
2
Jul 10, 2021
Mountain Home, Idaho
I did find this near the clutch pedal

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

SixBolt_16G

Proven Member
102
9
Nov 7, 2005
Chicago, Illinois
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Start at 1:22... It could be running down the rod and accumulating at the location you have in the picture. Reach your hand up and see if the rod or the cylinder is wet. Regardless of whether it is or isnt the only problem causing your situation... it still needs to be done if its leaking, so replace both the master and the slave..then bleed.
 
Last edited:

Frankie3343

Probationary Member
17
2
Jul 10, 2021
Mountain Home, Idaho
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Start at 1:22... It could be running down the rod and accumulating at the location you have in the picture. Reach your hand up and see if the rod or the cylinder is wet. Regardless of whether it is or isnt the only problem causing your situation... it still needs to be done if its leaking, so replace both the master and the slave..then bleed.
The rod is not wet
 

Frankie3343

Probationary Member
17
2
Jul 10, 2021
Mountain Home, Idaho
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Start at 1:22... It could be running down the rod and accumulating at the location you have in the picture. Reach your hand up and see if the rod or the cylinder is wet. Regardless of whether it is or isnt the only problem causing your situation... it still needs to be done if its leaking, so replace both the master and the slave..then bleed.
And will do with replacing both thank you
 

BLACK'98DSM

Proven Member
3,507
1,232
Feb 9, 2019
Alabama
noise was a rattle but goes away when clutch is pressed in
You might want to have a look at that throwout bearing then. You don't even have to remove the trans, just find a boroscope with light and pop the boot off the clutch fork and stick it in there. You could do it with the engine running too so you can see any extra play or vibration with anything between the engine and trans. Just be sure you don't touch the camera to the pressure plate, that'd be a nightmare.
 

Frankie3343

Probationary Member
17
2
Jul 10, 2021
Mountain Home, Idaho
You might want to have a look at that throwout bearing then. You don't even have to remove the trans, just find a boroscope with light and pop the boot off the clutch fork and stick it in there. You could do it with the engine running too so you can see any extra play or vibration with anything between the engine and trans. Just be sure you don't touch the camera to the pressure plate, that'd be a nightmare.
The mechanics i took it to also said the bearing might be going bad
And my uncle also said it could be the trans fork but will keep in mind
 
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