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cluch disk???

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18gTalon

Probationary Member
11
0
Mar 23, 2008
South Plainfield, New_Jersey
Ive got a 91 TSI (check my mods...except the 18g im only running stock boost cause ive got no dsmlink to control 750cc's) I took my trans out as I'm putting the rebuilt motor in and saw my clutch was gone (rivets had wear marks on em) now Im sure the pressure plates good cause I got both 25,000 miles ago and it looks fine. I was looking online at alot of different disks and Im having trouble picking one out. I'm leaning towards a SBR disk cause theres no break-in period. But what disk should I get and what are your experiences with the disks you chose? :talon:
 
I got this right off their site...SBR 3500/4000/4500 Street Disk

This disc uses an alloy backplate to act as a heatsink for more durability. The disc is made of Carbon Kevlar weave NOT Fiber like Clutch Masters (CM requires perfect break in otherwise it slips). Our disc has no Break in, just put it in and drive! The lining of our discs are softer than ACT and will not chatter (perfect replacement for the ACT street disc).

You've scene the posts on just how decent this clutch and replacement disc has been working for most street cars! It's a great clutch for anything up to a little over 430 horsepower with the proper pressure plate clamping to it. As of 07/01/06, these discs are redesigned and better than before!

So a 2600 with a street dick or with a 6-puck? remember this is a stock drivetrain with 140,000 on it LOL (oh except for the fidanza front cv axles LOL)
 
I actually got em for free LOL...I ordered the axles cause the old ones were torn up...then my stock clutch went and I canceled the order and bought the 2100 kit...but they sent both and only charged me the clutch kit LOL that was 2 years ago so hey I cant say no to free stuff.

I see the Fidanza kit online for $388 so I'm gonna get that...464 torque holding power is nice:D :talon:
 
How long should this clutch approximately last??? Figuring seeing the track once a year other than that daily driving like a normal human being LOL. :talon:
 
Kick ass thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it. How do I recommend you for reputation points??? :talon:
 
Sup guys...not to intervene or anything, but you realize the 4.3 is a 6 puck "ceramic", right?
Is this your daily driver? How much tq are you makin? Or plan to make?

Be very careful in your clutch choice (ive been through 3 already...goin on my 4th) Not somethin to be proud of, but hey, live and learn! LOL

Im not dogging the 4.3 (I've had the Comp stage 4...exact same thing), but if your choice is between the 4.3 or 2600, those are 2 VERY different clutches.
You gotta understand that puck styles engage very differently than full disks.
Sprung or not, they engage harshly; chatter unless you try to slip higher; are not easy to slip if you need to; and even if you do slip them, because they can withstand the extra heat and wont give way, that extra heat then transfers to critical parts in your tranny i.e flywheel, pressure plate etc....
This is why puck style clutches are reserved for more track than street use. Dont get me wrong, you can use em on the street (and enough guys have), but there's compromises....and sometimes consequences.

There's so many other combos out there that will suit your needs, AND be full disk. My advice, stay away from anything organic. You can get full disks, or even segmented disks that are kevlar or kevlar composite (w/carbon)....they will outlast organic, put up with more abuse, recover, and most importantly, VERY STREETABLE.

You gotta do your homework when it comes to clutches, and with you being AWD, its not just the holding capacity of the clutch thats important, but also the heat tolerances of the disk.

The 2 most important things you gotta factor is: What are your tq goals, and whats your launching technique.
Again, you can get the same grabbing power, heat resistance etc.. from a properly selected full disk as you would a puck style, but with MUCH better engagement, driveability...

Word to the Wise: Dont ever go by the manufacturers' 1/4 mile capability i.e "this clutch is good for low 12's" or whatever. Thats all BS! There's no absolute way to determine that a certain "stage" clutch is good for a certain 1/4 mile time. BS!
This rating of clutches in "stages" is crap....you gotta look past that and look more into what the "stages" entail (i.e how many lbs pressure plate, what kind of disk and its material)

According to ACT, their 2600 with performance street disk is good for high 11's ROFL
I had that setup and barely ran low 13's before frying the disk from just my first launch!

(My wishlist involves the QM or PTT twin-disk. Now were cooking...once you twin, you'll never go sing.)le

Best of luck with your choices!
 
Im not dogging the 4.3 (I've had the Comp stage 4...exact same thing), but if your choice is between the 4.3 or 2600, those are 2 VERY different clutches.
You gotta understand that puck styles engage very differently than full disks.
Sprung or not, they engage harshly; chatter unless you try to slip higher; are not easy to slip if you need to; and even if you do slip them, because they can withstand the extra heat and wont give way, that extra heat then transfers to critical parts in your tranny i.e flywheel, pressure plate etc....
This is why puck style clutches are reserved for more track than street use. Dont get me wrong, you can use em on the street (and enough guys have), but there's compromises....and sometimes consequences.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that a 4.3 is a ceramic 6-puck and the pedal pressure is similar to a ACT 2100. Even though it's a ceramic 6-puck its unbelieveable. It can handle more torque than the 2600 and I haven't heard a chatter while daily driving but maybe there will be a downfall when it is winter.

Check this out, it will help you understand clutches more; PRI 2006 - StreetFire.net does a technical intervi - Video.
 
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