Choices, help me out

[IslandTSI]

So im finally ready for some more mods for the talon. Ive been trying to decide what will give me the most power for the limited amount of money I want to spend (250$). So ive come up with two options.

#1 Exhaust. It wont be a full tbe but i will buy a 3" magnaflow stock looking muffler ditch the cat and run 3" piping from the down pipe back. Keep in mind ive got a tottaly stock exhaust.

#2 Get the 17 psi actuator from forced performance and a walbro fuel pump. I dont have an mbc but my car at wot now sits around 15psi and spikes a little higher when i launch in first or punch it in second.

Either way i go I would like to break into the 13's by the end of the summer and I think it can be possible. If anyone has any other ideas please help me out. Thanks in advance

Ryan

 

[DGajre777]

I would go with a open air K&N filter and exhaust.

The 17 psi actuator is a good idea with a 190 fuel pump, but if you get a 255 you'll need to get a AFPR.

 

[IslandTSI]

I would go with a open air K&N filter and exhaust.

The 17 psi actuator is a good idea with a 190 fuel pump, but if you get a 255 you'll need to get a AFPR.

Check out my profile ive already got my intake done. I would definitly go with the 255 if i went that way cause I do plan on a bigger turbo down the road. How necesarry would an afpr be and whats the best and easiest brand out there to install, the aeromotive??

 

[SethA]

I agree that a 3" catback (or dp back) would be a good next step. It sounds like you already have a boost guage, if you don't do that next. Did you remove the BCS restrictor yet? That will give you a little more boost. After that you could go with a logger and a cheap manual boost controller. Don't get to frisky with the boost until you have a logger, it will help you determine when you need to upgrade your fuel system.

Seth

 

[daren_p]

I would go with a open air K&N filter and exhaust.

The 17 psi actuator is a good idea with a 190 fuel pump, but if you get a 255 you'll need to get a AFPR.

Defently need an fpr with the 255 pump unless you want to run pig rich unless your wot. Aeromotive is the best & with an install kit your looking at close to $250 just for that. I wouldn't even think about a fuel pump until you get all the other bolt on's & an upgraded turbo. Just rewire the factory one for now. 17 psi actuator is a good idea, unless you haven't upgraded your bov (didn't read profile before I stated writing). If your still running the stock bov you will just kill the factory t25 in no time as it will be trying to make 17 psi & the factory bov leaks at 12 or 13. You said you already done intake, does that include bov & upper ic pipe? If not I would do that, then exhaust, then add a mbc or 17 psi actuator & a boost gauge. That would be the cheepest/most effective for your budget.

Edit see you've got the uicp & bov so go with exhaust & if your handy pick up some carbide bits and port the turbo & O2 housing, you can pick up some cheep hp & spool time there (my ported t25 would hit 16 psi by 2400 rpms).

You shouldn't be anywares close to outrunning the factory rewired fp with the stock turbo. With all the standard bolt on's I could flow about 25 lb/min with the factory turbo which if I remember correctly was about 85% duty cycle. When I first installed my evoIII turbo before I had my fuel system upgraded I could run it @ 15 psi flowing about 32 lb/min and my injector duty cycle was about %107. But because the cars run so rich from the factory this still wasn't lean enough to make the car knock.

 

[sickgsx-316]

I really wouldnt recommend spending the money on an actuator especially if you plan on upgrading a turbo down the road...its just a waste because the new turbo would come with one or you could run external.

I, like others would recommend exhaust over fuel right now, with a pocketlogger in the near future. You should also look into some basic maintenance like plugs/wires, and then check for boost/exhaust/vacume leaks. You'd be surprised what running a bit of seafoam through your TB would do for checking for exhaust leaks, and the kind of power loss associated with boost/exhaust leaks. Maximize what you have now, and it will maximize future mods. Finding a boost leak you didn't know about is like finding free HP!

 

[92awddsm]

Why would you buy an actuator when you can buy an mbc for less$ and use it with any turbo you get later. It can serve the same purpose(rasing boost level) but it is also a universal item. Just doesnt make sense to me.

Anyway, I would start with a fp rewire, exhaust, then a dp.

 

[whathits14]

Actuator is a waste of money. Boost controller does it for cheaper, even though past 15psi the stock turbo becomes horrible innefficient. exhaust is good. If you have not done UICP + bov now is the time to do it. Your turbo will scream like a jet engine with that and a nice intake. Find a buddy who welds, get the exhaust for pocket change. There is NO reason to get a 255 lph fuel pump for the stock turbo. Not even a 190 really....But there are plenty of reasons NOT to get one. Wait for the turbo upgrade

 

[VRMAN]

The car is basically stock and people are recommending a FPR??

With $250 I would buy the testpipe+exhaust system. After that then save some money for a boost controller, boost gauge and downpipe. After that....well, get to that point first.

 

[funniegus]

Do a fuel pump rewire, make youre own catback exhaust and see if you can get a 14b off of ebay with the money left over.

 

[IslandTSI]

Ok for everyone that doesent want to check my profile ive got a dejon intake pipe and uicp with a greddy type s bov, plus a k&n filter. Im running 14'4s with that. Ive taken out the bcs restrictor and ive got a boost gauge.

Im almost sure an exhaust would be the best idea but I dont want a loud car. I dont think ile have the money or time to make this a stupid fast car so I probably wont be going further then a t28 killer for a turbo, thats why i was thinking about the actuator. Now that I think about it a boost controller would b smarter maybe but who knows. I do all my work myself including learning some welding once I get my exhaust ( I cant weld yet but my old man owns a fab shop where i will learn). The only reason i was thinking of the actuator over the boost controller is because my car on its own is already spiking and running higher boost then it should be so if i buy the actuator it is supposed to flatten out the boost.

Heres my plans for the future for this car and no more,

ported big t28
Ported 2g ehaust manifold (im gonna port this stuff myself)
Tbe exhaust ( Magnaflow 3" in and 2- 2.5" outlets muffler, megan racing downpipe) 3" piping
255lph fuel pump
Aeromotive fuel presure regulator
Boost controller

Posibly a Fmic then dsmlink if I make some decent money out of school.
THeres no awd dynos within 1000km so I cant really tune

So out of that what should be my next mods. Im not going for the b16g cause I want to do everything i my garage with no help outside my friends. I partly bought a dsm for a learning experience and I think a basic turbo changeover is something i would be able to do.

I want low 12's eventually but im in no rush, I love this car and i cant even believe how much ive learned about the 4g63 so far

thaks ryan

 

[DGajre777]

The car is basically stock and people are recommending a FPR??

Recommending a FPR only if he gets a 255. A 190 and stock fuel pump won't need a FPR and unless he plans on getting a FP Red or a 60trim turbo or something huge, he won't even need a 255. People on here have ran 12s on 50 trims and EVO III 16G turbos on a 190 with 660cc injectors.

Island TSI - Having said that, get the 255 and the FPR off the list above and replace it with a 190, that'll save ya some money.

From the list above, I'd get an exhaust and boost controller first.

 

[IslandTSI]

You think the 190 would be a better fit for my plans?? I can get both for the same price and I plan to run the t28 to its limits. I guess the fpr would make the difference in price if I didint need it for my plans.

 

[DGajre777]

The 190 will be more than enough for your T28. The price of the 190 and 255 is almost the same, so why spend money on an AFPR for the 255 when you can just get the 190!?

The 190 is good for up to 400hp. If you click on the link below for FPs Big T28 you'll see the Walbro 190 standard fuel pump as one of the related items for the T28.

http://linux.forcedperformance.net/...uct_Code=NTDSMFPBIG28&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo

 

[SethA]

A T28 would be good, but don't be afraid of not being able to install a mitsubishi turbo. With all of the online and vendor support swapping 16g family turbo is easy. I would say it is barely more work than swapping a T25/T28.

I agree with most of these guys. A rewired stock pump will do fine until you install the new turbo as long as you keep the boost resonable. For now, your fuel pump money is better spent on a down pipe or a logger.

Just because a dyno isn't available doesn't mean you can't tune it yourself (when you get gizmos).

Seth

 

[LaN-]

ok everyone seems to have the same idea for what you should be

Exhaust, Homemade MBC, rewire fuel pump

I think those would be good choices BUT no matter what anyone says I THINK a logger would be the BEST idea. Why you ask ...................... 1 thing i have alway found that helps anyone that plans on moding there car is to make sure they are at 100% first. For example lets say you have boost leaks your, TPS isnt goin to 100% at WOT and other small issues that you cant tell now but if you start throwing mods on the car those small things can become bigger issues then your gonna be scratching your head wondering if what you put on was the issue or if its something else that you didnt know about. (I think you can get what i'm trying to say)

So pretty much buy a logger and make records of everything also check for boost leaks, do all the maintiance, clean out your IC ect..... Then when you know your DSM is at 100% start moding it, that way your going to get the most out of whatever you put on it and it should make everything that much easier.

 

[daren_p]

Ok for everyone that doesent want to check my profile ive got a dejon intake pipe and uicp with a greddy type s bov, plus a k&n filter. Im running 14'4s with that. Ive taken out the bcs restrictor and ive got a boost gauge.

Im almost sure an exhaust would be the best idea but I dont want a loud car. I dont think ile have the money or time to make this a stupid fast car so I probably wont be going further then a t28 killer for a turbo, thats why i was thinking about the actuator. Now that I think about it a boost controller would b smarter maybe but who knows. I do all my work myself including learning some welding once I get my exhaust ( I cant weld yet but my old man owns a fab shop where i will learn). The only reason i was thinking of the actuator over the boost controller is because my car on its own is already spiking and running higher boost then it should be so if i buy the actuator it is supposed to flatten out the boost.

Heres my plans for the future for this car and no more,

ported big t28
Ported 2g ehaust manifold (im gonna port this stuff myself)
Tbe exhaust ( Magnaflow 3" in and 2- 2.5" outlets muffler, megan racing downpipe) 3" piping
255lph fuel pump
Aeromotive fuel presure regulator
Boost controller

Posibly a Fmic then dsmlink if I make some decent money out of school.
THeres no awd dynos within 1000km so I cant really tune

So out of that what should be my next mods. Im not going for the b16g cause I want to do everything i my garage with no help outside my friends. I partly bought a dsm for a learning experience and I think a basic turbo changeover is something i would be able to do.

I want low 12's eventually but im in no rush, I love this car and i cant even believe how much ive learned about the 4g63 so far

thaks ryan

Installing a mbc will also prevent boost spike & help keep your boost stable through the rpm range (of course boost will fall off at high rpms but this is the t25 running out of steam) Before I installed my origional mbc my car did the same, once I put the controller on, nice and solid boost. I would recommend this over the actuator. The 190 pump should be more then enough for what your looking to do, unless your planning on making more then 400 hp save the extra cost and hassle of installing an fpr (~$240). But don't waste your money on the fp till you upgrade the turbo, like I said a re-wire on the stock one will work fine till then. As far as the turbo goes, installing a mitsu 16g series turbo on your car is basically a bolt on, if you could install a t28 then you can install a better flowing/top end evoIII for the same price. Some place such as RRE make a complete install kit with everything needed to make it a complete bolt on but they also offer a "hacker" kit that is about half the money and comes with most of the parts you need, just have to tweek your water feed lines slightly & file the drain line holes slightly bigger which is no big deal. I would say go with the evoIII when the time comes. So add an exhaust with the mbc and a downpipe if you have any left over.

 

[JiveMasterT]

I made a mbc for like $8 in parts from home depot and a spring from a pen and a metal ball out of a puzzle game, and it has held 22psi just fine. best $8 i ever spent on the thing.