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Cayenne Red Pearl 97 GST Spyder

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
Recently replaced front hubs, CV axles, and clutch due to some noise while turning. Clutch was also weak, and I think the prev owner may have installed a NT 4g63 clutch for some reason. Clutch switch was bypassed when I got it with around 130k mi.

Clutch is just a higher rated pressure plate and stock type disc.

Currently on ramps to mess with a crossmember and install a VRSF FMIC because I don't feel like cleaning or reinstalling the dirty SMIC and stock piping.

Rigged an intake to get it onto the ramps after the other work. This rig job was then removed and the intake and turbo inlet & outlet capped off while more work is done.

Once it's running around with the FMIC and T25 ok, I will install a MHI Evo3 16G that I bought for it a while back. DSM Link v3, WB, FP, maybe 550cc injectors, & exhaust that are also on hand. Replacement seats on hand as well since the stock tan leather are cracked.

Only plans for this were a fun street build and restoration. Truth be told, I'll either sell this car or my green GST spyder with FP black and built engine. Time will tell.

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pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
7,827
2,498
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Recently replaced front hubs, CV axles, and clutch due to some noise while turning. Clutch was also weak, and I think the prev owner may have installed a NT 4g63 clutch for some reason. Clutch switch was bypassed when I got it with around 130k mi.

Clutch is just a higher rated pressure plate and stock type disc.

Currently on ramps to mess with a crossmember and install a VRSF FMIC because I don't feel like cleaning or reinstalling the dirty SMIC and stock piping.

Rigged an intake to get it onto the ramps after the other work. This rig job was then removed and the intake and turbo inlet & outlet capped off while more work is done.

Once it's running around with the FMIC and T25 ok, I will install a MHI Evo3 16G that I bought for it a while back. DSM Link v3, WB, FP, maybe 550cc injectors, & exhaust that are also on hand. Replacement seats on hand as well since the stock tan leather are cracked.

Only plans for this were a fun street build and restoration. Truth be told, I'll either sell this car or my green GST spyder with FP black and built engine. Time will tell.

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Nt 4g63 clutch would be a flat flywheel. I also don't think it's possible if you have an f5m33 trans as a gst should. The clutches aren't just different design. They're different diameter also.
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
Nt 4g63 clutch would be a flat flywheel. I also don't think it's possible if you have an f5m33 trans as a gst should. The clutches aren't just different design. They're different diameter also.
That makes sense, thanks. One of my first cars was a 1GB Talon ESI. Never noticed what transaxle it had until now, the F5M22.

Old clutch disc looked fine, so it must have been a weak PP or tolerances. I didn't check (aside from visual) or resurface the flywheel with the clutch change so we'll see what happens.

I'm really hopeful that the noise while turning is gone and that it isn't an early sign of crankwalk.
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
I'm usually systematic when I get a car. Check compression, clean combustion chambers, and change oil, sometimes after running crankcase cleaner / kerosene so that fresh synthetic has less chance of breaking loose any deposits and causing problems.

The TB on this car was supposedly changed by the PO. I don't trust that, of course, so will be checking and replacing it before any power adding mods. If the current belt is a new looking Gates, then I may not bother (or may still). FMIC may do some minor thing with power, but I'm not messing with boost yet. Probably won't until the e16g, supporting fuel, mgmt, and WBO2.

I'm aware of the concern on crankwalk with adding a stiffer clutch / PP, however that's part of why it was done. Shotgunned the other possible causes of the noise while turning (left IIRC). If there's still noise, then I will get more concerned. Itching to go for a test drive, however I *really* didn't want to put that SMIC back on.
 
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shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
Minor FMIC update. Ditched the bumper mounts and took a moment to consider what VRSF intended. Didn't see anything as far as instructions other than someone's YT video who used bumper mounts. If anyone wants the lightened bumper mounts you can have them.

Drilled and tapped the holes pictured (same spot both sides) with 1/4" drill bit and M8x1.25 tap to use longer hardware provided (I think). Cut out rad and headlight support area under passenger headlight as pictured.

Will post final install and power steering cooler mods next. Work interfered yesterday.

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streetraceboi

Moderator
818
348
Sep 4, 2002
San Antonio, Texas
I wonder if the motor was swapped by the PO. It looks to have a 95-96 head based on the cam sensor not being on the end of the cam.
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
I wonder if the motor was swapped by the PO. It looks to have a 95-96 head based on the cam sensor not being on the end of the cam.
Keen observation, and it appears that I've lucked out in a way.

A PO must have done a swap.

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streetraceboi

Moderator
818
348
Sep 4, 2002
San Antonio, Texas
Keen observation, and it appears that I've lucked out in a way.

A PO must have done a swap.

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Well that's pretty awesome then LOL
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
Timing belt looks like some generic part. No good search hits on the part number or first part of the PN.

Will need to replace ASAP after test driving. Probably BSE at the same time if not already done.

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streetraceboi

Moderator
818
348
Sep 4, 2002
San Antonio, Texas
Timing belt looks like some generic part. No good search hits on the part number or first part of the PN.

Will need to replace ASAP after test driving. Probably BSE at the same time if not already done.

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I hope you plan on removing the motor if you're doing the BSE. Its a PITA with the motor still in the car.
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
I hope you plan on removing the motor if you're doing the BSE. Its a PITA with the motor still in the car.
That's a bummer, but great to know. Will avoid doing that for now and just replace belts and associated pulleys and tensioner with better parts.
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
I'm at a crossroads with this project. Well, after a test drive and timing belt change, that is.

Since this has an EPROM ECU, it seems fitting to run DSM Link. Before that discovery (thanks @streetraceboi ), I was just going to throw a MAFT and blow through MAF on it to start off with. It didn't seem like the ideal setup, but as long as it gets enough fuel, I'm not overly picky on this car.

It's just going to be a fun street car, and likely will focus on brakes and suspension after fuel stuff and e16g, assuming all goes well. Maybe AWD conversion on this rather than my other car with FP black. And sell that built spyder with FP turbo. I can hear the screams already, LOL.

Thing is, I have a 3KGT VR4 to put twin e16g's on, and that's going to be primary street machine with built engine and drivetrain. Looking at a Link G4x ECU for that one.

Just thinking out loud.
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
Spent as much time on this PS cooler hardline as I would have installing something better. Unsure what happened to the stock bracket for it, as that aluminum looking piece is all it had. Ended up using two large self tapping screws and grommets to get it to stay where I wanted.

Cut and flared the tubes after the bend toward the back to use flexible tubing from there. It worked out, but I still don't like it and will replace it with a real cooler later on. Fixed the hose clamps after the pictures and bolted the FMIC on to stay for a while now.

Will go with DSM Link and SD once things are sorted (Gates timing belt etc.) and before turbo upgrade.

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shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
Will fix up some aluminum bar brackets to brace the FMIC mounts on each side since a single bolt on each side isn't ideal. Probably rivnuts for those brackets. Don't like using self tapping screws to secure lines, but it's temporary since that PS cooler is on the short list now. 💩
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
I'll go through and consolidate some of this detail later on.

Appears I'm short a 90 to fit up piping to the stock T25 with everything included. I didn't order the FMIC kit with a J pipe and instead ordered a J pipe separately (ebay) for the 16g for later. Oh well. Who the heck wants to run the VRSF FMIC with a stock T25 anyway??

I have a 180 somewhere for some custom piping I was fabricating, however not sure where that is. Ordered a cast 90 from Amazon. Also ordered a Gates TB kit and Aisin tensioner. Sounded special.
 
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shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
This project has been rather annoyingly idle. After waiting for some pieces to fit the FMIC to the T25, I didn't like how that was going to work out, so I pulled the turbo off to replace with an MHI e16g.

Since I need to replace the timing belt, I got all the parts to replace it with a Gates racing belt, and then ordered GSC S1 cams and BC basic valve springs with steel retainers. I don't wish to rev this any higher than stock, however the springs seem prudent anyway to prevent valve float.

Apparently my 16g -4AN oil inlet adapter fitting doesn't have a restrictor, so that's on order. I wanted to get this road worthy over this holiday weekend, so I may TIG that fitting up and drill a 1/16" restrictor. I need to weld an O2 bung on a SS downpipe anyway for the wideband.
 

shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
I keep getting the wrong turbo fittings because I'm retarded. M10x1.25 was listed as TD05, however my E16G has M12 feed port. The drain flange is also different, because duh - replacing Garrett T25 with Mitsu TD05H. Still waiting on the right parts.

My E16G had a fitting for -4AN, however it was aluminum and looked like the threads sucked. I could TIG it up and drill a 1/16" restrictor but would rather not, given the threads.

Measure once and order once, that'll be the new motto...

Meanwhile, I'm replacing the carpet & seats and installing DSM Link. Have stuff for SD as well, but will use on the other GST and keep MAF on this one.
 
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shellhouse

Supporting Member
103
36
Nov 8, 2021
Atlanta, Georgia
Cipher seats, planted brackets, acc carpet. I don't really recommend the carpet. Too much of a pita to cut and fit. Seats sit higher than stock.

Still some trim and other stuff to do, but ok for the moment. May clean up the old carpet eventually and dye black. Had a few cigarette holes, may not be so noticeable black.

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