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car wont start

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boosted92laser

15+ Year Contributor
107
1
Sep 13, 2006
kankakee, Illinois
i bought a 92 laser awd turbo. the engine was freshly rebuilt when i got it, i even had to put it back together. i got it put together and put back in the car. i dont have the wastegate actuator control solenoid or any of the belt and pulleys put on yet. i tried to start it and it wont start. i've checked spark, and it is getting plenty of it. it is getting gas, and it has compression in all cylinders. but it just wont start. ive rotated the crank/cam sensor to quickly adjust the timing, but it still wont start. i cant figure it out and need all the help i can get.
thanks, bill
 
Are the injectors pulsing? Take your test light and verify that you have 12 volts at the injector plug. Once you've verified that, hook your test light to the "positive' post of your battery. You are now testing the grounding circuit which incidentally is the PCM. Steady or no light is bad. Flickering light means at least your injector is getting a signal from the pcm.

Let us know what you find.

Good Luck
 
If you can verify that the injectors are indeed firing, but the car still isn't starting, another typical (and very annoying) cause for a non-start is the coolant temp sensor. You can check resistance at the pins following the guidelines listed in this post (scroll down towards the bottom for a full overview of testing the ECT on a 1g) http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1825130 Check the wires, too. The sensor itself isn't always the bad guy - it's easy to knock the clip loose from the plug when messing around near that area of the engine bay.

Also might be worth a shot to check injector resistance. Should be between 2-3 ohms via testing resistance between the two pins at the top of each injector.

Does the car start with starter fluid? Might be worth a quick test.

I also assume you've checked your ECU, as well as fuel PRESSURE (just because you're getting fuel doesn't necessarily mean you're getting enough of it ;) ) Is there fuel in your return hose if you pull it after cranking the engine? Or how are you checking for fuel, exactly?
 
the good news is that i now have it running. the haynes manual was wrong on the plug wire orientation. i got the right order from my service manual, and it fired right up. but now for the bad news, i am reading negative boost at idle. when i rev it a bit, it jumps to slightly positive, but then drops back down. what could be the problem. keep in mind, this is the 1st turbo car i have owned. i also think i have some vaccuum problems because the idle is a bit high and it fluctuates quite a bit. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
 
boosted92laser said:
the good news is that i now have it running. the haynes manual was wrong on the plug wire orientation. i got the right order from my service manual, and it fired right up. but now for the bad news, i am reading negative boost at idle. when i rev it a bit, it jumps to slightly positive, but then drops back down. what could be the problem. keep in mind, this is the 1st turbo car i have owned. i also think i have some vaccuum problems because the idle is a bit high and it fluctuates quite a bit. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks

By "negative boost" I assume you mean vacuum. Vacuum is good. At idle, you should be reading around 20inHg. As far as the idle surge, check your BISS first. Does the car stall, or feel like the idle will occasionally drop too low for it to "catch"? Once you've adjusted the BISS properly, if you're still having idle issues, we can help you troubleshoot from there. You'll want the idle to read steadily between 750-800.
How's it running otherwise? Have you performed a Boost Leak Test?
 
when i start it up, it runs about 1500 rpms with about -5 psi boost (vaccuum). it doesn't idle down so far as to seem to want to die out. when i blurp the gas, the boost will jump to about +5 psi and then drop to 0, then back to -5 psi. i just got the motor put back together so it isn't even broke in yet, could that have anything to do with it? also the turbo only has about 25 miles on it. i also dont think the vacuum lines are hooked up right on the turbo. can anyone try to explain how to route the vacuum lines off the turbo and wastegate, etc.?
thanks, bill
 
well i got it running much better. it runs really good, except a really bad lifter tick. i narrowed it down to the intake side of cylinder 3. there is about 1/8 inch of play when i push on the rocker arm. i took the lifter out and it wont pump up. when they did the head work, they kept the original lifters, the ones with the really small orifice on top. i am going to replace them all with the third revision ones. i found a set of topline lifters on ebay for 105 with free shipping that i think i will go with. has anybody used topline? i read some of the other threads and the dont have too many people that have used them, but i heard that mitsu gets their lifters from topline and just repackages them. not sure, but will probably get them friday unless someone tells me otherwise.
any input would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
 
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