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car stalling when I decelerate?? help

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Eskibz

Probationary Member
11
0
Jun 27, 2011
Bedford, Ohio
ok on my 95 tsiAWD manual. every time i decelerate too quickly. I can prevent it from happening by "catching the RPM's".. if the Rpms are dropping too fast then it will just stall out when it gets low... my car idles at only about 500 rpms also... what is normal idle????? i only have basic bolt ons. would turning theidle up on the throttle body help??
 
are you venting your BOV?, if you are w/o a gm maf and maf T your running rich so everytime you let of the gas your ecu thinks there is air that is not really there (cause it vents) and runs rich flooding your engine and stalling. Unless you have the proper mods you cant vent your BOV.

bty my car idels at 2k in park and 750 in drive, idk if that is normal or not either.
 
are you venting your BOV?, if you are w/o a gm maf and maf T your running rich so everytime you let of the gas your ecu thinks there is air that is not really there (cause it vents) and runs rich flooding your engine and stalling. Unless you have the proper mods you cant vent your BOV.

bty my car idels at 2k in park and 750 in drive, idk if that is normal or not either.

Not normal.

Anywho, Tim is right as far as venting the BOV goes, however, when it comes to stalling at decel that can point to several other things such as a boost leak, an intake manifold/vacuum leak, your BISS being out of adjustment, your TPS being off, or your ISC may be going bad.

I would make sure to check these few things first before you go tossing parts at the car. There are several write-ups on the site to help diagnose the above listed possible causes. Don't be afraid to search!
 
I figured that it was not LOL. Im still in the process of fixing my car up, When I turn it on for the first time of the day, or after a long period after driving it, it ideals high, surges, and studders. But after my car warms up it runs fairly good, all though studder still exists. After warming and driving my car in park ideals at about 1k-1.5k, but i figure that is still kind of high.
 
To start with your base idle check your TPS as well as BiSS and ISC. I had a bad idle and horrible cold start issues when I first got my talon, tweaked all them did a BLT and went to a 2g mas and now I idle around 1200 at start up and between 750-850 once warm.
 
If the ISC/IAC was working the ECU should try to raise the idle speed when it know the throttle is closed.

First try adjusting the BISS a little to raise the idle. Then check to see if the RPM drop and don't recover when you turn on the AC, turn on the headlights , or try turning the wheel. If they drop and don't recover, the you need to measure the ISC coil resistances and verify that the IPS inside the TPS is working. If any of the ISC coils are shorted the ECU will need repair and the ISC replaces before it will work correctly.
 
I think its a boost/vacuum leak more than likely with your throttle body, do a boost leak test and fix all those if there is any, then if problem still persists, then check voltage resistance on iac motor.
 
I have ran all my DSM's vented without "the proper" mods as you put it without any problems. But I will agree with the BOV possibly being bad. My skyline had the same issue & it was a leaky BOV.

If your BOV is in good working order you will not see any problems venting IMO based on 4 different DSM's & numerous other turbo cars....
 
If your BOV is in good working order you will not see any problems venting IMO based on 4 different DSM's & numerous other turbo cars....

That is a proven can of worms I doubt you really want to open. Don't go offering advice that has proven to be bad, please. What seems 'okay' for one person may become catastrophic for the next.
 
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