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Car runs rough after timing

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Tyme Carrot

Probationary Member
6
0
Nov 7, 2010
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
So about a year ago I blew the crank seal and decided the do the cam seals, crank seal, oil pump, and balance shaft seals as well. I pulled the engine apart and replaced everything that needed to be done, which was a headache all by itself. I had never done timing before but I realized I'd never learn how unless I just went ahead and gave it a shot.

Once everything was lined up and I had spun it by hand a bunch of times, I started it up and it would idle at about 300 RPMs. If I revved it up a bit it would settle at somewhere between 8-900, which seemed fine to me. Now it sounds like its missing and will still sit at about 300 until I give it a little gas. I know every car won't run the same if the timing is a little off but I was told it wouldn't run at all if its even a tooth off, and I was pretty freaking confident that I wasn't.

Ps. The car sat for about a year before it got put back together. I took a video that my phone isn't letting me upload yet but as soon as I can ill post it. Any insight would be much appreciated
 
I'd recheck the timing. It will still run if it's a couple teeth off, just not very well. Is the Check Engine Light on? Have you done a compression test? Have you done a boost leak test?
 
^ agreed. Before I bought mine the kid replaced the timing belt and its off. Intake cam is advanced one tooth and exhast is retarded one tooth. It runs and I get 26 mpg but I have a strange idle and little power untill 3krpms. Bl test and check all vac lines and then check, recheck and check again on the timing.
 
Its hard to tell if the teeth are lines up properly. But the vfaq has an excellent write up with visuals.

If you re time the engine, use bulldog clips on the cam gears to hold the belt in place. Extra fingers if you will.
 
Yeah, I used zip ties on the cam gears. I pulled the codes and got one for my CAS, so I replaced that, which gave me a pretty good excuse to redo the timing as well. I popped the spark plugs and they were drenched in gas and covered in carbon. Could that be related to the CAS?
I started it up again and it's still missing, but it definitely runs better now, so I'm kind of hoping that I fouled out the plugs trying to start it with a bad sensor, and when I change them out it will run perfectly. It's that ridiculous optimism that keeps me pluggin away at this thing
 
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