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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Im gonna try and make this as short as possible. Im currently having a overheating issue with my 89 turbo mirage with a 1g 6 bolt 4g63 swap.

1. I change the thermostat
2. Change the radiator cap
3. Got a new fan 1200cfm
4. Did the pressure relief where it circulated from the back of the thermostat housing back to the water pipe.
5. Pressure tested the system ran it up to 16psi, it slowly leaked pressure and took about 3-4min to get down to 7psi
6. No oil in the coolant / no coolant in the oil
7. Water pump seems to be working, started the car with the radiator cap off and when the car drops in idle and comes back up coolant comes out the water neck.
8. When I took the radiator cap off today it still had pressure in the system 12+ hours since last touched.
9. Car has no heater core
10. Doesn't blow white smoke
11. Doesn't seem to be losing any coolant.
12. The car idled for 15+min and only reached 190* coolant temps but when we drove it around the block literally 1/4 mile the temps jumped from 190* to 220*
13. Base timing seems to be good says the tuner.
14. Compression goes 105-105-110-110 at 5400 elevation and s2 cams and a low battery.

Im trying to eliminated all the possibilities before I start tearing it apart to replace the HG any help will be appreciated.

Thank you.
 
Most DSM's run between 190-210 all day however when I start to drive the coolant shoots past that in no time at all which is alarming. Im thinking cylinder pressure might be causing the temps to rise faster while driving vs sitting at idle. which leads me back to a HG.
 
try pulling the compressor clutch relay and driving with the AC button on max. This will not engage the ac system but will engage both fans. check operation in your driveway. Then check on the highway.

When my car used to overheat, turning on outside air on max heat and engaging the AC (yes on with heat) held me over.

Also, if the coolant gets too low, or the reservoir isn't pulling the expanded coolant back in, you will get air in the system.

MAybe try running more water, or a full bottle of watter wetter, water, and a little actual coolant in the summer.

Just some ideas that worked for me. Ultimately my problem was a pressure leak on a bad thermostat housing seal to the radiator cap.
 
Well I have no A/C or heater core so I can't really do that. I'm also running 2 bottles of purple ice / 20% coolant and the rest water. Oh and my fan is always running once the key is turned on.
 
I just replaced one of the assesory belts on my 94 Talon TSI and now my car will start overheating unless I turn my heat on high, has anybody has this same thing happen to them, let me know, thanks.
 
Is the belt turning the water pump? If it's not then you aren't getting any water flowing through the engine.

If that's good, then try touching your upper and lower radiator hoses, if one is cold while the other one is hot then your thermostat needs replaced. I think the bottom hose would be cold if I remember right.
 
There isn't any coolant leaking and I replaced the belt that is on the alternator and I did run the car without the belt a little just so I could get it home cause the power steering stopped working, the temp rose and my battery drained within a matter of minutes
 
Is the belt turning the water pump? If it's not then you aren't getting any water flowing through the engine.

If that's good, then try touching your upper and lower radiator hoses, if one is cold while the other one is hot then your thermostat needs replaced. I think the bottom hose would be cold if I remember right.
Hey thanks, your suggestion n checking the radiator hoses worked, and it was my thermostat
 
Ok guys I'm over heating.
List of new parts and car.

Car reads 260 on link.

7 bolt 2G , less than 30 miles on NEW MOTOR car.

rebuilt head.
Rebuilt block
New oem thermostat
Coolant/water for the moment in radiator
AC DELETED
HEATERCORE DELETED
BALANCESHAFT DELETED
timing is dead on
Brand new group buy silicone hoses off tuners.
14B MHI coolant silicone hoses.
Brand new two row radiator
New radiator cap
New gates water pump
Fans are always on dsmlink
eBay fans.
Heater core lines looped into each other.
 
Im also having the same problem, i replaced thermostat, had concentrated coolant an added water, an if i drive it regular ( ac on full blast) its kool but wen i get down on it, it starts to rise... an my over flow tank shoots out steam an smoke an can hear it boiling etc... problem still not solved....an help will be apprieciated..
 
If you're boiling than you have a pressure leak in the system. Most common is radiator cap has a weak spring. I my case I just had minor pitting on the lip that the cap presses down on. That was enough to lower the system pressure and allow boil over. I smoothed the pitted spots with epoxy until I could replace the part. Worked well for me. Also, hoses that have very small leaks would lower pressure enough to cause this .
 
I had the same problem. I first replaced the radiator cap, but that didnt help. then I replaced the thermostat, i bought one that opens at a lower temp. The new thermostat costed me $15 online. And now it is running like a champ.
 
[QUOTE="Mauispyder]Most common is radiator cap has a weak spring. I my case I just had minor pitting on the lip that the cap presses down on. That was enough to lower the system pressure and allow boil over. I smoothed the pitted spots with epoxy until I could replace the part. Worked well for me.[/QUOTE]

I had the same problem on my daughters 94 Stealth. I bought it cheap because it was dumping it coolant and overheating. The inner flange for the radiator cap was badly corroded so it couldn't seal. It was one place where JR Weld was perfect to build the surface back up and easy to machine flat. Never got around to replacing that thermostat neck it worked so well.
 
my 4g63 is over heating i replaced the thermostat... is their a specific way i should install it? like horizontal or vertical?

Also when driving if i turn the heater on it will bring the temp down to normal operating temp.
Im completely stock only running 9 lbs should i get a front mount to help with cooler air? it seems to start getting hot if under load. but normal cruising 30mph it does fine. any help is appreciated thanks in advance

also i replaced cap and new fluid 50/50 also my over flow tank gets full after i top off the coolant.. which i dont understand. after market alum rad and i have both fans to run permanently
 
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Okay, first of all I'm a little confused with the installing of the thermostat horizontally, or vertically. Not sure what you mean by that... You just put it in the housing with the spring side down and that's it.

As far as the heater bringing your temps down that is common, but the car shouldn't be overheating when you're not running the heat. Are you positive the cooling system is completely purged of air and topped off?
A front mount intercooler is not going to bring down your coolant temps, in fact it will probably raise them a bit from the blocked airflow to the radiator.

The overflow tank shouldn't be getting full. Maybe you should try to start with a new radiator cap.
 
I agree with new radiator cap. Also my car was having issues in the FL heat and it turned out my slim fan just wasn't cutting it. I pulled out the slim fan that came with my punishment racing aluminum radiator and put in a SPAL fan that moves way more air. My car is now happy as can be just cruising around, I still have issues with mid afternoon heat and running the AC but I have a giant front mount blocking the radiator.

Are you running stock fans still or aftermarket?
 
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