Car is in Limp mode and Clutch falls to the floor at times

[hypergenesis]

This problem DOES NOT have to occur with the car that I have under my profile it has to do with another Eclipse Gs-t I purchased for parts and am now fixing up to resell. The car currently will not go over 3500 RPM's or the car will start sputtering , hence why I said limp mode.

The second thing is that the car's clutch does not always engage and allow for me to change gears. The owner I bought it from, when I went to check out the car, ran the car without any clutch fluid in that small container and then this problem started to arise. I have already bled the clutch about 12 times or so and it stopped just simply falling to the floor but it will not always allow me to put the car into another gear. The small thing that helps this is just continuously pumping the clutch over and over then trying again until it works.


Any help is greatly appreciated

Armin

 

[bradselph]

Sounds like air in the lines still to me.

Get a buddy to press the peddle while you look under the car at the slave.

Not sure on the sputtering past 3500, I see that everywhere on this board so the answer for that is around.

 

[cliffkemp]

if it is leaking hydralic fluid, it is probably the slave cylinder. Mine went bad late last year in atlanta in morning rush hour traffic and that was fun.....

the sputtering may be caused by the plugs/plug wires or, it may be running very, very rich/lean.

I would check the plugs and gaps, then check to be sure the plugs 'click' in properly. If it has an AFR meter, running around 10 or so and boost is too high will cause it to sputter.

 

[hypergenesis]

oh the other problem is the turbo does not spool to well. You do not hear or feel any type of psi going through or any type of release from the BOV

 

[MY1GDSM]

Do a Boost leak test and Bleed your clutch an Adjust it correctly...

After either Replacing you Clutch master & slave Cylinder or fixing the break in your lines that is causing the Air to enter... .

I wouldn't be surprised if it's leaking under your dash from the Master Cylinder though... Take a look an Read this thread<--- Click...

 

[cliffkemp]

sounds like you have a huge leak in the intake track after the turbo. I would check all the connectors. Could be that, the blowoff valve is leaking bad when under boost as well.

Check the intake track and find all leaks and see what it does then.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Intake track meaning Intercooler piping, not the Turbo's intake...

 

[hypergenesis]

The blow off valve I bought off of liquid from the forums and generally speaking he does not sell bad merchandise.

I ended up taking out the spark plugs n what not and they all have a carbon residue on them.

the car does have an apex'i AVC-R and SAFCII in it as well so I am coming closer to the conclusion that the car wasn't tuned right with the 2 controllers or the ECU cannot comprehend and run the car right since I took a FPIK filter, FMIC, 3" turbo back and what not off of it and made it completely stock.

But I did check all connectors from the turbo to the side mount to the intake and what not, took them all off and re-tightened everything

As for the clutch I do not have another person to help me out currently so I am going to have to wait to see with that.

 

[MY1GDSM]

the car does have an apex'i AVC-R and SAFCII in it as well so I am coming closer to the conclusion that the car wasn't tuned right with the 2 controllers or the ECU cannot comprehend and run the car right since I took a FPIK filter, FMIC, 3" turbo back and what not off of it and made it completely stock.

A AVC-r has nothing to do with fueling...

The SAFC should be nearly zero'd out unless you have upgraded fuel injectors.

But I did check all connectors from the turbo to the side mount to the intake and what not, took them all off and re-tightened everything

That is not a Boost leak test...

As for the clutch I do not have another person to help me out currently so I am going to have to wait to see with that.

You don't need a second person, you can bleed your brakes and clutch on your own...

Same principle applys with the clutch... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...00353-brake-bleeding-one-person-bleeding.html

 

[hypergenesis]

A AVC-r has nothing to do with fueling...

The SAFC should be nearly zero'd out unless you have upgraded fuel injectors.


That is not a Boost leak test...



You don't need a second person, you can bleed your brakes and clutch on your own...

Same principle applys with the clutch... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...00353-brake-bleeding-one-person-bleeding.html

Never said AVC-R had to do with fueling I meant it as if the boost might be incorrectly tuned.


As for the second thing I know its not a boost leak test I do not have all the Junk I need to do it on the spot right now and Im short on cash for the time being since I just bought 4 new tires.

And awesome I thought you did need 2 people

Also thanks for your help
Armin

 

[Vistagecko]

I had the same problem when I replaced my slave cylinder. We bled it again and again but the pedal just wouldn't build pressure. We had a vacuum bleeder at the shop which did the trick perfectly in about 30 seconds. Haven't had a clutch issue since.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

As for the second thing I know its not a boost leak test

Sorry Armin, but that's not going to cut it.

To bolster my comment:

-BLT
-ngk bpr6es plugs gapped at 0.028"
-wires
-improperly tuned SAFC

What injectors did you say you were running? And what is the SAFC currently setup like?