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2G Car died while driving, won't restart. I need serious help!!!

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stugotsv10

Proven Member
114
21
May 21, 2021
Connecticut
So I picked up a 99 GST yesterday, Fully rebuilt engine, Forged everything, AEM whole 9 yards, other then running a little rich, it ran flawless the whole way home (200 miles or so) about 25 miles from my house, rolling up to a light (now since this is a new build with like 400 miles on it now I'm not hammering this thing AT ALL) press the clutch to down shift and BOOM she drops STONE dead, I coast to the side of the road, she won't fire and has a fast cranking, fast to the point where it doesnt sound like its catching just "Free spinning"

After a WAR to get her home because its lowered, I have it towed home, pull the plugs, they look a bit fouled so I clean em (at this time no where is open to get new ones) pistons look good, crank it with no plugs, feel big gusts of air so there is movement, pop em back in, try some starting fluid NO change.

Now I checked spark on all 4 BUT to be honest to ME it looked weak but I know NOTHING about these cars so IDK what is an acceptable spark, I know coming from Mustangs and Vettes that spark looked weak as all hell.

Timing belt look fine, gotta love those see through brackets LOL

Any ideas here? I'm LOST LOST LOL
 
Agree and you can probably just "rent" one.
 
Look man, you really don't even have to do a compression test. We already know you have no compression and if stuff is all bent up in there you might not want to be cranking the thing over more than you have to. Check your timing marks. They are not going to line up. If for some reason there is a miracle and they line up then we need to investigate further
 
Your symptom is EXACTLY what happened when the tiny little $25 balance shaft snapped and went into my timing belt, causing it to jump teeth and bend all the valves. Sucks man but it really seems like you jumped timing. It's super easy to line the marks up and check man so you should really start there like everyone else has mentioned. Keep us updated.
 
So if god forbid this happens again, Performance valves wont save this?

Trying to get my friend to help me out today actually
 
Forgive the "Dumb" questions but im coming from the Vette / Viper / Mustang world. If a well known shop with alot of good reviews screwed up timing this thing to where it jumped and bent valves in a few hundred miles at most, is it just THAT hard to time these things???
 
I don't want to give you the wrong idea here, we are all here to help. After being in this community for awhile I would never jump ship. The people in the dsm community are probably the reason we are all still here after all this time. I am talking people will stay up to help you fix your car until 4am knowing that later that day you will be racing against them.

Now with that being said, honestly it might be in your best interest to not touch anything. If you bought this car and it died before you even got it home anything you touch will give the shop you bought it from ammo to say it is your fault and if they don't stand behind there work tell us the name and word will get around
 
Halls Auto in pleasant mount PA.

The former owner is REALLY cool and trying everything he can to get this resolved but SO FAR this "Shop" has told him to pound sand
 
I honestly think this is what you are going to find......those are SuperTech Nitrided valves that are necked down closer to the head of the valve for increase flow characteristics. The ONE straight valve is a stock 6T exhaust valve that is NOT reduced closer to the valve head.
I really think that if I hadn't had the "necked down" valves, they might have just punched holes in my pistons. Although costly, I still feel lucky. It didn't hurt any piston ring lands, just left 4 small marks on each piston. I tore the whole engine down to check it.
A bore scope would also show you what is going on too without rolling the motor over anymore. I luckily have one. Maybe you can rent one for a looksee.
Also, check the center crankshaft pulley bolt and note if it is tight or loose. Mine.....was loose as hell resulting in the picture of what it did. Simple bolt not tight like it should have been.


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Update: going to a new shop since I been getting the run around at this one (seems they like dont want to do it)
 
The Evo 8-9 4g63 factory exhaust valves are sodium filled, that would be an upgrade but they might be costly to buy factory valves, when I have pistons made I have extra deep valve pockets made into the top of them to give the valves more room in case things jump a tooth or more.
 

I know these are intake but are these pretty much what your talking about?
 

I know these are intake but are these pretty much what your talking about?
No. You want OEM EVO 8/9 valves. Not aftermarket
 
I think these are the correct part numbers:

Intake MD127840
Exhaust MD184078

 
First thing I did to my car other than change the oil I was nervous but I did it, just followed the book. Got parts and pulled the head.
 
Guys im having a hard time finding people who work on this car, its like no one wants to touch a modded car. 3 questions while I wait for another shop to likely tell me to pound sound

1. Can a crack position sensor cause this?
2. Can the AEM software do this? I know the car was running rich and the tune was well.. not right
3. I can NOT find the proper AEM software for this car, how do I know which one it should be?
 
You might try getting in touch with Darren at DTR. He is pretty good with AEM stuff but he is a busy transmission guy so I don't know how much spare time he has.
 
Sorry if I missed it, but Spark?
Here is a scenario that fits the description: - Push the clutch down to shift - Boom dead.

This assumes a crank trigger plate and crank sensor setup (stock 2G)

If you have excessive thrust bearing play in the crank, pushing down the clutch could push on the crank enough to push the crank trigger plate into the sensor, breaking it.

No crank signal = no spark = no go.

Check for spark. (if you didn't do that already)
 
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