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2G Cams

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Tyler Davis

5+ Year Contributor
95
10
Feb 18, 2019
Kenosha, Wisconsin
Hey guys,

so I’m running a bastard 20g on my GST and am wondering what the best cam selection would be for that. I’ve got basic bolt ons like 3inch exhaust/air filter/ evo3 exhaust mani. I was thinking kelford 264/268 combo, but just wanted to get other opinions. I’m shooting for anywhere from 300-400 hp. It’s a daily so I wouldn’t want to do anything much bigger and I would also like to keep the stock valvetrain for now at least. I’ve heard the 272s really kill low end so I’m shying away from that.
 
For stock valve terrain something like hks 264 would be good or very mild cams like that. A 264/272 hks split set up works very well too. I would NOT go to a aggressive cam like Kelford 272 or GSC S2.
 
I agree, I'd probably find some HKS272 or similar old school 272's. The kelfords and GSC seem to have such an agressive ramp rate they are kinda hard on springs, and beat the lifters down and have more lifter tick.
 
Hey guys,

so I’m running a bastard 20g on my GST and am wondering what the best cam selection would be for that. I’ve got basic bolt ons like 3inch exhaust/air filter/ evo3 exhaust mani. I was thinking kelford 264/268 combo, but just wanted to get other opinions. I’m shooting for anywhere from 300-400 hp. It’s a daily so I wouldn’t want to do anything much bigger and I would also like to keep the stock valvetrain for now at least. I’ve heard the 272s really kill low end so I’m shying away from that.
I used to run the HKS 264 with a 20g and I liked it a lot. The HKS 264 and 272 are really good cams, but these are already discontinued. So if it's hard to find a good used set, I recommend you to consider to go the Kelford 258 instead of the Kelford 264/268 especially if you want to keep the low/mid range torque. The Kelford 258 is a 258/264 combo and the spec is very close to the HKS 264/272 combo.
 
I personally wouldn’t go with gsc or kelford with that setup. 350-400 id go with what these other guys suggested and find at least an HKS272s. 264s would be a tad small. Another good cam I see that pops up would be FP2s. Stick with the older style stuff if you can.
 
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I'm targeting the same hp range with mine when I'm done with it...it doesn't make much sense to go higher with a FWD daily car, especially without LSD....I'll be upgrading to a 20g as well...but for now it has the small 16g with some kind of 272 cams...bought it this way.....messed around a lot with the idle...finally got it to idle, though it's really rough...a big shaky loping idle, around 5-600 rpm but soon as I get my DSMlink installed I'll raise it up....one thing I noticed is that the car breathes so good with 3 inch exhaust, intake and header that it has pretty good low end...plus the cams seem to kick in around 2400rpm and it really goes! Or maybe it's the turbo spooling up idk...but the gas mileage sucks....probably get worse with the big injectors and fuel pump/FPR I'll be installing soon....hoping DSMlink will be a cure all....
 
Be careful when using a manufacturer's classification for a camshaft like 264/268/272. Often times, that means absolutely nothing when comparing camshafts from different manufacturers. For example, the BC 272 is probably milder than the Kelford 264 and Tomei 260. But the Kelford 272 is absolutely enormous by comparison.

GSC S1, Kelford 258 or 264, Tomei 260, BC 272 are all reasonable entry-level cams that are still available new, and would work for your application.
 
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for a street build/daily driver under 400hp i would put the stock cams back in and degree them. MAYBE do a regrind but that would be it. there is a lot better areas to spend the money on than cams in a street car. cams primarily move the power around, great if you are building an 8000rpm car, next to useless stop light to stop light.

the stock cams do not like super short intake runners either. so don't take the cam money and buy a drag manifold thinking you struck gold.
 
for a street build/daily driver under 400hp i would put the stock cams back in and degree them. MAYBE do a regrind but that would be it. there is a lot better areas to spend the money on than cams in a street car. cams primarily move the power around, great if you are building an 8000rpm car, next to useless stop light to stop light.

the stock cams do not like super short intake runners either. so don't take the cam money and buy a drag manifold thinking you struck gold.
That’s not true at all. An advertised 256-272 cam is perfect for those power levels. We dialed in an old grind BC 272 on a 16g pump has setup made 325 to the wheels. Hits peak torque at 4k. But it made its peak power at 7k. This thing has a super wide powerband over what we had on the stock cams. The best part is is uses 10-12% more idc on the street over the dyno and will bang off the 7450 limited on 3rd gear without notice.

The biggest thing is knowing what the actual cam duration is and how much lift you need for the power you making.
 
I run FP2's and have gotten to those numbers easily with a Holset. My head is upgraded substantially, however they are not known to be very aggressive cams at all....They are drop-in and don't really mess with idle...too much. : o )

-Scott
 
That’s not true at all. An advertised 256-272 cam is perfect for those power levels. We dialed in an old grind BC 272 on a 16g pump has setup made 325 to the wheels. Hits peak torque at 4k. But it made its peak power at 7k. This thing has a super wide powerband over what we had on the stock cams. The best part is is uses 10-12% more idc on the street over the dyno and will bang off the 7450 limited on 3rd gear without notice.

The biggest thing is knowing what the actual cam duration is and how much lift you need for the power you making.

its funny how you said thats not true at all, then in the same thought mentioned peak HP at 7500RPM (500rpm off from what i said...fine)

look i don't disagree that there are better cams than the stock ones, especially if you EVER go to the strip. and the stock cams tend to fall off before 6000RPM. but if your truly building a fast DD, and you admit to yourself that the 6500RPM redline is fine, the stock cams are not a bad choice. plus it will idle normal.
 
its funny how you said thats not true at all, then in the same thought mentioned peak HP at 7500RPM (500rpm off from what i said...fine)

look i don't disagree that there are better cams than the stock ones, especially if you EVER go to the strip. and the stock cams tend to fall off before 6000RPM. but if your truly building a fast DD, and you admit to yourself that the 6500RPM redline is fine, the stock cams are not a bad choice. plus it will idle normal.
No, my point is I’m saying that ain’t right he ages under 400whp cams are 100% a great upgrade. Anything in the upper 200s deserve and upgrade. We wouldn’t have made 325whp on stock cams with what we got going on. Degreeing them isn’t gonna give us that magical HP. The cams are what gave us the super wide power band. And if you think after 6k stock cams aren’t any good your wrong again. My auto car on a 13g shifts it’s self 500 rpms passed the stock shift point with stock cams. Think last time out it was at 6700-6800. It needs the power to push passed the converter to even do that.
 
No, my point is I’m saying that ain’t right he ages under 400whp cams are 100% a great upgrade. Anything in the upper 200s deserve and upgrade. We wouldn’t have made 325whp on stock cams with what we got going on. Degreeing them isn’t gonna give us that magical HP. The cams are what gave us the super wide power band. And if you think after 6k stock cams aren’t any good your wrong again. My auto car on a 13g shifts it’s self 500 rpms passed the stock shift point with stock cams. Think last time out it was at 6700-6800. It needs the power to push passed the converter to even do that.

you are again correct but really, we are not in disagreement. "We wouldn’t have made 325whp on stock cams..." absolutely correct, but the cams you installed shifted the peak out towards the end of the RPM run. remember that you always build power as you build RPM unless there is another force working on the engine. (ie: you run out of fueling or the intake goes restrictive do to runner size)

you basically prove my point with you stock cam 13g car. you are running just a smidgen above stock redline with a small turbo and using the advantages of the stock cams (they build torque more quickly out of boost) to compensate.

all i am saying is the cams CAN be upgraded if your engine is set up to work with them. but if you work WITH the stock cams (like you did on your auto car) they will work good too. you will not make peak HP numbers on stock cams, but the car would feel good on the butt dyno because it would have a more gradual dyno chart (but it is still a turbo car, so not that gradual)
 
I did not work the stock cams. They are still set to zero.

All I’m saying is cams are definitely a needed upgrade between the 300-400whp level. That’s all.
 
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