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Cam Gear Fixing Tool (jayRacing)

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97gsxIA

10+ Year Contributor
419
45
Apr 22, 2011
Des Moines, Iowa
Well, my camshafts are leaking so I might as well replace the TB as well. I ordered the Jayracing Cam Gear Fixing tool to lock the cam gears in position. I've heard this makes timing belt jobs so much easier/faster so I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

My question is should I leave the tool in between the cam gears for the whole job? including breaking loose the cam gear bolts (still using wrench on cam shaft etc etc) as well as doing the TB job?

The last time I did a TB job I had to compensate for the tension by adjusting the exhaust sprocket off by 1 tooth. If i leave the tool in there with all the proper tension can I just leave it in there until the job is done and not have to compensate for that 1 toothe tension displacement?

I'm only concerned about this because the tool is infact plastic as most of you know. I don't want to break it or have timing issues for leaving it in for the whole job.
 
I'm using the cam tool to do the TB job after I replace the cam seal. I was more worried about using it since the last time I changed the TB I had to adjust the exhaust cam gear for the 1 tooth offset that happened when I put tension on the TB and was worried that i might run into an issue if i left it in while tensioning the belt.

Other than that, since I am doing the TB after the cam seal replacement, can I allign the cams for the TB job (cam gear marks facing eachother) before I remove the cam or does it have to be at TDC (dowel pins at 12 o'clock)? Also, when I put the cam shaft with new seal back in how do i make sure the timing is correct since I've taken out the whole shaft and seperated it from the gear? do I just slide the gear back on the shaft and rest it on the cam journals relatively close to TDC and fine adjust it when doing the timing?

Please bear with me because I havent messed with the cams while the head was still attached to the block before and I dont want to be moving the cams around while the valves have a chance to touch the pistons.

I'm referring to this as I ask these questions:
Installing Cams into a 4G63
 
I just did my cam seals on car. Basically put it in time while doing seals, then you can only reinstall the gears one way. Then torque to spec and proceed with timing job, it is actually really easy to do in car. You may want to loosin the cam cap that's over the seal makes it easier to get in and out then torque back to spec. And make sure you use alittle oil on the new seal when installing.
 
I know about the dowel pins as i have taken them out before, I'm just weary that I'll touch the valves to the pistons when moving them to time them from 12'oclock posistion ( TDC/cam removal position) to 3 and 9 oclock position (standard timing position)

So I'm wondering can I just set the cams to 3 and 9 (notches matched up) and then replace cam seal, leave the gears in that timing position for the TB change so I dont have to change the crank position/cam position with no belt on in order to go from TDC(12oclock) to standard timing position(3and9 oclock).

Maybe I'm just confusing myself, but I'm just worried that when I take the belt off with cams at 12oclock then have to move them AND the crank (With no belt on) to the standard timing positions for both crank and cams that there could be complications since no belt is on and i dont have 3 hands.
 
You are over thinking some.

once you drop the belt, rotate the crank 90* CCW or backwards, now the pistons are far enough down in the bore that the valves will not hit.

Pull cams/head

Do what you need to do, replace HG, valve seals ect..

Install head..

Install cams, now rotate the cams into position, Dowels at 12

Now gently rotate the crank 90* CW or forward and line up time marks.

Set your belt and finish up.
 
You are over thinking some.

once you drop the belt, rotate the crank 90* CCW or backwards, now the pistons are far enough down in the bore that the valves will not hit.
up.

Thanks Bogus, I didn't have enough timing knowledge to realize that all the pistons were far enough away to make this adjustment.

Thanks again everyone for the feedback, I'll get it done and move this thread onto 'resolved' status.
 
Thanks Bogus, I didn't have enough timing knowledge to realize that all the pistons were far enough away to make this adjustment.

Thanks again everyone for the feedback, I'll get it done and move this thread onto 'resolved' status.

Just remember to rotate the crank back to TDC before installing the belt. Rotate it clockwise, of course.
 
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