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450whpGSX

15+ Year Contributor
287
1
Sep 29, 2004
HMD, Indiana
OK here's the deal my car now has about 145K miles on it and has a hell of a boost leak. so im gonna rebuild the ebgine. can somebody give me a good setup. im planning on rebuilding my 7 bolt since i don't wanna mess witha 6 bolt swap. i have seen some companies with crankwalk solutions, has anybody tries these? i'm aiming for about 400WHP. also what kind of turbo should i go with. i wanna start off with a different block since mine alot of miles on it and then when i finish it install it. thanks to all who give feedback
 
450whpGSX said:
OK here's the deal my car now has about 145K miles on it and has a hell of a boost leak. so im gonna rebuild the ebgine. can somebody give me a good setup. im planning on rebuilding my 7 bolt since i don't wanna mess witha 6 bolt swap. i have seen some companies with crankwalk solutions, has anybody tries these? i'm aiming for about 400WHP. also what kind of turbo should i go with. i wanna start off with a different block since mine alot of miles on it and then when i finish it install it. thanks to all who give feedback

Hold up. You say you car has a boost leak... What exactly do you mean by this and how did you arrive at this conclusion?

What is the car for? daily driving? What kind of abuse is it going to take, and how much money do you have?

Why are you so stuck on the 7 bolt? Would you consider a stroker motor? There is NO guaranteed "crankwalk" solution. there are ideas with pricetags attached, but thats about it.

There really is absolutely no reason to buy a new block if with a simple bore and hone, and some other minor machining work, its back to new.

Your post is extremely vague. Please answer the above questions, and I'm sure that I, as well as others, can help guide you in the right direction. :dsm:
 
drivemusicnow said:
Your post is extremely vague. Please answer the above questions, and I'm sure that I, as well as others, can help guide you in the right direction. :dsm:
Not to mention there are technical forums where this subject might be better discussed. My advice to you, sir? Sell it and buy a non-turbo. :D
 
450whpGSX said:
OK here's the deal my car now has about 145K miles on it and has a hell of a boost leak. so im gonna rebuild the ebgine. can somebody give me a good setup. im planning on rebuilding my 7 bolt since i don't wanna mess witha 6 bolt swap. i have seen some companies with crankwalk solutions, has anybody tries these? i'm aiming for about 400WHP. also what kind of turbo should i go with. i wanna start off with a different block since mine alot of miles on it and then when i finish it install it. thanks to all who give feedback

Cmon fellas, lets give the guy alittle something he can move on. About 2 months ago, I was in your same position. 145k miles on a stock 4g63 7 bolt /w my 50trim and all the goodies, which ran fine (only @ 15psi tuned, because its what I felt was safe with that motor, didnt want to take any chances). Then talked it through with a DSM friend of mine. I wanted to rebuild my motor to withstand 400Whp or so.

Well I looked into just rebuilding my 7bolt but I didnt have a doner car to drive to work nor could afford a rental for 2-3 weeks. So what I we came up with is this. Bought a 2002 7 bolt 4g64 2.4L short block. Took everythingout, sent it to the machine shop which they BLUEPRINTED my motor when i sent them 2.4L 9:5 to 1 weisco pistons, eagle rods, crank, new bearrings, Studs, high flow oil pump, everything and had it fully machined( They had it for 1 month, but still had my car to drive while it was getting the work done). Find you a good machine shop in the area with a good reputation and you will have no worries, shit I even got my motors machine work Guaranteed!

Then I decided I would be safer to just replace the head and have it built too. So I purchaced a low mile 99 4g63 head and took it apart and replaced EVERYTHING! Crower springs/ retainers, valves, lifers, ARP head studs, cometic head gasket *need 94 galant cam gears and timing belt most importantly*. Had it machined and looking brand new in only 1 week. If you do your research, you can get your head and short block cheap. More importantly make sure you replace all hoses, gaskets, seals, I even did new motor mounts, new act2600 clutch, and 8LB fidanza flywheel while everthing was out. Of couse it all depends on your budget. But if your going to do it, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!! If you cant afford to build or rebuilt your motor with at least new hoses and seals and gaskets, dont to it untill you can. I cant stress this enough and Wish you the best on what you deside to do!

If you or any DSMer has any questions on my build, ill be glad to answer them and give whatever advise or info i can.
 
450whpGSX said:
OK here's the deal my car now has about 145K miles on it and has a hell of a boost leak.

Normally if you have a boost leak, you just find the leak and fix it. Rebuilding the motor is not necessary at all.

What are the compression numbers of each cylinder? I've seen motors with 150k miles look brand new.
 
drivemusicnow said:
Hold up. You say you car has a boost leak... What exactly do you mean by this and how did you arrive at this conclusion?

i knew it had a boost leak for a while now but haven't put any money into in since it had so many miles i would rather just rebuild it.

What is the car for? daily driving? What kind of abuse is it going to take, and how much money do you have?

it is for daily driving but i want it to be a sleeper so i plan on taking it to the track a couple times, i don't have much money know that's why i want to know about how much it will be

Why are you so stuck on the 7 bolt? Would you consider a stroker motor? There is NO guaranteed "crankwalk" solution. there are ideas with pricetags attached, but thats about it.

i got a GS-T so a stroker motor is probably out of the question.

There really is absolutely no reason to buy a new block if with a simple bore and hone, and some other minor machining work, its back to new.

good point

Your post is extremely vague. Please answer the above questions, and I'm sure that I, as well as others, can help guide you in the right direction. :dsm:

Done
 
SpoolingSpyder said:
Cmon fellas, lets give the guy alittle something he can move on. About 2 months ago, I was in your same position. 145k miles on a stock 4g63 7 bolt /w my 50trim and all the goodies, which ran fine (only @ 15psi tuned, because its what I felt was safe with that motor, didnt want to take any chances). Then talked it through with a DSM friend of mine. I wanted to rebuild my motor to withstand 400Whp or so.

Well I looked into just rebuilding my 7bolt but I didnt have a doner car to drive to work nor could afford a rental for 2-3 weeks. So what I we came up with is this. Bought a 2002 7 bolt 4g64 2.4L short block. Took everythingout, sent it to the machine shop which they BLUEPRINTED my motor when i sent them 2.4L 9:5 to 1 weisco pistons, eagle rods, crank, new bearrings, Studs, high flow oil pump, everything and had it fully machined( They had it for 1 month, but still had my car to drive while it was getting the work done). Find you a good machine shop in the area with a good reputation and you will have no worries, shit I even got my motors machine work Guaranteed!

Then I decided I would be safer to just replace the head and have it built too. So I purchaced a low mile 99 4g63 head and took it apart and replaced EVERYTHING! Crower springs/ retainers, valves, lifers, ARP head studs, cometic head gasket *need 94 galant cam gears and timing belt most importantly*. Had it machined and looking brand new in only 1 week. If you do your research, you can get your head and short block cheap. More importantly make sure you replace all hoses, gaskets, seals, I even did new motor mounts, new act2600 clutch, and 8LB fidanza flywheel while everthing was out. Of couse it all depends on your budget. But if your going to do it, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!! If you cant afford to build or rebuilt your motor with at least new hoses and seals and gaskets, dont to it untill you can. I cant stress this enough and Wish you the best on what you deside to do!

If you or any DSMer has any questions on my build, ill be glad to answer them and give whatever advise or info i can.

around how much did this run you?
 
did you have any problems with the ECU or any wiring or stuff like that?
 
450whpGSX said:


Okay, I'm going to assume (please correct this if i'm assuming incorrectly) that by boost leak you really mean that your cylinders are not holding compression.

If you are set on rebuildling the motor, but still have to drive the car to work daily, I would do like SpoolingSpyder did and rebuild a seperate motor while still driving your car around.

If you don't have a lot of money, but a lower mileage stock engine that is in good shape. stock motors have held 400whp however I wouldn't suggest this option. Figure somewhere between 800 and 1400 for this option

IF you can be without your car for a while, then heres what I would do.

Using your block. Take it to a GOOD machine shop and see what they say. Its possible that it may not be a motor you want to rebuild. If the block and crank are good (read, no scoring) bore, hone, new rods, new pistons, new gaskets and be done. figure about 2100-2600$ for this option. Now realize... this motor has a possiblity of crankwalk, and all gaskets, machining and bearings will be lost $$ if it does so.

If you want to eliminate the crankwalk possibility, build a 6 bolt.
 
450whpGSX said:
around how much did this run you?


Everything installed(by a friend,) and machined ran me around $3500 (I had my Block powder coated black and Valve Cover polished in this process). This is including the clutch/motor mounts/flywheel/hoses/gaskets/balance shaft removal kit. Prices may vary on parts. Have to shop around for whos got deals etc etc.

A rebuild would cost around $1500-2k. I just did it part at a time. Bought the short block and sent it to the machine shop(when parts came in, i sent them there as well). 2 weeks later bought the head/parts and sent it to the machine shop. 1 month, I bought everything elce as the motor was ready to go in.

!!! IMPORTANT !!!
Do this at your own pace as budget allows. It took me 5 years to finally be able to do this. Everyone has there time when they shine. Ive spent more money over the past 5 years fixing basic things than my mods cost. I should have did way before my rims or my body kit etc. Fix those boost leaks, gaskets, hoses first, then buy performance parts 1 at a time. If it takes 6 months or even a year ITS WORTH IT. I had my car for 5 years and mostly running a t25 that can like crap. It was really hard to modify my car because i was going to college and had a full time job throghout. Now that ive graduated, self employed. I can afford to do pretty much anything. But play it smart. I got all my parts off deals or specials or the like. Never pay retail and shop around and research. Get 3 or 4 opinions then deside what you want to do. If you can only afford basic rebuild or a low milage engine, than maybe 400hp might be abit to expensive of a HP goal. Not that the engine cant or wont handle it. Your going to spend ALOT of money elcewhere, tuning, gas, turbo upgrade, exhaust and most importantly, the things that you didnt replace become a BIGGER ISSUE now.

*NOTE* I did not do the install nor the machine work myself. It just so happends there are afew DSMers in AZ that are VERY knowledgeable and were willing to help me in this project. So the price may vary on weither you can do the Labor yourself. So that price has labor INCLUDED. And the install did NOT HAVE any wiring harness issues. I was there on the install and it was pretty much like taking it off.

I AM NOT TRYING TO HYJACK this thread. Just sharing my similar experiance and sharing advise I was given. Happens so, I am answering questions as they come along. :dsm:
 
listen here are the two most IMPORTANT things i'm gonna tell before doing a rebuild ok...

1. Make sure you have another car!!! Even if you have to buy a cheap $500 POS. Cause things don't always go as planned.

2. WTF are you thinking!?! change it to a six bolt, if you gonna do this, do it right the first time. There are NO solutions to Crankwalk, it's like AID's there are no cures!!


Thank you for you time and may the DSM gods be with you
 
whatever you do DO NOT REBUILD THAT 7 BOLT MOTOR!!!! i was stupid and completely rebuilt a 7 bolt and it didnt last .....i wasted my time and money and should have just dropped a 6 bolt like everyone said....do not do it take my wasted time and money as a lesson to no do it! (before you rag on me.....i know, i was stupid and rebuilt it, its just one of those DSM lessons learned)
 
450whpGSX said:
Not quite, what drivemusicnow was trying to get at is that boost leaks and rebuilds usually don't mix, unless the leaks are at either valve seals (no rebuilt necessary) or rings (bad compression). Just want to make sure you don't tear down a perfectly working motor.
 
dr1665 said:
Sell it and buy a non-turbo. :D

LOL, I'd never thought I'd see this day! :D

Another thing I'd thought I'd never see, is a 1g 6bolt motor crank walk, I was chilling at my shop where my car is getting some emange work done, and noticed a 4g63 motor and 2g eclipse with no motor in in it, I figured 6bolt swap. Till I was told that it already had a 6bolt and that it walked on him, I was in dissbelief for a good 10min, But I guess the chances are just rarer in a 6bolt but not 100%, any motor can crank walk.

Anyways I'll suggest to someo of 4g63 eclipse buddies that when they go for the rebuilt, to dry a 6bolt swap and or 2.4L 4g64 block.

Good looking out.
 
i really like SpoolingSpyder's way. this is my only car and i use it as a daily driver. so i plan on just building up another engine on the side, which will probably be a 2.4 4G64. but the reason i asked about the ecu and wiring harness issues was because since they are different motors and i don't know much about the 4G64 i don't know if everything will be okay with swapping the other one in. i'd rather not mess with wiring and stuff like that. by the way what are the chances of a 4G64 crankwalking?

drivemusicnow- no, it's just a regular boost leak, one of my IC pipes is messed up. the reason i'm set on rebuilding the motor is because it has so many miles on it. i don't want to put money into it by modding it they have it walk on my ass.

hey SpoolingSpyder did you get my PM?
 
Really 7 bolts do not have CW as bad as many would lead you to believe. I made it to 152k on my 7bolt before I snapped a rod and trashed the block, even after that the crank is still in spec for thrust bearing play. The engine had 155 across the board for compression not a week before the rod ate the block.

I got a JDM 7bolt short block out of an Evo3 from a guy who decided on using a 6bolt instead. It took me all of 3 days to get the car back running and that was just me waiting on ARP head bolts, and a Mitsu HG, I could of been done in 8ish hours of time.
 
Nanan said:
Really 7 bolts do not have CW as bad as many would lead you to believe. I made it to 152k on my 7bolt before I snapped a rod and trashed the block, even after that the crank is still in spec for thrust bearing play. The engine had 155 across the board for compression not a week before the rod ate the block.

I got a JDM 7bolt short block out of an Evo3 from a guy who decided on using a 6bolt instead. It took me all of 3 days to get the car back running and that was just me waiting on ARP head bolts, and a Mitsu HG, I could of been done in 8ish hours of time.

that's another reason i was contemplating on rebuilding a 7 bolt. well ima get to the point i don't know shit about rebuilding an engine. i looked through the haynes repair manual and looked at the section on engine overhaul and looked at the part where it was talking about engine reassembly and it said start with the piston rings? well anyways when i get paid this thursday i'ma do a compression check on my 7 bolt to see what's up with it.

hey spoolingspyder ima resend my PM
 
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