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C1 Motorsports Evo Swap Time Attack Eclipse

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So they sleeve it for you from them or thats upto you?

I been reading up on it all and they offer many choices, so your cooling is going to be block and hesd seperate and not psssing through the head gasket.

Also have you looked into the SME heads? One of the best heads going and uses bucket type lifters for very high revving

Didn't know about SME heads, very cool stuff! When I was at WSRD we welded the deck on the head and ran separate coolant through the block and head on both the compound turbo talon and John's Evo. It worked fantastic and you never have to worry about the head lift forming a plasma torch.

Obviously with the bullet block you shouldn't have to worry about that kind of thing anyway, those things are incredible.

If I can't have these things ,then at least I can watch.

Yeah exactly my sentiments! Really looking forward to seeing this thing come together. To think a few years ago no one had done this swap. Now it seems to make a lot more sense to pick up a clean RS if I ever get the chance!
 
Didn't know about SME heads, very cool stuff! When I was at WSRD we welded the deck on the head and ran separate coolant through the block and head on both the compound turbo talon and John's Evo. It worked fantastic and you never have to worry about the head lift forming a plasma torch.

Obviously with the bullet block you shouldn't have to worry about that kind of thing anyway, those things are incredible.



Yeah exactly my sentiments! Really looking forward to seeing this thing come together. To think a few years ago no one had done this swap. Now it seems to make a lot more sense to pick up a clean RS if I ever get the chance!
So how does running seperste coolant passages avoid blow outs or as you say plasma torch it? I dont knoe this operstion but interested to know and how it works as i know we got 1 cap on the timing side so dont know where the water escapes after?
 
So how does running seperste coolant passages avoid blow outs or as you say plasma torch it? I dont knoe this operstion but interested to know and how it works as i know we got 1 cap on the timing side so dont know where the water escapes after?

When the head lifts, the combustion gases super heat the coolant and essentially form a plasma torch that blows a big chunk of aluminum out of the head. No coolant = no super heated gases = no blow torch effect.
 
Another thing helping the head and block stay together is 1/2" head studs, which come standard on the billet blocks. With the combustion chambers sealed by the fire sealing rings, the "head gasket" on the new build is really acting as just a "spacer". All of this stuff has been done before with the concrete filled drag blocks, but dry deck and still coolant cooled head and water jackets, well that I haven't heard of in the DSM world and allows us road race guys to benefit the same as the drag guys, yet keep our engines going longer than a few seconds :rocks:

The cars @RWD4G63 is talking about already doing this on stock blocks is news to me, but it wouldn't surprise me if that was kept secret (or at least not publicly bragged about) in year's past to have a leg up on the competition. There is a ton of stuff the fast race shops and fast race cars know about that is not common knowledge, but essential to their success or reliability. Maybe this dry deck stuff IS common knowledge and I just been living in a cave, but either way it going to be essential to keeping our car running reliably and I wanted to share.
 
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When the head lifts, the combustion gases super heat the coolant and essentially form a plasma torch that blows a big chunk of aluminum out of the head. No coolant = no super heated gases = no blow torch effect.
Arh thats cool, so my understanding is this, the head will frow from the timing side to the thermostat side and out,

The block side will be from the pump side to the last freeze plug on the trans side? And im assuming here that with an EWP you can run a Y into both ports and then back out and Y into 1 again or is it best to floe it through one first then the other like a dual pass design? (My thoughts on that would be that heat would remain from passing througb the first so not as ides the a Y split and cool both at the same cooler water
 
It's on it's way!

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The top image with the copper gasket and bronze rings is how Bullet does it. They are reuseable without having to resurface the block. The only time a Bullet machinist had heard of them failing was when a trigger plate came undone and the engine detonated terribly and caused rod damage. Otherwise they are holding 100psi in a plethora of vehicles. For ours, it's just another layer of security as we probably won't run even half that level of boost, but I figured if it makes things more reliable for the team, it was worth the simple steps to install it. TEM Performance will just need to machine retainer grooves into the top of the steel cylinder liners once we get the proper deck height set.

Check out the attached for their flyers on the system and install.
 

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Eh, it's not every day someone buys a billet engine or sequential transmission, and I certainly had a few questions through the purchase process. I am going over the currency exchange procedure, international shipping / expected delivery times, plus an overview of the product. Still trying to find my editing style. I don't like when people just straight upload a video from their cell phone, but I also don't like when they just edit emojis everywhere. Trying to be informative with my videos without sounding like a salesman is hard, but I am new to this so hopefully it gets better the more I do it.

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There are a million kids who watch those Youtube videos, but I'd be happy if a couple dozen DSMers watched mine :) I made that ^^ in about 30 seconds as a joke, and now I pasted it here and I am like.... this is seriously what 90% of the videos on the internet look like. It's so cringe LOL....

I didn't wrap up filming til Saturday and only had some of Sunday to edit. I am still working on it but hopefully I can have something up today or tomorrow. I had to spend some time on the car too, so time was precious.

I got the transmission out of the Spyder and decided to check out the damage. It was as expected, but not nearly as bad as I thought. It looks like a lot of the gears are fine, so I think a new input shaft and third gear would put this bad boy back into business. The problem however, is the case also damaged, and to run this AWD gearset in a FWD configuration took a bit of finesse to fit. I am pretty torn between throwing a FWD transmission in and figuring out new clutch and mounts OR just parting the car out. I am starting to get the parts in for the Evo swap and I am really conflicted on spending time (and money) just to do parade laps or car shows in the Spyder vs working on racing again. To be competitive with the Spyder requires a new dsm dogbox transmission and I just cant justify it knowing the life expectancy of the box vs what I have in the new car, so it's just a matter of pride I suppose, to retire the Spyder on my terms.

Pics of the aftermath of the November dyno failure:

Here is a photo of the custom mounts that realign the motor and transmission after lowering the car. This fixes the geometry of the axles when lowering the car.
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When I popped the end case off, I knew I was in for something spectacular.
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I am not an ASE certified mechanic, but I think I can spot what went wrong here....
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And the clutch housing breakage, as guessed, was some shrapnel stuck between the housing and the dif ring gear.
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Anyways, last thing I wanted to note was I while @greengoblin was out at COTA for Super Lap Battle grabbing pictures for our social media page, I stopped by a Dreams and Drivers cars and coffee event and found a DSM at their car show. I had no idea, but after speaking with the car owner there, I find out @Ludachris was standing right behind him. It was a quick in and out for me as I was on my way to meet someone, but a few messages exchanged between me and the DSM owner I had met there really were inspiring.

He told me that the AMB Eclipse was inspirational to him. He shared a touching story and really had me second guessing retiring the car. It was the first time I met a fan IRL who actually knew the car and it was a huge boost to know someone else cared and appreciated the time that goes into big projects like this. I do this hobby for myself and the team I've built, but hearing someone tell you the car motivated them in their own journey really inspires me too.

The legacy of the C1 car may leave the FWD chassis, but the spirit of the build will remain the same: to be the fastest DSM on the road course, and chase the record for fastest overall!
 
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I stopped by a Dreams and Drivers cars and coffee event and found a DSM at their car show. I had no idea, but after speaking with the car owner there, I find out @Ludachris was standing right behind him. It was a quick in and out for me as I was on my way to meet someone, but a few messages exchanged between me and the DSM owner I had met there really were inspiring.

He told me that the AMB Eclipse was inspirational to him. He shared a touching story and really had me second guessing retiring the car. It was the first time I met a fan IRL who actually knew the car and it was a huge boost to know someone else cared and appreciated the time that goes into big projects like this. I do this hobby for myself and the team I've built, but hearing some tell you that really inspires me too.
Still kicking myself for not politely breaking away from the conversation I was engaged in to go see if that was you. I knew I recongized you but couldn't find you afterwards. I volunteer to help D&D at most of the events here in the area - it's mostly cars and coffee with a few fundraising events throughout the year (mostly for cancer awareness charities). Would LOVE to have this car out there. We don't get too many DSMs coming through. The guy you were chatting with also volunteers.
 
Ok, I stepped down the cringe just a little, but it made me laugh and now it stuck:



Our billet block is here! Speaking with the rest of the C1 team, we will be writing an even more detailed article on more of the smaller details I glossed over in the video, but hopefully this gives you visual guys a nice overview of the billet block we just opened. Huge thanks to our engine sponsor Bullet Race Engineering for making this possible. There are so many benefits of moving to a block like this, even more than I originally knew, and I am still learning more about it. Talked to Andrew Brilliant before I posted the video and he was telling me random things he was trying to do to solve various problems with other customer's car's engines (in addition to the Eclipse) that were all resolved with a bullet block. I quote:

"It unlocked the potential in Under Suzuki's car"

There is only so much you can do as bandaids, and the reliability you gain in addition to all the other benefits really makes this the logical step for a build of this caliber. We are all super excited for this motor, even if I don't look like it in the video. I am pretty sure Rich @ TEM Performance is going to make me do the build in his shop because he wants to build it too. I'll be sure to bring the camera so you guys can see the next steps for getting this motor together.
 
Just a quick update:

The Spyder got moved out of the work shop and made space to film the transformation of the RS.

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I posted the shell up for sale, in case anyone is interested in building a competitive and winning capable NASA TT2/TT1 or GTA Limited racecar; I really think that is where it can reliably and continuously live happy. Here at C1 however, we are pushing for the top side of TTU and WTAC competitive, so that means moving forward with the billet power house and sequential transmission.

I keep getting questions on why the shell swap, and I thought I was pretty clear but I'll go over it once again.

Firstly, I don't WANT to shell swap, I like the uniqueness of the hard top Spyder, and I like the history of this chassis. After talking with AMB, he helped set me straight on getting over that though. He didn't build a chassis, he built a race car. If the build's future required a new chassis, that was just a part like any other that could be swapped for something better. Thinking of the shell like any other part, it made me more comfortable in moving forward as I have been going back and forth on how to best move forward.

I also wanted to do some car shows with the vehicle and parade laps before retiring the chassis, so I needed to source a transmission. I have been looking for weeks/months, but nothing came up. Then this virus thing hit and all the car shows and local car events were canceled "indefinitely". This put me in a weird situation where I didn't have the car ready for an event that I didn't know when exactly it would return. All the while, there are tons of parts I need off the vehicle to make the new chassis track ready. So in the end, I decided I need to start the future build now, specially as the parts for the new build were arriving.

Second, the sequential will not bolt in or work in the Spyder. The first hurdle is physically mounting the engine and transmission.

First, let me show you the mount locations on the Spyder. While we have modified mounts to adjust engine location, the chassis mounts are OEM location.

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This is the same for all Turbo (4g63t) 2g Eclipses, wether it be GST, Spyder, or GSX. Here is a photo of our GSX with the engine out of the way for a clearer look.

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Notice the straight frame rail on the driver side. This is the side the engine is on the turbo cars.

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Now notice, the passenger side transmission mount. It is a different style, mounted lower on the frame rail itself, but more importantly, that frame rail is curved. It allows space for the transmission to fit under the frame rail. This means, even if we changed the frame motor and transmission mounts, we would still need to clearance the frame rail for the transmission if we turned the engine and transmission around.

And let me remind everyone again also just in case it needs to be said again: the whole reason we are moving to a Evolution drivetrain has nothing to do with more power. There were no sequential options to hold our desired power levels for a DSM. The Evolution drive train has sequential options, so we needed to swap to it for. If you don't need a sequential transmission, you don't NEED do the Evo swap. If you have a 420a and want a turbo, you are still better off selling your 420a and buying a turbo DSM. A turbo DSM's 4g63 capability is just as powerful and strong as an Evo; Bullet Race Engineering even makes DSM style 4g63 blocks in 7 bolt and 6 bolt variants to bolt into your 4g63 chassis.

If you want to do the swap for reasons beyond the needs of sequential, say you just love your 420a too much to sell it, or you just want to be different, well we'll be able to help you there soon. I plan to make swap kits available with parts like tubular subframe, proper length and proper splined axles, motor mounts, wiring kits, and drive train components with the help of many DSMtuners supporting vendors. More on that at a later date.

Now, lets take a look at the evo motor.

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The 4G63 engine in the evo is mirrored to our type. The engine is on the passenger side, meaning the transmission and mount is on the driver side. This means it won't just bolt up in a DSM. Or, at least, not a turbo DSM.

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Blessed upon us by the great fortuitous 4g63 almighty gods, the motor mount on the passenger side is a viable location for the engine while keeping the axles straight for the front wheels. The driver side transmission mount wasn't so lucky, but by moving it a few inches forward, it will hold the transmission while the frame rail is curved to allow the transmission to slide under it, mirrored that of the turbo frame rail.

I should also mention: So why not just keep the Spyder shell and just do custom mounts, clearence the frame rail, or maybe tube frame a bit more of the frame rails? All doable with some fabrication time. HOWEVER, the purpose of this build is to fit into WTAC Pro and GTA Unlimited classes. Nearly all sanctioning bodies, including the two we are targeting, require unmodified frame rails:

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So the Third reason, is following the rules for our class. Considering all the changes we needed to do to complete the swap, plus the AWD portion of the swap from the GSX in the rear, it makes the most sense to take all the aero and suspension information we have gained and bolt everything we can from one chassis intothe new chassis.

There will still be plenty of fabricating and part collecting to do, and things that we learned from the first (few) chassis that we want to do different, but really the biggest hurdle was planning this swap out and getting sponsors on board. With the big stuff figured out, now it is just a matter of breaking a sweat, getting dirty, and doing the swap.

I am making a new video series for the whole process, so subscribe to the channel or check back on this build thread. The next evolution of the C1 Motorsports Eclipse is underway!

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Just a small update, X Shift Gearboxes is wrapping up the production of our new sequential gearbox!



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They also showing the different input shaft options. We are using a larger custom Input shaft which will require custom clutch disks but @twicks69 of TMZ Performance is already putting in work solving those small issues and has a set of clutch disk options to pick from. This will bump the torque rating of the gearbox from 1200NM to 1400NM!!!

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I also love the weight considerations they took on the barrel, milling holes to reduce weight. This helps the transmission do super fast 20-40ms flat shifts with an electronic paddle system. That ain't much slower than the response time of your typical TV or LCD screen! OMG

Can't wait to get this gearbox in hand; going to be so sweet knowing we should no longer have drive train issues!
 
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Out with the old!

Making space for an engine swap by first removing the stock 420a. Still a ton of work left to make this chassis usable, but we'll get there.

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Bit of an April Fools' Day joke, but I got the Bullet Race Engineering Billet 4g63 installed in the car earlier this month! :p :tease:

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Since then, I have spent some time finishing the prep work for the chassis. Mostly boring stuff if you've stripped a car before, but a necessary step on the way to completing the swap to this vehicle.

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There were no significant signs of rust anywhere when I bought the car, although it was extremely dirty. Not that I could complain much as the car was nearly free, but popping up the spare tire cover I found a nice surprise :ohdamn:.

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The drain from the moonroof/rear hatch was not in their exit holes, so the water was running just into the spare tire well. This is what I get for getting a car that was sitting for years. It won't affect anything in the end, as it's all getting cut out, but pretty unexpected.

I am saving the vehicle clean for a complete inside and out scrubbing. Really was just waiting for either my wife to say we can use paper towels again, or the C1 team to approve race car budget to order more cleaning supplies. New turbo.. or more paper towels, it was an expensive choice. In the end, I think the paper towel market will soon crash and we'll be able to afford to clean the car next update AND get a turbo LOL.

Hopefully we'll have some other fun stuff to share too :sneaky:

Keep an eye on our social media for more rapid info and other neat Time Attack cars.

https://www.facebook.com/CuriosichiMotorsports/
https://www.instagram.com/c1motorsports/
 
I will add to your cleaning funds if you want to sell some door parts off that car.... ;)

Sounds good, the carbon doors are getting swapped from the old car (or new ones in dry carbon? hmmmmmm) Either way, the RS doors will be replaced by composites.
 
While there is still plenty left to do prepping the chassis, we got another billet part in, this time from Dry Sump Solutions. They have provided us with a Dailey Engineering Dry Sump kit ready to be bolted to the billet block. We are working on a full unboxing and overview Youtube video, but I couldn't help but share a quick IG video of some of the B roll footage. It's absolutely gorgeous!



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While there is still plenty left to do prepping the chassis, we got another billet part in, this time from Dry Sump Solutions. They have provided us with a Dailey Engineering Dry Sump kit ready to be bolted to the billet block. We are working on a full unboxing and overview Youtube video, but I couldn't help but share a quick IG video of some of the B roll footage. It's absolutely gorgeous!



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Yeah totally not jelous at all of this!!!
 
It is my wedding anniversary today (May the 4th be with you!) so my weekend was dedicated to building a planter box, but I somehow still have news to share on the car build.

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C1 Motorsports is happy to announce our newest sponsor Fuel Injector Clinic who is supporting out build with EIGHT 1650cc High Impedance fuel injectors to power our Bullet Race Engineering billet aluminum 4g64.

Using the FIC Horsepower calculator, we chose these stainless alloy internal injectors for their fuel compatibility over the 2150s and for the fact it matches our horse power goal better. 8 of FIC 1650s will be able to support 1233 all wheel horse power, more than enough to cover our 1044 goals with some headroom to grow with the best in pulse width control at part throttle conditions.

The cherry on top is the injectors are individually serialized, flow matched and logged on an included data sheet so FIC and us both will always know the condition of the injectors individually and as a set should any concerns come up later. Maybe we get a clogged injector in the future, now when FIC cleans them, they will know for certain the injector is back to its original peak performance, and any deviation will signal another cleaning attempt is needed or injector degradation. Data is king with a race car, and other suppliers simply don't hold themselves to this high of a standard. That is why we wanted to work with FIC.
 
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