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Building Parallel curcuit help

Fehrion_sit

Proven Member
274
0
Oct 6, 2009
chalfont, Pennsylvania
im building this circuit to power both the power the gauges and power the LEDs that light up the gauge. my main questions are

1. i need the gauges to operate when the key is in the "Run" position. where can i find a suitable power source that can run all four gauges? i am running a turbo timer in the car too

2. what size(gauge) wire should i use on both circuits? Lights and Operating power?

3. what size fuse should i use on both circuits?

attached below is how i intend to build the circuit. tips and tricks are welcome and i will supply as much additional information as needed
 

Attachments

  • Sheilla wiring diagram.jpg
    Sheilla wiring diagram.jpg
    24.8 KB · Views: 54

PWR4HIM

Proven Member
81
0
Sep 22, 2010
triad, North_Carolina
So the gauges need two power sources. I mean usually they need a power in run and then a constant power. But are you saying they all need TWO power in run sources.

Do you have a test light? In the inside fuse box there are a couple unused spots in the middle of the fuse box, I know one of them is either power in run or constant power b/c I used it for my gauges that I just did about 6 weeks ago. The unused empty fuse spot is just perfect to use a male spade terminal and then you can put an inline fuse. Then also in the inside fuse box one of the far right side fuses, I believe 10 amp (sorry I'm out of town on business so I can go look at the car) is the other power I used. So one is constant and one is key on, use you test light to find out whether it is the unused spot or the right side fuse (i think second on the bottom row) that you need for power with key on. If it is the fused spot that you need go to a auto parts store and get a add a fuse kit from the electrical section for about 5 bucks, it will let you add a fuse in that spot and not effect the original circuit from that point.

Without knowing the resistance and all of the gauges the exact amperage you need can't be figured out. But led gauges should draw VERY little current. I would say a 5 amp fuse is certainly all you will need, and nothing bigger than 14 gauge wire if that. The prosport gauges I have came with like 26 gauge wire or something so if that gives you an idea on how little amps they draw.
 

PWR4HIM

Proven Member
81
0
Sep 22, 2010
triad, North_Carolina
I think I said it. 14ga should be all you need. Probably can get away with 16ga even. But with as many parallel branches I would prob. use 14
 

gearhead07

Proven Member
108
0
Jan 4, 2011
Auburn, Pennsylvania
1. first of all ### are all the lines and colors meaning? (cause im not understanting wats going on here)

I know how to do what u are thinking of but im lost in ### you think with your picture.

As said befor 5amp fuse should be plents and 18ga is prob MORE than good. An LED barley draws any amps at all cause its not realy a bulb.
 

Fehrion_sit

Proven Member
274
0
Oct 6, 2009
chalfont, Pennsylvania
red is power in, blue is ground, the black is the main line. the circuit on the left, is the functional power for the gauges, the one on the right is the power circuit of the lighting, in this case the LED draw. i want them in parallel so that if one has a problem, i will not lose all the gauges behind the problem in the circuit.
 

gearhead07

Proven Member
108
0
Jan 4, 2011
Auburn, Pennsylvania
ok im not sure exacly ### wires are for ### but the way im taking it its wrong. give me a couple mins while i draw something up.

what do u mean main power for the gauge?


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19Eclipse90

DSM Wiseman
4,984
779
Sep 29, 2003
OKC, Oklahoma
I'm not much of an electrical guy at all and if I'm wrong, perhaps someone can explain it to me. From what you have there in your diagram, none of your instruments will receive any power. You can't have the power wires and ground wires being sourced from the same bit of harness. All the current will flow directly to the ground for the path of least resistance. Wouldn't it need to look something like this? Red wires are positives, blue wires are negatives.
 

Attachments

  • CircuitDiagram.JPG
    CircuitDiagram.JPG
    23.9 KB · Views: 67

gearhead07

Proven Member
108
0
Jan 4, 2011
Auburn, Pennsylvania
I'm not much of an electrical guy at all and if I'm wrong, perhaps someone can explain it to me. From what you have there in your diagram, none of your instruments will receive any power. You can't have the power wires and ground wires being sourced from the same bit of harness. All the current will flow directly to the ground for the path of least resistance. Wouldn't it need to look something like this? Red wires are positives, blue wires are negatives.




looks good to me
 

gearhead07

Proven Member
108
0
Jan 4, 2011
Auburn, Pennsylvania
oh and the other thing. An LED is diode and most of them u will need a resistor do dull down the voltage. because an LED cant handle 14v u are giving it. Most of them are designed to only use like 5v. But i do think they make ones that can handle hi volts (they have a resistor built in), i think but am not %100 sure.
 
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