The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

2G Build Plan

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Concepts

Proven Member
35
2
Aug 20, 2022
Indiana
I wish to own a 2G Eclipse in the future, and I have done some research on these forums, and I'm wondering if this is a good build plan for around high 300s to low 400s in horsepower. Am I going overboard? Am I not doing enough? Thanks in advance.

- STM Intake
- S90 Throttle Body

- 16G Turbo
- STM FMIC
- GReddy FV2 BOV
- GrimmSpeed Manual Boost Controller

- Walbro 255Lph Fuel Pump
- FIC 650cc Fuel Injectors
- STM Fuel Pressure Regulator

- Competition Clutch Stage 3
- Competition Clutch Flywheel

- Mishimoto X-Line Radiator

- STM Cat-Back Exhaust
- STM High Flow Cat
- STM O2 Housing
- STM Downpipe
- FP Cast Race Manifold (STM Porting)

- AEM X-Series Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor

- AEM EMS Series 2
 
I didn't know the ECMLink was capable of doing all of that, sounds like I should learn more about it's features

I'm going to probably go with internal gating and just get a normal STM O2 Housing.

Since I would be controlling boost with ECMLink, should I get a boost gauge? Should I have easy access to adjusting boost in the cabin?


You're referring to the first post I made on here. This was my original build plan and the one that you replied to before is the updated and almost complete one.

You are, however, making mention that a ported manifold would be something to consider with the turbo, do you think I should commit to getting a manifold to match the other pieces of my exhaust?

Thank you for all of the info, greatly appreciated.
What I’m telling you is an FP manifold and $400 tubular o2 housing are going to hurt more than help over the ported stock stuff when using a 16g.
 
What I’m telling you is an FP manifold and $400 tubular o2 housing are going to hurt more than help over the ported stock stuff when using a 16g.
I'm not going to be using a 16g, you're referring to the original post on this thread. The comment that you initially replied to is the new build plan I have created. I made it confusing, I'm sorry. I should have made a new post.
 
I'm not going to be using a 16g, you're referring to the original post on this thread. The comment that you initially replied to is the new build plan I have created. I made it confusing, I'm sorry. I should have made a new post.
Even with a 68hta it would be the more efficient route, the FP manifold is geared towards larger frame bolt on turbos with a td06 turbine wheel and larger, anything smaller it’ll be costing spool for no reason.
 
Even with a 68hta it would be the more efficient route, the FP manifold is geared towards larger frame bolt on turbos with a td06 turbine wheel and larger, anything smaller it’ll be costing spool for no reason.
Okay, I wasn't planning on getting a manifold, however, do you think I should port the 2G manifold?

Also, should I just port the 2G o2 housing instead of an STM one, since I wouldn't need the custom mount for the wastegate?

Is there a point in getting a 3" downpipe if I don't get a larger diameter manifold/o2 housing?
 
I'm not going to be using a 16g, you're referring to the original post on this thread. The comment that you initially replied to is the new build plan I have created. I made it confusing, I'm sorry. I should have made a new post.

You didn't make it confusing. What's confusing sometimes is that post #1 shows up always at the top of every page. That's confusing, and that is prob what happened. That is a recent "feature" and I don't especially like it. But maybe for people doing this on a cell phone it might be easier for them to have that feature. On a desktop with a big screen it is easy to jump around looking at multiple pages. Maybe not so much with a cell phone.

Is there a point in getting a 3" downpipe if I don't get a larger diameter manifold/o2 housing?

Yes for sure, at least that is what I know from 1G experience and I think the 2G is similar in that way. Putting on a bigger downpipe plus a 3" exhaust the rest of the way back has always been pretty much the #1 first thing to do for more power on these cars. Even with the stock exhaust manifold and stock O2 housing, the 3" downpipe and exhaust system makes a big difference. Also replacing the cat with an open pipe (test pipe it's usually called) is part of that. A high flow cat might be almost as good as a test pipe. That is something I've never really looked into because in my state we never had "visual inspections" for emissions. We only had to pass an emission tail pipe test. And I found out my car would pass without the cat on it! Although that was my car before 2015, as you see it in my other (older) profile.
And now that these cars are so old there is no test requirement at all in most states.
 
You didn't make it confusing. What's confusing sometimes is that post #1 shows up always at the top of every page. That's confusing, and that is prob what happened. That is a recent "feature" and I don't especially like it. But maybe for people doing this on a cell phone it might be easier for them to have that feature. On a desktop with a big screen it is easy to jump around looking at multiple pages. Maybe not so much with a cell phone.



Yes for sure, at least that is what I know from 1G experience and I think the 2G is similar in that way. Putting on a bigger downpipe plus a 3" exhaust the rest of the way back has always been pretty much the #1 first thing to do for more power on these cars. Even with the stock exhaust manifold and stock O2 housing, the 3" downpipe and exhaust system makes a big difference. Also replacing the cat with an open pipe (test pipe it's usually called) is part of that. A high flow cat might be almost as good as a test pipe. That is something I've never really looked into because in my state we never had "visual inspections" for emissions. We only had to pass an emission tail pipe test. And I found out my car would pass without the cat on it! Although that was my car before 2015, as you see it in my other (older) profile.
And now that these cars are so old there is no test requirement at all in most states.
Alright. If I do get an Eclipse, it'll be legal in my area to get rid of the cat by the time I own it, so I'll do that instead of paying the extra money for a high flow.
 
I didn't know the ECMLink was capable of doing all of that, sounds like I should learn more about it's features

I'm going to probably go with internal gating and just get a normal STM O2 Housing.

Since I would be controlling boost with ECMLink, should I get a boost gauge? Should I have easy access to adjusting boost in the cabin?


You're referring to the first post I made on here. This was my original build plan and the one that you replied to before is the updated and almost complete one.

You are, however, making mention that a ported manifold would be something to consider with the turbo, do you think I should commit to getting a manifold to match the other pieces of my exhaust?

Thank you for all of the info, greatly appreciated.
Very wise choice on ecmlink v3 instead of aem series 2. I had a series 2 I put in my car without even driving on it. Long story short after my omni map sensor wouldn't cooperate I sold it for about 600 less almost 2 years later.
 
Since I would be controlling boost with ECMLink, should I get a boost gauge?

Yeah I would. Most people would I'm sure. The nicer ones will have a feature that records the maximum boost you hit starting from whenever you started the engine, and shows you the max number later when you push a button to recall it.


Should I have easy access to adjusting boost in the cabin?

Well, at first I wanted that. But now that I have that, I don't even try to use that feature while I'm out on the road driving. I could, but it's pretty fiddley fishing through the sequential menu in my boost controller with the 2 buttons that are on it.
So I end up adjusting it at home anyway. And the only reason I adjust it is for when I change the ethanol % in my fuel mix. If you are going to always run just premium pump gas, you won't be doing that.
Your tuner would tell you what boost (and solenoid duty cycle) he used when arriving at the final tune.

If you are trying to tune it yourself, you'll have the laptop in the car with you anyway, logging. So it would be easy to go into the boost control menu to fiddle with it.
If you did want easy access to adjusting the boost in the cabin without the laptop there, you'd need to use a separate boost controller rather than the one in ecmlink. If you did decide to buy a separate boost controller, be sure to download the manual for it, read it, and understand it before you buy it. The sequential fish-through that I have on my separate boost controller is kind of annoying. And the boost controller in DSMlink has more useful features (like boost by gear) than my separate controller has. I guess I would say, if you do get a separate boost controller, don't get the same one I have 🤣 (it's listed in my specs and photos).
 
Yeah I would. Most people would I'm sure. The nicer ones will have a feature that records the maximum boost you hit starting from whenever you started the engine, and shows you the max number later when you push a button to recall it.




Well, at first I wanted that. But now that I have that, I don't even try to use that feature while I'm out on the road driving. I could, but it's pretty fiddley fishing through the sequential menu in my boost controller with the 2 buttons that are on it.
So I end up adjusting it at home anyway. And the only reason I adjust it is for when I change the ethanol % in my fuel mix. If you are going to always run just premium pump gas, you won't be doing that.
Your tuner would tell you what boost (and solenoid duty cycle) he used when arriving at the final tune.

If you are trying to tune it yourself, you'll have the laptop in the car with you anyway, logging. So it would be easy to go into the boost control menu to fiddle with it.
If you did want easy access to adjusting the boost in the cabin without the laptop there, you'd need to use a separate boost controller rather than the one in ecmlink. If you did decide to buy a separate boost controller, be sure to download the manual for it, read it, and understand it before you buy it. The sequential fish-through that I have on my separate boost controller is kind of annoying. And the boost controller in DSMlink has more useful features (like boost by gear) than my separate controller has. I guess I would say, if you do get a separate boost controller, don't get the same one I have 🤣 (it's listed in my specs and photos).
Thank you for the information. I'm definitely going to get a tuner, because I'll end up destroying something if I try to do it myself. I'll look into a more basic boost gauge instead of the AEM controller gauge.

Your build is awesome btw
 
Last edited:
I had some confusion trying to figure out if the item STM 2G 3" Test Pipe is actually available because they don't have a web page for it. They only show it as part of the Turbo-Back exhaust system, and they refer to it in a couple other places.

So I emailed them about it last night.
This morning already they emailed me back saying this:

Hey Gary!

That component is only available with the full kit mentioned.
We no longer manufacture the test pipes due to recent changes to laws and regulation so the ones that are left have to stay with the kits we have made unfortunately.

I really wish we could help more with this!

-Team STM



The "full kit", they mean the STM 2G AWD DSM Stainless Turbo-Back Exhaust.



I'm definitely going to get a tuner, because I'll end up destroying something if I try to do it myself.

Yeah, that's what I did too. I mean I got a tuner, and they built it as well so they knew exactly what to expect when they were tuning it. It met expectations and it's been fine ever since. So I'm really happy with it and I just want it to last like forever. 😂
 
I had some confusion trying to figure out if the item STM 2G 3" Test Pipe is actually available because they don't have a web page for it. They only show it as part of the Turbo-Back exhaust system, and they refer to it in a couple other places.

So I emailed them about it last night.
This morning already they emailed me back saying this:

Hey Gary!

That component is only available with the full kit mentioned.
We no longer manufacture the test pipes due to recent changes to laws and regulation so the ones that are left have to stay with the kits we have made unfortunately.

I really wish we could help more with this!

-Team STM



The "full kit", they mean the STM 2G AWD DSM Stainless Turbo-Back Exhaust.





Yeah, that's what I did too. I mean I got a tuner, and they built it as well so they knew exactly what to expect when they were tuning it. It met expectations and it's been fine ever since. So I'm really happy with it and I just want it to last like forever. 😂
Dude! I was just searching for their page for the test pipe, because I knew they used to have it! Thank you for reaching out to them, and it's good to know they don't have it anymore. I guess they just have the O2 housing, downpipe, and catback now? If so, I can just weld on a piece of stainless and call it a day haha. I hope if I get an Eclipse it lasts until I'm ready to let her go or until I manage to crash it somehow.
 
Well they still have the test pipes, but when they run out they aren't going to make anymore. In the mean time they are only making them available as part of the turbo-back system.

What I would do, I would just buy the whole turbo back system. That way you'd get the O2, downpipe, catback, and the test pipe.
I added up the prices for O2, downpipe, and catback bought separately and guess what, that costs more than if you buy the whole system with a test pipe.

O2 + downpipe + catback = $1,527
Entire turbo back system with recirc O2 and test pipe = $1,450

https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-2g-awd-dsm-stainless-steel-turbo-back-exhaust?variant=43952480329

If they have run out of test pipes by the time you do this, you could still buy the O2, downpipe, and catback, as separate items, and have somebody weld up a test pipe for you.

The test pipe is by far easier to make than any other part in the system. It is just straight 3" pipe with a proper flange on each end. No bending. Getting the flanges put on exactly right is the hardest part, but that is something that can be done by a local muffler shop.

Better though, and cheaper, if you can buy the whole thing made properly, stainless steel and all, from STM.

I noticed they also sell the HKS catback systems for 2G. I haven't followed these because for 1G these systems are only 2.5" which I was never interested in. But for 2G they are 3" systems. I suppose with these you could use the STM downpipe and O2 but you would probably need to make a custom test pipe to fit.
There might be a serious problem with the HKS catback system. It looks to me like the forward section of it, forward of the resonator, is only 2.5" pipe. They might have done that to make it fit up to the stock cat. Yuk. That would have to be cut off. It has the hangers on that section too. Oh man. Then if that forward section is 2.5" the resonator right behind it might be 2.5" inside as well. What a mess. Yuk+++.
Here's a link that shows the STM systems and the three HKS systems listed out so it's easy to go look at them from here:
https://stmtuned.com/search?q=2g+DSM+stainless+exhaust

For the record, here's a shot of the STM turbo-back system web page. This is the only place on their web site where they show a pic of the test pipe.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
For the record the hks hi power cat back is 3 inches however it necks down at the beginning of the cat back to 2.5 to be able to meet the factory exhaust system.

So not a true 3 inches like others offer. I have a hks and a srs cat back and the srs is much nicer in my opinion and was bought for half the price of the hks. The srs is also a true 3 inch cat back and comes with a reducer from 2.5 to 3 if your running the factory exhaust up front.

-Daniel
 
For the record the hks hi power cat back is 3 inches however it necks down at the beginning of the cat back to 2.5 to be able to meet the factory exhaust system.

So not a true 3 inches like others offer. I have a hks and a srs cat back and the srs is much nicer in my opinion and was bought for half the price of the hks. The srs is also a true 3 inch cat back and comes with a reducer from 2.5 to 3 if your running the factory exhaust up front.

-Daniel

Yeah I noticed that from the pics and edited my post. For our purposes that is a really poor thing HKS did. But I suppose it is for the customers and markets where people leave their engines basically stock, and just want cool style out the back and more sound.
 
Well they still have the test pipes, but when they run out they aren't going to make anymore. In the mean time they are only making them available as part of the turbo-back system.

What I would do, I would just buy the whole turbo back system. That way you'd get the O2, downpipe, catback, and the test pipe.
I added up the prices for O2, downpipe, and catback bought separately and guess what, that costs more than if you buy the whole system with a test pipe.

O2 + downpipe + catback = $1,527
Entire turbo back system with recirc O2 and test pipe = $1,450

https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-2g-awd-dsm-stainless-steel-turbo-back-exhaust?variant=43952480329

If they have run out of test pipes by the time you do this, you could still buy the O2, downpipe, and catback, as separate items, and have somebody weld up a test pipe for you.

The test pipe is by far easier to make than any other part in the system. It is just straight 3" pipe with a proper flange on each end. No bending. Getting the flanges put on exactly right is the hardest part, but that is something that can be done by a local muffler shop.

Better though, and cheaper, if you can buy the whole thing made properly, stainless steel and all, from STM.

I noticed they also sell the HKS catback systems for 2G. I haven't followed these because for 1G these systems are only 2.5" which I was never interested in. But for 2G they are 3" systems. I suppose with these you could use the STM downpipe and O2 but you would probably need to make a custom test pipe to fit.
There might be a serious problem with the HKS catback system. It looks to me like the forward section of it, forward of the resonator, is only 2.5" pipe. They might have done that to make it fit up to the stock cat. Yuk. That would have to be cut off. It has the hangers on that section too. Oh man. Then if that forward section is 2.5" the resonator right behind it might be 2.5" inside as well. What a mess. Yuk+++.
Here's a link that shows the STM systems and the three HKS systems listed out so it's easy to go look at them from here:
https://stmtuned.com/search?q=2g+DSM+stainless+exhaust
I'll be buying and building my Eclipse atleast 2-3 years from now, so I probably won't be able to get my hands on an STM test pipe which is a shame. I will probably still buy the 3 pieces and get a stainless pipe to recreate it, though, because I've seen a lot of videos of the exhaust revving and doing pulls, and it's the one of the better sounding ones that are still produced.
 
I'll be buying and building my Eclipse atleast 2-3 years from now, so I probably won't be able to get my hands on an STM test pipe which is a shame. I will probably still buy the 3 pieces and get a stainless pipe to recreate it, though, because I've seen a lot of videos of the exhaust revving and doing pulls, and it's the one of the better sounding ones that are still produced.

Yeah that's how it goes. I had to have a custom test pipe made for mine, because my Megan system, which was supposed to be a complete exhaust system for 1g AWD, didn't fit. 🤣
The simplest way we had to correct for it was to build a custom test pipe.
That was back in 2008.
 
You didn't make it confusing. What's confusing sometimes is that post #1 shows up always at the top of every page. That's confusing, and that is prob what happened. That is a recent "feature" and I don't especially like it. But maybe for people doing this on a cell phone it might be easier for them to have that feature. On a desktop with a big screen it is easy to jump around looking at multiple pages. Maybe not so much with a cell phone.



Yes for sure, at least that is what I know from 1G experience and I think the 2G is similar in that way. Putting on a bigger downpipe plus a 3" exhaust the rest of the way back has always been pretty much the #1 first thing to do for more power on these cars. Even with the stock exhaust manifold and stock O2 housing, the 3" downpipe and exhaust system makes a big difference. Also replacing the cat with an open pipe (test pipe it's usually called) is part of that. A high flow cat might be almost as good as a test pipe. That is something I've never really looked into because in my state we never had "visual inspections" for emissions. We only had to pass an emission tail pipe test. And I found out my car would pass without the cat on it! Although that was my car before 2015, as you see it in my other (older) profile.
And now that these cars are so old there is no test requirement at all in most states.
No im with you on the new feature being on top! Its annoying and confuses me as im skipping pages. Most of the original post is always void after a few posts anyway unless its a tech post. Why do i need to be reminded of a question looking through all the posts in the thread for?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top