Budget Build Questions

[97gst_spyder]

I have a 97 GST Spyder 5-spd.

I know I need a clutch, trans, and timing belt.

The trans whines in 1st and 2nd, no matter if accel or decel.

The engine itself has 125k on it right now. I did a compression test about 6 months ago, all 190, no smoke, no coolant burn off.

I have about $2500-4000 to spend. Really looking at 3k..I want a nice TV too...

I'm looking for more power maybe 300whp max.

My plans were the following.

Engine:
-OEM headgasket (multi-layer)
-ARP headstuds

Drivetrain:
-99 GST trans $300 (59k)
-ACT 2100 or some type of spec clutch (idk what spec to get)
-Fidanza flywheel
-Ebay B&M ss
-Shifter washers

Turbo/Intake/Exhaust System:
-E16G
-Ebay O2 housing dump
-FP or evo 3 exhaust mani
-Dejon j-pipe (to stock t-25 licp)
-Supra smic
-Snorkel mod
-ebay 3in dp and 3in catback

Suspension:
-Tokico spring/strut (adj version)
-Prothane total kit
-3g rear conversion
-new tie rods (inner and outer)

Brakes:
-SS Lines
I installed new pads and rotors.

Fuel/Tuning:
-DSMLink v3 (can I use a 1g eprom or only a 95 eprom?)
-550cc or 650cc injectors.
-STM return kit with fpr (cheapest way to do it that I can find)
-FP 255lph fuel pump kit.


Does this look like I covered everything?
LMK, if I should look at other items or processes!!

 

[njdaewoo]

You have a lot of items but the cash flow doesn't match. I would go with a nice 3in exhaust from the turbo back ( I have the Thermal R&D), AEM wideband, fuel system upgrade, MBC and a decent BOV. The dough your gonna spend on the trans, clutch and flywheel is going to eat up quite a bit of your money.

Also when it comes to a junkyard or used tranny you never know what your getting. These are high performance cars and most people beat the crap out of them (I know I do from time to time) So a missed gear here and a grind there will take its toll on the trans. I would suggest you get your trans rebuilt or just buy a rebuilt trans. I would also buy the LSD ( limited slip differential) to throw in there while everythings apart, about $2-300. Once you put the rebuilt trans in you will know what you have! The new limited slip will put all the power to the ground. Its really whack to spend all that money on go-fast parts and have one wheel pulling you along.

 

[97gst_spyder]

I can go up to $4k.

I have Greddy IC pipes, Type-S bov, Hallman ES MBC, fuel pump re-wire, Front and rear Prothanes, SS Clutch line and rebuilt clutch master and slave cyl.

 

[Zack Huffman]

Good advice njdaewoo.

I did a compression test about 6 months ago, all 190, no smoke, no coolant burn off.

Engine:
-OEM headgasket (multi-layer)
-ARP headstuds

You really don't need to change your headgasket and suffer added machining costs. You aren't going to lift the head on stock bolts at 300fwhp, so forget the ARPs too for now. Compression of 190 on all 4 is excellent, no need for improvement there.

Drivetrain:
-99 GST trans $300 (59k)
-ACT 2100 or some type of spec clutch (idk what spec to get)
-Fidanza flywheel
-Ebay B&M ss
-Shifter washers

This all sounds good.
Personally, I'd go with the ACT2100 with a sprung hub 6 puck disk.

Turbo/Intake/Exhaust System:
-E16G
-Ebay O2 housing dump
-FP or evo 3 exhaust mani
-Dejon j-pipe (to stock t-25 licp)
-Supra smic
-Snorkel mod
-ebay 3in dp and 3in catback

The exhaust mani isn't a necessity yet, your stock 2G is fine as long as it isn't cracked. Also, if you're serious about only wanting 300fwhp, a 14b will save some cash and still reach that mark.

Suspension:
-Tokico spring/strut (adj version)
-Prothane total kit
-3g rear conversion
-new tie rods (inner and outer)

I'd skip the 3G rear arm conversion for now. The stock 2G stamped pieces aren't terrible unless you're going to compete on a course with this car. The Tokicos and Prothanes will stiffen things up nicely.

Fuel/Tuning:
-DSMLink v3 (can I use a 1g eprom or only a 95 eprom?)
-550cc or 650cc injectors.
-STM return kit with fpr (cheapest way to do it that I can find)
-FP 255lph fuel pump kit.

I'd go with an SAFC2, WBO2, EvoScan logger, 190lph and Evo 560's (or maybe 650's). It's still enough to support almost 400whp, is easier for someone still learning to tune and usually with a 190lph you don't have stock FPR overrun.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Thanks for the break down!!

Any more input would be awesome!!

Added brake list!

 

[97gst_spyder]

I got the following already!

-AEM Wideband
-SAFC 2
-3in catback
-3in dp
-Short Shifter
-Prothane Total Kit

I'm still looking for a MAFT + gm maf.. Hard to find an used one.

Will a 1g maft work on a 2g?

 

[97gst_spyder]

Ok, I have some questions now that I have all the parts...

I got the following:

-E316G
-Ebay 3in catback (installed)
-Ebay 2.5in to 3in dp (installed)
-Ebay re-circulated o2 housing (installed)
-SAFC 2 (not installed)
-MAFT for a 1g, that needs to be hardwired into the harness
-AEM Wideband (sensor installed, as is the gauge, no wiring)
-Evo 8 560cc injectors (not installed)
-Ebay B&M Short Shifter (installed)
-Prothane total kit (installed)
-Tokico Advanced Suspension kit (ready to bolt in)
-Water Pump (not installed)
-Full Timing kit (not installed)
-I have new turbo oil lines from head (not installed)
-New OEM gaskets (tb, injector seals, etc)

Questions

- What do I use to block off the OFH turbo feed hole, since I'm using the head now?
- What coolant pipe goes where on the turbo. IE- the coolant line on the engine side of the turbo connects to what coolant pipe on the car? (I'm an idiot)
- Does anyone know how to wire the MAFT to the harness? I've researched it for the last couple of days and I am extremly confused and worried to fry something if I wire it wrong.


Any Input would be amazing!!

Thanks,
Chris

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

In the name of crankwalk, plug your oil squirters. The oil squirters are fed by main bearings, and with that many miles you want your bearings to get all the oil they can get.

 

[Zack Huffman]

Use a correct threaded bolt to block off the OFH.

The coolant is fed from the water pipe to the radiator side of the turbo and returns from the block side to the water neck / T-stat housing (or vice versa, IMO plumbing is easier the way I just described). Here's a decent photo I found in Maranello993's gallery.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Check out member gabytech's gallery for some good AN line plumbing pictures.

DOWNLOAD USER MANUALS HERE! - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support


Check out the first post of the Evo ECU thread for a pinout diagram of a 2G ECU.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Thanks Delta!

 

[97gst_spyder]

Thanks for the input.

Quick question on the maft. I'm hardwiring it into my car. I have basically everything hooked up. But there are 2 extra wires in the 2g maf harness, the 4th pin, MPI Control Relay, and 7th pin, Volume air flow sensor reset signal.

Where do I wire them too? Also, the purple wire or AUX wire on the MAFT, where does that go?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[97gst_spyder]

Ok, the car is soon to be back on the road!

I got the following:

Drivetrain:

ACT 2100 with 6-puck un-sprung
OEM clutch fork
OEM Throw out bearing w/clip
OEM Fulcrum ball
B&M style ss

Suspension:

STM rear camber kit
Prothane total kit
SS Brake lines
Tokico advanced suspension kit

Engine:

OEM injector seals, upper and lower.
OEM timing belt and pulleys/tensioner
Water pump
A ton of OEM gaskets and o-rings.
Evo fuel pump
SAFC II
MAFT = I don't think I'm going to use
AEM Uego wideband
3g lifters
Evo 560cc injectors

Turbo/Exhaust

Full 3in turboback exhaust with a tubular O2 housing (recir)
BE316G (fully rebuilt)
Dejon T-25 style j-pipe.
Full Greddy pipes with type-s
Supra side mount IC, If the guy ever ships it...



Now the biggest thing is the MAF. I want to use a MAFT for the venting of the bov but thats it. From what I've read its not the greatest due to the temp and something else is fixed, not reading actual temp.

With that said, Is there some sensor that I can add to the MAFT so it does tell the ecu actual temp?
or
Is an evo 8 maf a better option?

I just want the car to be easy to tune and reliable to drive in the ever changing Florida weather...

 

[Zack Huffman]

I recommend the Evo 8 MAF.

The MAFT and GM MAF in blow through is a compromise mod IMO. The GM MAF sensor is not meant to be used in blow through. Even though it usually works acceptably as such, it is much more accurate when used in draw through like the stock MAF. In blow through it will be more difficult to tune. It does however offer less airflow restriction through the sensor which can really help the compressor. IMO, the only reason people really like the MAFT is so they can hear the high pitched flutter of the ricer mating call created by venting their BOV. It draws more attention I guess, wanted or not.

The Evo MAF on the other hand is able to read higher airflow than the stock 2G MAF and will be much easier to tune since it offers the same type of ECU inputs. Since you are using the Evo 560s, the Evo MAF is a real no-brainer choice.

project-ntr-no-tuning-required

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/325191-evo-3g-mas-2g.html

Running 560 cc/min injectors on gas with a stock 2G ECU and an EVO8/3G MAF would be a nearly perfect match. Based on ECU data from both the EVO8 and 2G, I'd guess you'll run about 5% lean at idle (which will be easily compensated for with fuel trims) and about 4% rich at WOT. Cruise should be nearly dead on.

 

[97gst_spyder]

So does anyone know how to wire a Evo 8 maf to a 2g without buying the harness? I seached and came up with nothing.

 

[Zack Huffman]

The pinouts are exactly the same as the 2G MAF, but you will still need the harness connector to plug into the Evo MAF since the connectors are different. You can either hardwire a harness plug from a car that uses the #482 MAF, or use the jumper from DSMchips.com.

 

[Wicked_Sick]

To answer one of your questions, you cannot use a 1g ecu in a 2g for dsmlink.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Ok, so I got a pigtail from 3g/evo to 2g adapter, and a supra smic. I also painted all the coolant pips, im, and ic piping with VHT flameproof flat black paint (easier to see oil or other liquids leaking). The car should be running soon!