Broken Exhaust Stud/Screw Removal [Merged 8-8] bolt fastener threads

[RoasT BeeF]

I have two bolts that are broken off inside the head that bolt the exhaust manifold up. Any ideas for getting them out without messing up the threads? I was going to try drilling them out but I cant even get my drill in there. I am also going to need to take the power steering pump off to get to one of them. Anybody done any of this?

Tech Article:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-broken-exhaust-stud-removal.html#post1489888

 

[teamo2t]

Not to hijack the post but I had this same problem that has made my life miserable. Bottom line is I tried to use an extractor which broke in the bolt and now a machine shop said the only option is to drill out the bolt and hole and put in new threads. I know I am asking to get beat down, but can I get away with no bolt in this one hole?

 

[schoffs4]

Just use a reverse bit smaller than the treaded part witch i'm shure its 6mm. Take one good pan bolt out and match a smaller drill bit. Take care to drill perfect center to make shure a bad situation worse. Most of the time when you start drilling the stud will screw out after a bit

 

[DSSMER1]

i have a broken turbo coolant return bolt or the bolt in which the coolant from the turbo drains back into the block the head completely came off and its in their pretty good any suggestions ????/

 

[VTEC_THIS]

Go to a hardware store and pick up an "easy out, drill out" or similar. Like this -

Craftsman 4 pc. Drill-Out Power Extractor - Model 450SR at Sears.com

 

[crimsondragon]

When using the "easy-out" drill into the bolt with a #21 drill bit down to about 5/16th's. Then spray a generous amount of PB blaster on the bolt. Let it soak for about 10 minutes then try it. Do not force it. If you break the "easy-out" you'll be even more screwed.

 

[99gst_racer]

Well, actually, if it's the bolt in the block for coolant return, then he won't need to even drill it out. It's a banjo bolt, so it's already a hallow-center bolt.

OP: Pick up an extractor set like in the link in post #2. That, along with a can of penetrating lubricant, should do the trick.

 

[DSSMER1]

thanks i'll give it a try

 

[Ben_Davis]

ok i have 2 questions. first is. if i pull out the head on my motor can i later yank out my block? or do i need to have it all together to do that/. next question i broke one of the bolts on my head that holds the exhaust manifold on how can i get it out?
sorry for newb questions

 

[cs82685]

ok i have 2 questions. first is. if i pull out the head on my motor can i later yank out my block? or do i need to have it all together to do that/.

Yes

i broke one of the bolts on my head that holds the exhaust manifold on how can i get it out?
sorry for newb questions

Drill it out and retap the hole

 

[Jeff99GS]

Thats all you can do is drill it. I would start with and 1/8" drill bit then use a 3/16" bit fallowed by a 1/4" bit. Its WAY easier than trying to start with the 1/4" first.
Usually by the time you get to the 1/4" bit the thin layer of bolt that is left in the threads will come out. Then you can just run a TAP in there to clean up the threads!

I think its a 8 x 1.25 tap

 

[jimmybosox]

I noticed awhile ago that one of the exhaust manifold studs was missing the nut and lockwasher. I went to put a new nut and lock washer on it this weekend and the stud broke off. I hardly turned the nut at all. Stud must have been ready to break.

Judging by the piece of the stud that I have, it appears to have broken off inside the head with nothing left ouitside the head to grab onto.

Anyway, I just want to know how important it is to get that fixed. I was driving around for quite awhile with no nut/washer, so I'm guessing it's not urgent. Is there a chance of some kind of damage if I don't fix this? As I stand in front of the car and look into the engine bay it's the far left stud on the top.

After reading a few threads here it appears likely that more studs will break off if I try to remove the exhaust manifold. I've never used an extractor or an EZ out and I've never tapped or helicoiled anything, so I'd likely take it to a shop if this is something that needs to be addressed.

On a side note, when I removed my heat shield I found that 3 of the four bolts going down through the top of the exhaust manifold were loose. One was a good 1" up and was rattling against the heat shield. I had thought the rattling was some part of my 3" exhaust hitting the underside of the car. Tightened those down and now the exhaust leak I had been hearing is gone. Car is running better and no more rattle.

 

[crimsondragon]

I've been running it for almost a year now. It's not urgent but you do want to get it fixed. I plan on fixing it when I do the turbo swap.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Well i can almost guarantee you will break another 3-4 more once you have to replace your turbo or exhaust manifold. Its not urgent bet get a good set of arp head studs when you do decide to do something about it.

James

 

[ricktb]

I had the same problem when I installed my tubular manifold. I think 2 of the studs broke off in the same fashion. When you are ready to fix it I recommend the following.

Remove the turbo manifold, and spray the stuck bolt with penetrating oil. Get a center punch and position the punch as close to the center of the stud as you can and with medium force hammer the punch once. With each hit, make sure the punch is in the same spot. This will help to loosen the stud from the surrounding threads, and create a divot to drill your extractor dead center later. Use some more oil, and maybe some more center punching, then break out the extractor. I personally used an extractor bit along with a cordless drill. I did have to remove my radiator to get it in there at the right angle. Also remember that the extractor will always turn counter clockwise, while drilling and extracting. If all goes well the stud should pop right out of there. If not maybe spray some more oil on it, let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow.

You may want to re-tap the holes(more oil), and purchase a new set of studs (and gasket), and use anti-seize compound on the threads when you go to reinstall the manifold.

(remember to cover the turbo inlet, exhaust outlets, alternator, and other areas from metal shavings. Also try to wipe off excess oil from the area, in case it pools up and starts a fire when you re-start the engine) I had no fire but LOTS of smoke for a good 4 hours, I think the oil pooled up in a heat sheild or something.

Be careful when tightening the studs since the head is aluminum and you can strip it out easy.

Good luck

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I had the same problem when I installed my tubular manifold. I think 2 of the studs broke off in the same fashion. When you are ready to fix it I recommend the following.

Remove the turbo manifold, and spray the stuck bolt with penetrating oil. Get a center punch and position the punch as close to the center of the stud as you can and with medium force hammer the punch once. With each hit, make sure the punch is in the same spot. This will help to loosen the stud from the surrounding threads, and create a divot to drill your extractor dead center later. Use some more oil, and maybe some more center punching, then break out the extractor. I personally used an extractor bit along with a cordless drill. I did have to remove my radiator to get it in there at the right angle. Also remember that the extractor will always turn counter clockwise, while drilling and extracting. If all goes well the stud should pop right out of there. If not maybe spray some more oil on it, let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow.

You may want to re-tap the holes, and purchase a new set of studs (and gasket) when you go to reinstall the manifold.

(remember to cover the turbo inlet, exhaust outlets, alternator, and other areas from metal shavings. Also try to wipe off excess oil from the area, in case it pools up and starts a fire when you re-start the engine) I had no fire but LOTS of smoke for a good 4 hours, I think the oil pooled up in a heat sheild or something.

good luck

Good suggestion. If i may add, after that is all said and done, make sure you buy a tap and die set for metric threads and tap the hole again. The last thing you need is a bad thread. AND TAKE YOUR TIME. Dont rush through the extracting the bolt out. The last thing you need while trying to drill into the stud is to drill right into the head.

James

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Here's the easy way to take those out: With the manifold off, take your mig welder and apply a bead of weld onto the top of the stud in short bursts. Make sure to get it in the center of the stud, and don't hold the trigger for more that a fraction of a second at a time. Between eash burst of weld give it a few seconds to cool (2or 3). This will prevent you getting a large uncontroled puddle of metal. What you should end up with is a series of narrow round beads standing on top of each other in a column. When you think you have enough to grab onto, grab it with a vise grip and twist. The cooling action of clamping the vise grip on will shrink the stud and it will unscrew like butta.

I do it all the time, and I approve this message.

 

[jimmybosox]

Hey guys, THANKS! This forum has helped me tremendously since I became a Talon owner. Getting good info/responses like this really helps everyone.

I don't see the need to replace my turbo or manifold anytime soon, so I guess I'll just wait until I have a few days free to work on this. I'm glad it's not an urgent issue. I don't have a welder, so the last response (which sounds like the best way to remove broken studs) is not an option.

The center punch and extractor sounds like a good option except for the lack of space to get a drill in at the correct angle. Found this link explaining how to remove the stud.

Untitled

If the holes end up needing to be re-tapped, I'd have a pro do that. Just not comfortable doing that myself...even with all the threads telling me how easy it is. (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/267280-how-use-helicoil.html)

Can anyone vouch for this stud kit? Forced Performance Turbochargers: Exhaust Manifold Stud & Nut Kit

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Those are just ebay knockoffs of oem i bet. How about these. Thats what i run.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - ARP Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold Stud Set: Mitsubishi Eclipse 6-Bolt

Those right there are amazing. You wont break them and its nice becuase installing and uninstalling are simple.

James

 

[PIMking]

Give me something that is "unbreakable" and I will break it!

 

[crensinivon]

If the bolt comes out clean with the extractor all your going to do with the tap is run it in to clean the threads just like a normal bolt. It really is that easy. If it gets tight, back it out half a turn and try it again.

 

[talonsteve25]

alright i broke a bolt off in the head trying to tighten the header a little while ago becuase it had a tiny exhaust leak. So now if i wanted to change my header what would i do to take thes bolts out there VERY fragile

 

[1992awdlaser]

Use lots of PB Blaster and some sort of torch. Spray PB Blaster starting a couple days before you plan to change it.